Wrap up !!

Today we set off to see La Boca. It is a rough, working class area of town and we were advised to be careful. 

I left my jewellery in the safe and we took bus 29 from nearby the hotel. Final stop -La Boca - home to the infamous Boca Junior football club - Maradona bring their most famous son. 

We alighted at the last stop.  There is an area in which the tourists congregate and beyond this small area one is advised not to venture. It was a very colourful  place, with most buildings painted in vivid colours. 

It has become somewhat of an artists quarter. Souvenir shops abound. 

From there, we took the 10 minute bus ride to San Telmo, the antiques district, with shops selling the most amazing antiques. It was once the residence of BA’s elite.  It is one of the oldest neighborhoods in BA but in 1871, with the outbreak of yellow fever, the wealthy fled northwards.  Latterly, the area has regained its splendour. 

On Sundays, there is a market in the square but today it was quiet.

Tonight we are meeting two Aussie ladies whom we met on the ship. We’re dining together at Dolita on the river. This is the old port which was renovated in the 1990s and now has multi-storey apartments together with restaurants. We took a taxi but the taxi driver couldn’t find the restaurant - he went around in circles .... our friends had a similar experience! The first poor experience of taxis in BA 

We finally reached the restaurant. The food was average, the wine acceptable and the service woeful! 

We taxied together back to our hotels, without further mishap. 

It was a balmy evening and the Woman’s (pedestrian) Bridge looked resplendent in pink. It’s design is said to represents a couple dancing the Tango (invented in BA.) The mast represents the man and the curved silhouette the woman. 

This morning, we had intended to visit Museo de Beaux Artes. Inaugurated in 1896, it is one of the most important art museums in Latin America. It houses the largest Argentinian art collection and in addition features works by Picasso, Renoir, Monet, Rembrandt and Rubens. As we ariived we noticed a crowd outside. We alighted the taxi only to discover that the museum had closed today until April. One woman informed me that she had checked their internet site and there was no reference to the closing.!! No option but  to taxi back to the hotel.!! 

This evening (Tuesday), we depart for Frankfurt at 18:05 and finally arrive Dublin 18:00 (Wednesday) We’re 3 hours behind here!! 

Just a word about inflation Since the 1990s,  annual inflation has been running at 25-30% per annum. This MONTH alone (February), it is said to reach 2.9% !! Little wonder prices hadn’t changed much between 2003 and 2019. 

A great trip - we were blessed in Antártida  as ships a day after us had choppy seas in Cape Horn and fog on Elephant Island! There was an expedition in the region trying to locate Shackleton’s sunken ship Endurance. A manless sub was sent in and lost and the mother ship had to abandon the search. 

A trip to Antártida is all in the lap of the gods!!!  

Buenos Aires

Last night we said good bye to the staff and our fellow passenger - the American couple were remaining on board for a further 10 days to Rio and back to BA. I could not take another 10 days on board. The voyage was very enjoyable but there’s a limit!! The other Aussi couple were staying in BA also. Two other Aussie ladies, whom we had met at lunch a couple of times, invited us to have dinner with them in BA. They’re a hoot - two lecturers from the University of New South Wales. So we’ve decided to link up. It should be a good night. 

Arrived at 07:00 this am - I awoke to the banging of containers. BA is a huge container port. Our departure time was 9:45 and the check out unlike the check- in was faultless. Argentinian Emigration has been cleared whilst we were on board. Our bags were collected the night before and were ready for us at the customs’ entrance. 

Once outside,  there were numerous taxis charging treble the fare we had paid from the hotel to Port on departure. Taxi man here are honest and this overpricing was official!! 

We took a taxi to the Tango de Mayo (the hotel we had stayed in on arrival). However, rooms weren’t  ready as check out is noon. We left our baggage and decided to walk up Av de Mayo to the pedestrian shopping street. We were a little anxious as we had all our cask and passports with us and pickpocketing tourists is a major hazard. We had heard so many examples while on board.!! 

Florida Street - the Main shopping street had numerous boarded up shops. 

The only impressive shopping is Gallerias Pacificos, where  all international designers retail their products. 

and a Michelangelo type frescoes to booth 

We found Claridge’s Hotel, where we had stayed in 2003.

Reviews suggested ‘that it had become jaded’ and as we had such happy memories of our previous visits in 2003, we didn’t wish to be disappointed. We walked in. It still had its Victorian charm with the dark wood and stained glass windows - alas afternoon tea is no longer served as it was with the white linen table cloths and silver tea service!!

Tired, we taxied back to the hotel, received room key and are now planning dinner tonight.  

We walked to El Tortino, the oldest coffee shop in Buenos Aires, frequented by painters, poets and writers who as the original owner volunteered spent nothing but gave the cafe an ambience. 

A queue had developed outside (partially manufactured) It took us about 20 minutes to gain entrance but as you can see it was worth it. We ordered two coffees and two sandwiches - but we got the equivalent of two sandwiches each - portion control does not operate in this country!! 

We returned to the hotel, rested and prepared to go to dinner - to La Estancia. The city had come to life - the siesta was over. When we walked to El Tortino earlier, the streets were s deserted. !! 

Tonight, the Obelisk constructed in 1930 to commemorate the city’s centenary was bathed in its evening glory 

My Guide tells me that we are in La Estancia  in 2003 but I have no such recollection!! 

                      The Parrilla (the barbecue) 

En route back to the hotel, we sought a coffee. 36 Billiards looked interesting - it has a history as a school of  billiard training and such notables as Garcia  Lorca patronised the establishment  as he resided in a hotel across the road  on Ave de Mayo. Every establushment here appears to have an interesting history in BA !! 

At Sea - Montevideo.

Another day at sea and a relaxing day by the pool with a little retail therapy to booth. Tomorrow morning we dock in Montevideo, Uruguay. 

According to the Lonely Planet Guide (published 2002) and used on our visit in 2003, Uruguay is a small rural country. Its capital is Montevideo. On our last visit to Argentina, we crossed the Rio de la Plata to Colon  but didn’t visit Montevideo, though it lies on the east bank of the Rio de la Plata (River of Silver) directly opposite Buenos Aires.  

South American countries have endured numerous recessions; on our previous visit Argentina had just emerged from a recession and it is the measure of the country’s economy that prices haven’t increase since 2003!! 

Montevideo was established in 1726 by the Spanish in response to Portugal’s growing influence in the area. Interestingly, most of the residents came from the Canary Islands. 

The point of interest is the Cuidad Vieja (Old Town), designed in a colonial grid pattern adjacent to the port , once surrounded by protective walls. My 2002 guide informs me (I sound like Michael Palin) that efforts are afoot to restore the Cuidad Vieja. We shall see? 

The country’s economic stagnation (in 2002, the date of the Guide’s publication, the US $1 = 14 pesos and today US $1=32 peso)  has resulted in modern Montevideo’ s buildings centred on Ave Independencia, sporting a worn out appearance and resembling utilitarian structures reminiscent of Communist Eastern Europe.  

I was awoken by the clanking of cranes - goods were being loaded on the the vessel. It takes a lot to feed 4,000 people and this voyage does not end in BA but continues to Rio for the Carnaval!! Then it finally returns to BA. I must admit that though I’d love to see Rio and the Carnaval, (very keen offers were available to continue the voyage to Rio), 14 nights was enough for me. I’m ready to go ashore tomorrow morning!! 

We crossed from the port to the Cuidad Vieja (Old Town) Here we discovered a Hop on/Hop off Bus. We decided to take it as the new part of town was some distance away and the temperature was in the late 20s. The only disadvantage was that if one alighted at a stop, the next bus was scheduled for 40/60 minutes. We thus stayed on board and the two hour trip took us through all parts of the city 

The Cuidad Vieja appeared to have improved but many of the beautiful 19th century buildings are somewhat delapidated. 

In fairness, to restore all these to their former glory would be beyond the country’s resources.

The market has been restored and now boasts fine restaurants serving Urugian beef and fine local wines. The market was buzzing. 

Traditional entertainers grace the streets of the old town. 

We passed the Neo classically designed Solis Theatre on one corner of Plaza Independencia, opened in 1856, closed for renovations which stalled because of US$38 million shortfall! It is now open.  

The newer part of the city is well planned with many parks adorning the area adorned with impressive sculptures. 

             Where the Papal Mass was held 

New shopping centres and international hotels are investing in the city and are located in the area around Plaza Independencia.

There is a marked difference between the wealthy suburbs and those less fortunate who live in Soviet type multi storey tower blocks.

In the 1930, an experimental garden village was built and today it is a haven for the middle classes. 

The bus drove past the legislature 

- a very impressive building and down to the beach where the locals were enjoying the Saturday afternoon sun 

and on to what we think was the railway station 

The bus returned us to the point of origin close by the port.  It was an excellent trip as it gave us a very good, overall impression of the city. 

Having alighted the bus, we went in search of the oldest cafe in Montevideo, opened in 1877.

It did not disappoint - very beautiful internally. 

We continued to Plaza Constitucion with the oldest church in Montevideo gracing one of its sides 

 

 

We returned yo the old city and boarded once again. We on our last leg back to BA as we wave Montevideo adios 

At Sea - Puerto Madryn

Yesterday, I spent in bed recovering from a cold I got as I waited in the rain for 40 minutes for a Tender to return to the ship. 

We have just docked at Puerto Madryn.

There is an eight hour sightseeing tour to Peninsula Valdes (more whales, penguins, sea birds and elephant seals) but we declined as it involved six hours of driving! I might also add that Celebrity tours are ridiculously expensive and most passengers try to organise their own!

Today is Valentine’s Day! Every restaurant had a display 

Tonight, couples may renew their marital vows at the ‘Sweethearts at Sea’ party on the open seas under the stewardship of our Greek Captain Leo and get a certificate to booth! It is claimed that it will be the largest vow renewal at sea!! In addition, we’re  promised a very special dinner and  the shops are pushing their wares!! 

Today the majority of passengers will walk from the port to the old town (10 minutes) and explore its elegant boulevards, stately buildings and  sandy beachfront according to my guide.  Puerto Madryn is one of the fastest growing cities in Patagonia. The Irishman is again recognised - Admiralte Brown Boulevard, one of the playa (beach) promenades bear his name. Nowhere however, is there a reference to his birthplace. 

We spent two hours in Puerto Madryn located on the very beautiful Golfo Nuevo with it extensive Rambla. 

At the pier there was a couple spontaneously dancing the Tango!

The elegant boulevards and stately buildings failed to materialise!! It reminded me of a North America city with little to recommend itself in terms of architecture! 

The outstanding building in the Puerto was the railway station The line closed in 1961 and the building now sports a railway museum. A very informative lady gave us the history of the town and its railway. Puerto Madryn was a settlement set up by  a group of Welsh people in 1865. 

They arrived to find no drinking water and would not have survived but for the friendliness of the natives,  who provided for them. Initially, they lived in caves but later built the settlement. What brave people they were  to take on such an arduous journey not knowing what awaited them!! 

We returned to the ship and having had a drink on the lawn at the Sunset Bar, 

we spent the remainder of the afternoon at the pool. 

The weather has warmed considerably c.35 today. 

Tonight we were entertained to Broadway hits. Captain Leo presided over the renewal of vows 

and all ladies were presented with roses - with cakes available to all!  

Lobster for dinner. After dinner, there was a party in the Sunset Lounge but we didn’t attend. Too tired - it’s hard work cruising!