Sunday 17 February 2019

Cape Horn to Paradise Bay

A biologist, an historian and a map maker have been on board throughout, providing us with excellent, informative, daily seminars.  



We set sail from Cape Horn, across the Drake passage into the Scollard channel, which lies between Anvers island to the southwest and Brabant Island on the north east, connecting Dallmann Bay and Gerlache Strait in the Palmer archipelago. We arrived at noon at Paradise Bay/Harbour so named by the 19th century Whalers. 

I awoke at dawn. We attended a lecture on The Falklands/Malvinas  at 10:00. As it ended, there was an announcement that we had entered Antarctic waters.(60 degrees south latitude). We wrapped up and went outside. It was 0C but the sun shone and the water was calm. We are the few who experience Antarctica under these perfect conditions! 

The first iceberg came into view and for the next 12 hours we were overwhelmed. 



The vastness of the continent is breathtaking and we were experiencing only a small area.







As we progressed through the channel, the ship travelled extremely slowly to avoid the numerous icebergs that challenged our path. (10% only above the water line!)



The scenery was stunning. No words or photographs can possibly describe the landscape. One feels very privileged to have had this experience in such perfect conditions and so insignificant against the vast area that unfolds before us!



The blue colour is the consequence of compacted ice and it provides a contrast to the overall whiteness 



As we sailed the Scollard Channel, whales gave us spectacular displays. There were gasps from their audience as they performed spectacular leaps from the water. The other attraction were the penguins busily surfing the waters full of purpose !!! Our stateroom is on the port side (left side) and luckily this was where all the action was!
 
We briefly encountered one ship in the course of the day. 
 


There is a restriction on the number of ships that can visit the Antarctic. Celebrity are permitted two trip per annum. 

We finally arrived in Paradise Bay - the name aptly described the Bay. 


We went to starboard and admired the Bay. We were now at 64• 30’ S 62• 50’. We remained there for two hours marvelling at our surroundings! The sun shone so we donned sunscreen and shades. It was warm as we sunned ourselves on the veranda!! 

Paradise Bay is home to two naval bases: the Argentinian named after Almirante Brown, father of the Argentine Navy  - the Irishman we met in Buenos Aires and the Chilean Base named Gonzalez Videla, in honour of the first Chilean President to visit the Base. The latter is now inactive but two Englishmen spent a year in Paradise Bay, reportedly living in an abandoned whaling upturned boat, while studying Penguins !!









and then slowly the ship turned 



and we slowly sailed back via the Gerlache Strait: constantly altering course to avoid the numerous icebergs, which passed nearby. 



Perilously close - 10% above water and 90% below!!!


  
                   The blue hue of compacted ice



The afternoon sun continued to shine on our balcony so we could enjoy the scenery in comfort. 



As evening closes in, we continue sailing to Elephant Island.  



With the exception of a quick lunch, we had spent the entire day marvelling  at the wonders of nature. A perfect day. 


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