This morning we set out for L’Hospitalet (hospital), a nearby hamlet - a 15 minute walk along a tree sheltered pathway, with spectacular views of the Chateau, the Sanctuary and the medieval town
Chateau with its spire - centre the Sanctuary - below
the medieval village.
On arrival at L’Hopitalitet, the pilgrims prepared for the last trip to visit the shrine of Our Lady of Rocamadour.
We took the path from here down to the medieval village passing through its gate
and its medieval street.
The medieval town is now sporting shops selling local products - pride of place in the display is their goat’s cheese, which, last night, I rated exceptional on a cheese board. It was truly creamy and delicious - cafes abound.
Through the town came a train carrying children and their parents
Later as we lunched on a terrace overlooking the ravine with no support beneath, we heard some excitement in the street outside
It appeared to be the junior version of the Tour de France.
The group of youths on the ramparts were spraying the cyclists with water. Unfortunately, my French isn’t up to understanding what it was all about. Later I discovered
After lunch, we decided to climb the 216 steps to the Sanctuary.
You might think us foolish in the height of the summer heat (28*) but the pilgrims climbed the steps on their knees!!
The Sanctuary was an amazing place. Luckily, J commenced chatting to a group of volunteers who wanted to talk about Irish rugby and the fact that we have two anthems! One volunteer took us under his wing. He was a doctor who was now training to be a priest with the Order now operating the churches there - never heard of the order. The Benedictines were there in the past.
Tradition had it that originally a hermit lived in the caves here. In the early 12th century a small church was built and later pilgrims started to arrive, once a miracle was proclaimed here in 1148. It is on the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostella
There are 7 Churches there. Usually there are only 3 open but our guide had us piggyback on a French tour while he explained the significance of each church to us. The first
was a small church with a baptismal font where the pilgrims renewed their vows and depicted on the walls were some of the renowned visitors to the Sanctuary, namely Henry 11 of England and his French wife, Elenor of Acquitaine.
Next the altar devoted to fact that sailors have been saved from the sea by the Madonna, in the shape of a ship inside, then a church with an altar made of gold, then a small church hewn into the rock - a refuge from the noonday sun, followed by the cathedral, the sixth the Black Madonna.
(it appears there is a reference to Mary being black in the Bible - where she says, our guide informed us, that she was black outside but beautiful inside. In this chapel, high above the nave is a bell without any means of ringing it and yet it rings from time to time - the last time in 2010!! There is no pattern to its ringing!! When I suggested to our guide that it might be on a windy day - he gave me a wry swile!!
On the exterior were paintings dating from 12th century
We were invited to write in a book left for visitors - our guide informed us that one person wrote that she had tried numerous times unsuccessfully to have children. After visiting the Black Madonna on three occasions, she had triplets.
Finally, we visited the only 12th century church to survive the Huguenot rampage of the area in the 16th century. As was hewn into the rock it was difficult to destroy On the exterior were painting of the Annunciation in colour dating from 12th century. They survive because they have not been exposed to the sun or rain and were in extraordinarily good condition
Finally, we climbed more steps to discover the small, unadorned church so different from all the others.
We bade farewell to our guide, as we gave a contribution to the sanctuary. As we were about to leave, another trainee priest chatted to us - an American - a native of Florida.!!
Now two options were available to reach the Chateau at the top and our nearby hotel. J took the Ascendure (lift) while I decided to walk along the upwardly winding footpath as I passed the Stations of the Cross!!
One of the stations was located at every twist in the path.
Near the end of the path was the place where Jesus’s body is seen being tended by the women after being taken down from the cross
and finally the Cross
and as seen last night in the sunset
From there, I went to complete my journey at the Chsteau. There was an entrance charge (the only one) €2 but cash only and access was denied me without the cash!!!
I’ll check it out in the morning before we depart for Figueres.
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