Cape Horn

            Sunrise 6:02 - sunset 21:22

History informs that in the 1500s, a number of explorers including Sir Frances Drake, sailed close to Cape Horn but it was not until the 17th century that the Cape was successfully navigated as an alternative route to the Strait of Magellan. In 1616, a Dutchman, Willem Schouten and his shipmaster successfully sailed around on board the Eendracht and the Hoorn - hence the name. Yet it took another 200 years for Antartica to be discovered even though it lies only 400 miles south of Cape Horn. 

Cape Horn is the southernmost headland of Tierra del Fuego archipelago of southern Chile. It marks the north edge of the Drake Passage, the strait between South America and Antarctica. In 1914, with the opening of the Panama Canal, the need to round the Cape was greatly reduced. 

Cape Horn marks where the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans collide. The waters here are particularly hazardous owing to strong winds, large waves, strong currents and icebergs. It had been quietly intimated that if a ship as large as the Eclipse got into difficulty in Antarctica, a rescue effort would be nigh impossible!!  

At 06:15, (Friday), we will approach Cape Horn and then the fun will begin. On the last voyage the ship tipped on its side and bottles of alcohol in the bars came crashing down such is the treachery of the waters at Cape Horn. Hopefully, we will not experience such drama! 

The alarm sounded at 05:50 (one must earn one’s trip to Antártida! - lots of early mornings), we awoke. From our verandah, I got my first glimpse of Cape Horn. Dressing quickly,  we adjourned to deck 16 to get a complete view of the Cape. 

The morning was bright and the sea very calm - a rare occurrence in these waters  - the Roaring 60s ensure the contrary most of the time as the Atlantic Ocean meets the Pacific but we are lucky! We spent 3 hours on deck. Initially it was dry, later rain fell and eventually the rain stopped. Surprisingly, it wasn’t too cold but after a couple of hours standing outside, it felt a little chilly! 

We docked close to the Cape for about 3 hours. We watched the as L’Austral’s passengers boarded zodiacs and make their way to the Cape, where they climbed the steps that led to the Naval Station, (Chile). 

(One of the guests moaned that maybe he should have spent a few more thousand US dollars and he could have been part of that voyage!) On the summit is a sculpture of an Albatross in commemoration of all the lives lost in an attempt to round Cape Horn!! 

Lighthouse and naval stations to left - albatross    memorial to right 

As we departed a heavy mist enveloped the area - were we lucky? 

The Chilean pilots who had steered us down the Beagle Channel disembarked here. 

On a previous voyage, the captain refused, for safety sake, to allow the pilots to disembark. They remained on board and cruised  into the Antarctic. They had never been there and were delighted with their good fortune!! They were dropped off in Argentina on the return voyage!   

We are now sailing the Drake Passage 

After breakfast, it was back to school with Mickylive, who gave us a an overview of the attempts to conquer the South Pole 

At 11:00, Dr Thom gave us an interesting and comprehensive talk on Shackleton’s refuge on Elephant Island but I will hold that until we arrive at Elephant Island on Sunday. 

It is so misty outside that visibility is down to c.3 metres. Later it cleared. We will arrive at Paradise Bay, c.04:00 tomorrow (Saturday), finally arriving in the Antarctic!! 

Til then dear friend adios, hasta luego!!