At Sea 3

This morning I again awoke with the rising sun peeking through an aperture in the curtain.Today, we decided to have a ‘lie-in’ until 09.00. There is another seminar on penguins at 09.00 but we’ll skip that!! 

Going out on our veranda, one could see the ocean’s 

increasing swell and the drop in temperature. The sky is cloudy and the sun has retired! To date we had been wearing summer clothes but today is a day for the winter woolies!! 

After breakfast we adjourned to the Eclipse Theatre to hear MickyLive give a talk on our journey into Ushuaia (Deep Bay - Yaghan language). Historically,  Europeans’ only interest was not in the Fuegians but in finding a route to the spice islands in the East. Later Charles Darwin’s aim was to civilise the people- the ‘most abject and miserable creatures I ever saw’ (1834). 

                                   Ushuaia

The British missionaries arrived 1871 and the Fuegians died of European diseases - there is one full blooded Fuegian remaining and she speaks the language. 

The Argentinians wanted to take control so Argentinian teachers arrived. In 1881, a penal colony modelled on Port Arthur (Tasmania), was set up and in 1896 - a prison was constructed for Re-Offenders and political prisoners. The Gold Rush followed. 

 

It appears the weather will be 20C when we arrive in Ushuaia.!! Such are the vagaries of weather here.  We’re advised that it may be snowing as we enter the Southern  Ocean. We will sail up the Beagle Channel into Ushuaia, and will dock at 09.00. We will  join Mickylive at 05.00 to see dawn and sunrise  as we sail up the Channel. The ship will spend the day there and sail back out again at 21.00 into Antarctic waters.     

After lunch, we attended a concert by Synergy,  professionally trained twin violinists from Pennsylvania. It was spectacular. 

They started their career busking on the streets. This was their first concert on Celebrity. They are leaving the ship in Ushuaia but I forecast more engagements with Celebrity such was the enthususiastic response from the audience. 

Afternoon tea beckoned and so we engaged!! Later I walked Deck 14 to attempt to burn off the calories!!  It was very breezy and I was nearly elevated at the ship’s front. 

Others were relaxing in the Solarium

 I saw my first albatross, gracefully flying across the sky but unfortunately, I was unable to capture it on camera! 

A pre dinner concert by Daniel Bouchet, an Argentinian of French extraction was excellent. His method of guitar playing was amazing - the emanating sounds impressive. 

Dinner and early to bed. We’re to be up at 0430 to see the dawn and sunrise at 05.08 as we sail through the Beagle Channel to dock at Ushuaia. 

 

 

At Sea 2

After dinner last evening, we went to the officers soirée. We met a lovely officer from St Andrews, Scotland, who is in charge of Human Resources. He rang Kieron, the Irish officer. Kieron arrived and we chatted. He brought us to meet his parents and girlfriend. We had a long chat with Kieron, who  had trained at the Maritime College, Cork. His  parents got a call two days prior to  sailing to say that there was a spare cabin, so they quickly arranged a flight to BA - one of the perks of being an officer’s parents. Kieron informed us that on present weather predictions, we might be as lucky as last week’s passengers and receive similar favourable weather - but there are no guarantees - the weather can change in an instant. He has promised CC a trip to the Bridge.  It is a restricted area! 

We attended the show thereafter. Belle Voci, two English sopranos were fantastic singers and most entertaining. They were recently placed 4th, if I recall correctly, in The Voice of Britain. Originally from the north of England, one was the waitress and the other the chef in their hometown pub. They decided to quit the day job and I think they will go far, such is their talent. 

Sailing along the shallow (250ft) Continental Shelf -         as a result one is aware it the roll.!!!

This morning we attended three seminars at 9,10 and 11. The first was an interesting talk by the environmental officer on board - a very capable Italian, young lady.  She outlined the history of the attempts to safeguard the preserve the Antarctic for future generations, with the first meeting of concerned parties in 1959 and the subsequent establishment of IATTA. The body now controls access to the Antarctic. Our ship, the  Eclipse is the largest ship to sail these waters and only two voyages per annum are permitted. Ours is the second and last of 2019.  She also gave us some insight into the recycling and waste disposal that takes place on board ship - a tall order with 4,000 on board including crew and passengers.!!! 

At 10, we were again highly entertained by MickyLive, outlining the topography of Ushuaia, our first destination on Thursday.

We’ve been in Usuhuia before - in 2003, when I recall skiing in the Andes, vaguely recall boarding a catamaran in the Beagle Channel, but have no memory of Tierra de Fuego National Park or the the train to the End of the Earth!! The vagaries of the human brain!!! 

At 11, Dr. Tom gave us a seminar on Penguins, Sea Lions and Sea Elephants I had no idea there were so many species of Penguin!!

The quality of the seminars is excellent - on board are historians, geographers and biologists who take the seminars. On arrival in Ushuaia, we will be experts and capable of recognizing the various species of wildlife. 

Lunch followed. Today, we shared a table for 8, a young Dutch couple who work for KLM and have taken 6 months off to travel. Another young couple from Texas were here with an Art group. Each day, the latter had lectures and met various artists. He was a very unassuming guy but when questioned he admitted to owning a few Picassos and a few Old Masters ! He was a guest of an Art Gallery - all expenses paid but as he put it - he’s probably already paid for it. On leaving, I advised him not to buy too many but he replied that it was too late for that!!! The final couple were Indian, living in Toronto  His uncle had taken him to Canada to attend Univerity. Returning to India  after college, his marriage was arranged and he is still married after 48 years.! 

On our return from lunch, the captain made an announcement that a passenger needed medical assistance and that an Argentinian Coastguard helicopter would land on the ship’s helipad to take the patient to hospital. We commenced sailing closer to the coast, quite a feat as we are already in very shallow water. We were asked not to film the event in deference to the patient and access to the ship’s decks was restricted during the 

Tonight we attended the Rock show, a group of  Italian musicians and dancers it was truly a  professional presentation. 

Afterwards, we attended the Captain’s soirée in the skyboard lounge. The sun was setting. 

Dinner and we retired to face another challenging day tomorrow!!! 

At Sea 1

I awoke at dawn. 

Later there was a pleasant sunrise 

The sea was calm. Last week’s voyage was the most successful the Ship’s Captain had ever experienced in his 6 years sailing this route. Weather is all important if the ship is to successfully land at its various locations. Nothing is guaranteed on this voyage - it all depends on the weather! 

Breakfast was followed by a lecture on Charles Darwin at 9. It was interesting in that I learned a little more of Darwin. 

Lunch followed and then another presentation entitled ‘An Antarctic Preview’ by the very entertaining and informative MickyLive. If he is correct the voyage will be spectacular - beyond my wildest expectations.!!

A little retail therapy followed. There is too much emphasis on sales on board. We met a very nice assistant from Gorey, Wexford. She has been employed by Celebrity for the last five years. At 28, she volunteered, she  has travelled the world with the exception of Africa. One of the officers, she advised  is from Cork and his parents are also on board but as yet I haven’t heard the Cork accent. 

In the shop too was a lawyer from Texas, who collects legal memorabilia and had a museum attached to his law office and among the exhibits is a Queen’s Counsel’s wig!! 

Lunch at 13.00 in the Main Dining Room. It is also available at the Ocean Cafe - where food is available 24/7!! I like to share a table at lunch to meet my fellow passengers but at breakfast we prefer a table for 2! At lunch we were joined by two very pleasant couples  from South Carolina, who had recently visited Ireland. Prior to lunch, one gentleman asked if we’d mind thanking the Lord for his gifts? He then proceedsed to say Grace. They did not drink and it reminded us of our trip on Route 66. Travelling through the Southern Baptist States, many restaurants were ‘family restaurants’ ie no alcohol served.!!  After a day driving, one had to search out a glass of wine!  We discussed Brexit and Trump. They hadn’t voted for Trump but did acknowledge that he had turned the country away from its recent leftist leanings!!

At 14.30, we were back in the theatre for the last lecture of the day ‘Cape Horn and Famous Passages’. The lecture was interesting but the presentation left a little to be desired... I noticed some attendees nodding off!! 

 

Tonight is the Officers’ Soirée followed by dinner and then......

Buenos Aires - boarding Celebrity Eclipse

This morning we commenced with a healthier breakfast than had been on offer in Mar del Plata (Sea of Silver). On our return from the cruise, we have three days before we depart for home. On our last visit in 2003 (not 2006 as previously stated), we stayed at Claridges, a British style hotel which we really enjoyed, wspecially E and J. The Hotel served complimentary afternoon tea, which would vie in reputation with Claridges of London. However, reviews stated that it was a little ’tired’ so for our return visit to BA, we rebooked Tango del Mayo, a Hotel which deserves its 9 rating on the booking web sites. 

As boarding was at 14.00, we had the  morning to reacquaint ourselves with BA. The hotel is in an excellent location. Leaving the hotel, we walked to Casa Rosada, the President’s home. President Sarmiento commissioned the building during his term of office in the late 19th century. En route, we crossed Avenida de Julio 9 - the widest street I’ve ever seen. It consists of at least 16 lanes where is situated the famous white Obelisco, where local soccer fans celebrate victory. On our last visit here, our son was very anxious to attend a soccer match.

The Boca Juniors were playing. The hotel arranged the attendance. For their safety, father and son had to be brought to the stadium an hour before the match commenced and had to wait until the stadium cleared before they were released!! The tension, it appears, was enormous and water cannons lined the pitch lest some over anxious fan attempt to run the pitch!! 

We arrived at Casa Rosada 

The origin of the red colour of  Casa Rosada is in dispute - was it an attempt to unite the white Unitarians and the red Federalists by blending the colours or more likely was it painted in cow’s blood, a practice at that time?

From its balcony, Juan and Eva Peron and General Galtieri among others, convened the residents of BA to encourage support. Madonna, as Eva Peron in Evita, sang from this same balcony. 

We returned via Calle Roque Saenz Pena to Place de la Republica, 

the location of the Obelisco, walked up Ave de Julio 9 and turned into Ave Mayo, past our hotel to Palacio de Congreso, modeled on Washington’s Capitol, completed in 1906 at double the original estimate (where have we heard that before???) 

In the Plaza, in front of the Palacio is Monumento a Dos Congresos, honouring the two parliaments who achieved Argentinian Independence in 1810 and 1816. The white steps represent the high Andes and the fountain represents the Atlantic Ocean!! 

We returned to the hotel and took a taxi to the cruise terminal.  

We waited an hour to check in. Celebrity should streamline the procedure. Finally, we were checked in by a young girl who was also very complimentary about the Irish. She had visited Ireland with a friend two years ago and would love to work there! 

We sailed at 17.00. We were escorted out of the port 

past the busy wharves with their large containers stacked high, 

leaving the BA skyline behind. 

We went to our cabin. The bags taken from us on arrival were at the cabin door. After a safety drill, we adjourned to the informal Ocean Cafe for a late lunch. The format and ship’s layout is the same as on our previous Celebrity cruise. 

We returned to unpack. Prior to dinner, we had an aperitif to the music of a strings’orchestra. One is seated for dinner. One can choose a table for one’s self if desired. We decided to share. I was delighted with our table - two Aussies from Melbourne and a couple of Philippine origin from Chicago. We had a very enjoyable dinner. 

More tomorrow ...... 

To Buenos Aires - Buenos Aires - Celebrity Cruise

Chaos !! 

Chaos was the only word to describe the bus station at Mar Del Plata. 

The bus station was huge and the digital display didn’t reflect the reality of what was happening on the ground! There was no reference to our bus which was due to depart at 14.30. 14.30 passed and no mention of Flecha bus - we asked various people, who were very obliging but were as wise as we were! Finally, we were told that the bus was delayed - no mention on the screen!  It arrived at 15.10 and quickly departed for BA. I had thought we’d be hiring a car as we had to be in BA the next day to board ship!  

The bus was very comfortable. The seats were described as demi cama (semi bed) - a seat with support under one’s feet - one was almost perpendicular! We travelled through the countryside with estancias as far as the eye could see!  

Cattle and to a lesser extent sheep and horses abounded.

Above the  rail track to BA!!! For the most part, the road followed the track ! 

It was very arid as we quitted Mar Del Plata, but as we approached  BA it became less arid and the vegetation became lush. 

Five and a quarter hrs later, we arrived at the BA bus terminal, close to the port. It was a very scenic approach along the Rio del Plato

                   An extensive and busy port 

but as we approached the bus station, there was a favela - the living conditions of its inhabitants were unbelievable - a makeshift of unplanned dwellings. 

We taxied to Tango de Mayo hotel c15mins away. 

The receptionist was charm itself. She informed us that the Irish were her favourite guests (we are so laidback and polite, it appears!)  It is a boutique hotel, originally the Singer (of sewing machine fame) offices,  later a university and laterly a hotel with intermittent periods of abandonment. Luckily, all its features were in tact and it has been sensitively restored. We were upgraded us to a fabulous room. 

As we hadn’t eaten since breakfast, on enquiry, our receptionist suggested we dine at Chiquilin on Sarmiento, a 10 minute walk from the hotel. It was a local Parilla, buzzing with atmosphere on that Saturday evening. Interestingly, it was mentioned in the 2004 Guide Book we are using and it obviously hadn’t changed , just as the Guide described! 

Mar del Plata - Buenos Aires.

Last night we decided to eat locally and chose an Italian trattoria close by. A large proportion of the population is of Italian descent. It was quite full when we arrived at 20.30 (restaurants don’t open for dinner until 20.00). Reservations were being checked.??? Many were locals known to the staff. We were shown to a table and the waiter called the owner when we were selecting from the menu. 

The house speciality was pasta and boy was it good!! CC had an unusual pasta, one I’ve never seen before and it was the most delicious pasta I’ve ever tasted! I chose Ravioli which was also delicious. The portions here are of US standard and I couldn’t finish. A bottle  of recommended Malbec completed a fine meal. 

Our Fecha bus (there are numerous bus companies- we chose at random) departs at 14.30 from the train/bus station and we will arrive in BA at 19.45. The train trip was of equal duration. 

We set off to see the cathedral in Plaza Colon. 

It is of neo Gothic origin The spectacular tiles came from England and the chandelier from France.

As we entered, we noticed a mesh below the roof a mash to protect worshippers from falling pieces of masonry. In a country plagued by recessions, it is possibly beyond their resources to have it repaired. 

Plaza Colon was surrounded by stalls but many were unoccupied. 

and the Plaza also supported a rare old building Teatre Colon

From here we followed the pedestrianised San Martin to the sea and from there returned to our hotel, Hotel Sennac in Calle Rioja, a very convenient location adjacent to the city centre. 

Mar Del Plata

Would you believe - no train until Tuesday.!!

The ticket office opened punctually at 17.30 - a queue had been forming from 15 minutes before. It takes a good 5 -10 minutes to buy a ticket as one has to surrender one’s passport and details are noted manually - the red tape here  is incredible! Finally arriving at the counter, we were informed that all trains were booked up until Martes (Tuesday) !!! By then we must be on the high seas. So our only option is to take a bus (5.5hrs) to BA! We chose seats on the upper deck to get a good view of the countryside. The agent spoke no English but went to great pains to explain the ticket details and where the bus stop was located, speaking Spanish slowly to help me understand.!! 

We returned to the hotel. I was exhausted so we skipped dinner and retired. We had fitfully slept on the flight so I was asleep by 21.00 hrs! 

I awoke refreshed. A buffet breakfast consisted of mainly orange juice and pastries of every known variety - the waistline will expand before we ever hit the high seas!  

This morning we are going to explore Mar Del Plata What we’ve seen so far would jar the eye !! At the turn of the 20th century the resort was a retreat for the wealthy of BA. Lack of planning in the 1960s has resulted in a sprawling mass jungle.  

with little to recommend it in terms of architecture. 

The area continues to be popular but the wealthy have migrated to Pinamar or Punta Del Este (Uruguay). 

The first Europeans, the Jesuits,  arrived  here  to evangelize the Southern Pampas Indians. Nothing remains of their efforts except a body of water named Laguna de Los Padres. The Portuguese followed a century later but beset by economic problems in the 1860s, sold out to Patricio Peralta Ramos, who founded Mar Del Plata, industrialized it and established the resort,  in whose honour the coast road is named. 

This morning we walked along the coast. We walked the portion (its total length is 32km) described as the most interesting from Ramos Boulevard to Torreón Del Monje, passing the Casino (closed and not very  impressive, the Hermitage hotel and came across  the statue of Admiral Brown, an Irishman from Wexford, who founded the Argentinian navy.  

We  had a coffee at the Torreón Del Monje. 

The area is lined with public and private beaches. In the private beaches umbrellas abound and in addition something akin to  old bathing huts  now supplied  with tables and chairs to avoid the sun. Wisely, very few people sat directly under the sun!! 

From there we took a taxi to the Puerto ((Port). The area abounds with restaurants serving fish from the boats, which come to shore c 17.00 hrs each evening and sell their catch to the surrounding shops  and restaurants. 

We chose El Timon for lunch and had a most wonderful fishy lunch consisting of  garlic prawns and a salad of fish comprising of more prawns, mussels, calamari and other unfamiliar fish together with a bottle of Chablis and water for €30. (Apologies I forgot to take photos!). 

We were last in Argentina in August 2006 and we are using the guide book we had used then. At that time Argentina was emerging from a severe economic collapse and yet again the same is true today. Amazingly, there is little difference in the prices then and now!!! Though the hotels are booked out, the restaurants are practically empty. At the height of the season, the restaurants are advertising 25% discount and this was deducted from our bill. To date we have found everyone, including taxi men very honest and all are delighted  to receive a gratuity. 

We taxied back to the hotel and it is now siesta time! 

Tomorrow, we leave and take the bus back to Buenos Aires.