Dublin via London - San Pedro, near Marbella, Spain

We departed from the ferry terminal at 0800hrs. We arrived 31/2 hours later at Holyhead and drove to London. 

The weather was misty and raining as we arrived in London. The car's sat nav was taking us to the centre of London so we had to exit to M23 which encircles London and finally arrived that evening at Jury's Doyle in Croydon. 

The next day Sunday, we had a

luncheon appointment at the Wolesley with second son and his girlfriend. It was a very enjoyable meal - the venue to be recommended. 

On Monday we set off for the Chunnel. It is a fantastic service - 35 minutes and one arrives in Calais. We drove to Beaumont sur Sartre and stayed the night at Logis Barque in the centre of the small village, where we met two bikers from the UK - homeward bound. 

Tuesday, as we have only one driver, as a consequence of my having fallen and broken my humerous the week before, we decided that we would not make the Spanish border! 

We decided to stay in Cognac. We booked into the Ibis - plenty of free parking across the road. I thought that the town of Cognac would be very touristy. On our Rhone valley trip last  Easter, we visited among other wineries Chateau Neuf du Pape, which exuded tourist hype! However, Cognac displayed no such traits. It was a lovely French town. We ate at La Maison - a restaurant I would highly recommend - chosen on the recommendation of a friend I'd trust with culinary recommendations.  It's situated just off the main square. It deserves a Michelin star. Two amuse bouche , followed by a very generous portion of fois gras for CC and an avocado and grapefruit for me - both delicious. The main course was lamb for CC and salmon poached in a vegetable broth for moi Deliciouse!! The meal was completed by two cafe gourmand. We had a bottle of Cote de Blaye to drink - all for €92 !! Meal €27 pp - Guilbaud or Chapter 1 standard  !  

 

Next day, Wednesday, we took a tour of the Martel brandy house, founded in 1713 - sold to Seagrams in 2001and later to Pinot Ricard. It was a excellent tour (we heard many are gimmicky) Camus is the only family owned house remaining in Cognac but we hadn't time to seek it out. 

After lunch, we departed for St Jean de Luz, where tomorrow we are to take a train La Rhune into the Pyrenees. It is a private venture - the station c. 4km from St Jean de Luz. St Jean de Luz is a seaside resort - the volume of traffic was enormous. To find a hotel with parking might be a problem. Checking the Internet,we chose Goeland - a 3 star in the town. Unbelievably, they had a room and ample parking minutes  from the beach, down a rather spectacular stairway. 

We ate again at a different La Maison. We were lucky as s number of attempts elicited a response that we would have to wait 1/2 hour and we didn't fancy that.! Sardines for CC - large and flavoursome and for me Moules a la Creme - delicious. We retreated back to the hotel via the staircase. 

Today Thursday, we departed St Jean de Luz, having enjoyed a typical French breakfast.  We were heading for La Rhune, where a private railway whisks one (maybe whisk is too strong a word) at 9 km per hour to the first summit of the Pyrenees! The journey takes 35 minutes each way. 

As we approached La Rhune, there were cars parked up to 2 km from the railway station. We had been advised that parking was a problem but not this! We continued on and entered the car park - not a hope a of a space and the ticket queue numbered over 100!!! 

We continued past the town and the cars continuously parked on the other side of the town as they were on our approach! I was wondering whether we would ever get a seat as, though the train departed every 40 minutes, it is August, when the French holiday! 

We turned and drove back towards the town. We decided to check the car park again and luckily, there were a number of spaces now available - in our absence, a train must have returned. We parked and CC went to purchase the tickets. It took 40 minutes. The queue was horrendous.! Finally we got tickets for the 1450 hrs train! 

So here I am in a cafe whiling 2 1/2 hours away until our departure! I hadn't intended to do a blog but as I have been sitting  about since we parked at noon, I thought I'd record my thoughts! 

I boarded the train, carefully guarding my injured arm from the maddening crowd!!  The scenery was spectacular as the train slowly climbed the 905 metres to the summit. 

On arrival, we were in Spain, in the Basque Country with a wonderful panorama looking down on the coast at St Jean de Luz 

and on the other side into the Pyrenees.  It was spectacular and the weather was warm but with a nice cooling breeze. 

I'm here sitting on the steps that lead down to the return train - it's touch and go whether we'll make this one or have to wait for the next!!!

On the trip down, the train behind gives an idea of the circuitous route the train must take. 

On the way we met another train plying it's way to the summit. Even at  this late hour the train was full. 

Along the route I saw the famous, wild pony that inhabits  region. 

We had boarded the 1650 and arrived back st base at 1730.  

On our return, we set the sat nav for San Sebastián - a mere 47 km away. We arrived st the hotel and on the advice of our very helpful receptionist took a bus downtown to the old district, to Calle 31 de Agosto 

where the best of the tapa bars are located. 

We selected La Cepa.

We dined on the best tapas I've ever eaten 

together with Protos Crianza - my favourite Spanish wine. The atmosphere was fantastic but the crowd was thinning as we departed at 2200,  they dine early here in the north unlike their southern cousins!! 

Athens

This morning I awoke at  0600hrs and the sun hadn't risen. When I peered out the window at 0800 hrs, there had obviously been a heavy shower - welcome to reduce the humidity!

As we left the hotel at 0900hrs, the sun had risen. If one wishes to climb to the Acropolis, one should rise early and visit as soon as it opens - check opening hours - they're liable to change!

We walked up the pedestrian street and viewed the Acropolis from below! There are cranes on site - are they rebuilding it???? 

 

 

In summer one can attend outdoor cinema and concert there, which should be pleasant in the cooler evenings. 

There is a massive amount of graffiti - most in Greek which I don't understand but below tells the tale of Greek disaffection ! 

 

The museum is located on the other side of the  street. Many of the exhibits  are the originals from the Acropolis and elsewhere. They have replaced them on site with imitations. When I first climbed to the Acropolis in 1978, I did wonder how long they would allow people to walk freely over the area? 

 

Time did not allow for a visit to the museum on this occasion but it will be on the next visit's schedule. 

We returned to the hotel, walked to the Acropolis metro, purchased our €10 ticket to the airport, one change on metro at Syntagma, and then metro direct to the airport. At time of writing, they depart at 6 minutes after the hour and half hour from Syntagma. It takes 45 minutes. Leave plenty of time, check your area and gate as if you make a mistake, it's a least a 15 minute walk back to the central area and as much again possibly to the next area. 

As we approached the airport, there was a huge sign - not official - 'Immigrants welcome, tourists go home'. The author(s) don't know what side their bread is buttered on!! 🙄

To Athens

The final leg of our Greek odyssey is about to begin as we take the 1100 hrs  bus to Athens. 

The bus was 20 minutes late but that's to be expected when they have to contend with people double parking - the clampers would have a field day here! 

The bus was almost full but passengers got on and off, including a group of ladies, who boarded at our stop and alighted the next town.  They were in great spirits! 

We continued through Parnassos Park in the opposite direction from whence we arrived in Delphi. 

 

Having passed the town of Levadia, we left the mountains behind. This is a skiing area in winter and the area must be very picturesque when covered in snow! We then entered an extremely wide valley with the mountains in the distance. We passed Thiva and took the motorway to Athens. 

 

We were c 20km from Athens when there occurred fork lightening and thunder together with tumultuous rain. The bus, which had seen better days (most of KTEL busses are excellent), began to leak water! Luckily the rain ceased as we arrived in Athens. The bus dropped us at the Metro, where we got a metro to within 60m of the Hotel! 

Hotel Phaedra is situated within a stone's throw of the Acropolis in the historic centre of Athens. (€80) and is a good 3 star. 

I'm sitting here on the room's balcony with a gentle breeze blowing - a welcome relief from the blazing sun we've just endured for the last 4 hours.  

As we have visited Athens before and 'done the sights' as they say, we set off to see Parliament Square, the centre of all demonstrations against austerity. 

 

CC and I parted company here, he to a book shop and I to continue the search for the remainder Grand Promenade which starts at Dionysius Areopagitou, near the Temple Zeus. I took this quiet leafy parkland walk to Thisio Park. 

 

I had already walked the other part along Ermou, a busy shopping street, which ends at Parliament Square. 

This is Athens historic quarter. For the 2008 Olympics, the area was pedestrianised .  This area was relieved of traffic so that citizen and tourist alike can enjoy the sites of Ancient Greece in comfort. Within this area are most of the major sites including the Acropolis and  impressively designed Acropolis museum. 

More tomorrow .... 

Delphi

Thunder and lightening was forecast!! 

We had intended that if the Archaeological site at Delphi was open until late (it sometimes closes at 1500hrs), we would go in the afternoon when the tour busses had departed. However, though the site was open until 20.00hrs we decided not to risk it on account of the forecast. 

Having breakfasted over looking Parnassos National Park and the town of Itaca, on the Gulf of Corinth, we set out to walk the 500m from our hotel to the ancient site built on the slopes of Mt. Parnassos and the Gulf of Corinth. 

 

We first visited the Museum to learn a little about the site. The wealth of artifacts discovered is astounding. 

 

                   The cauldron 

 

                   A painted plate

 

A charioteer - the only bronze pieces found on the site as it had been looted or locals had used the bronze to make utensils  - among its numerous treasures. 

 

 

 

 

  A replica of the site (as it would have been)

On first entering the site, one enters the Agora, (market place), where pilgrims bought gifts to offer to Apollo. Continuing on the sacred way, one encounters the Athenian Treasury, once filled with the spoils of war. Nearby is the omphalos - it is said that Zeus released two eagles and placed this stone where they met - it was considered the centre of the ancient world!    

On we climbed to the Temple of Apollo, 

 

 

we passed the octagonal shaped stone wall that bear inscriptions referring to the emancipation of slaves. 

We continued to the theatre, where music and poetry competitions were held. Games were held here, similar to Olympia, every 4 years. The theatre could accommodate 5,000 spectators!  

 

A view of the theatre from the road to the stadium 

  

A 0.7km path climbs to the stadium, reputedly the best preserved in Greece. 

 

 

 

The Delphic Oracle was an important political and religious sanctuary. Worshippers came here to consult the god Apollo, through the priestess Pythia. She became entranced having breathed in vapours from chasm beneath and chewing laurel leaves. It was claimed she was infallible, even if her answers were vague. All decisions in connection with war, marriage, election of leaders and prospective journeys were done at the instigation of her visions, often to the detriment of the worshipper! 

The Byzantine Emperor (also of Olympia fame) abolished the sanctuary in 4th century AD. 

We retraced or steps downhill. We had spent three hours there - one in the museum and two on site - and we could have spent more. 

The sky was darkening, drops of rain were falling and there was a clap of thunder as we quitted the site. Maybe the gods are angry? 

There are many opportunities to hike in the area to the Korykeon Cave Walk and the Delphi to AncientbKirea hike. 

We returned to Hotel Hermes (€38 per night)! The promised storm failed to materialise and the sun shone again!

Tomorrow, a 3 hour bus journey to Athens......

To Delphi

 

            What a magical journey! 

We departed Thessaloniki on the 1500 hrs bus to Delphi. At the station, contrary to what Alexander had been told, we did not need to change busses for Delphi! 

The route took us down the motorway, along the picturesque Gulf of Thessaloniki, 

 

we turned inland for Katherini, Larissa, joined the Gulf of Pagastikos at Volvos 

 

and arrived in Lamia. We left the motorway soon after and continued to Amfisa. We changed busses - yes we did - at A.      and continued to the pretty town of Itea on the northern coast of the Gulf of Corinth.

 

From there we began our climb to Delphi

 

It was magical, inspiring and humbling as we drove through Mount Parnasos national park. The landscape was breath-taking. The mountains were bathed in bright light as the evening closed in - I thought Apollo might appear in all his majesty - but alas no!! 

 

Just after 21.00 hrs, we arrived in Delphi. I hadn't noticed the journey as we had a10 minute rest stop every two hours. 

Dinner and rest and we await the discovery of Delphi tomorrow. 

Thessaloniki

Independent traveller in Greece beware! With incredibly no tourist offices even in major tourist centres such as Olympia and Delphi, travel between locations is difficult!!! 

We had intended taking the train from Thessaloniki to Levadia and taking a 55 minute bus ride from there to Delphi. However, when we checked this with reception, it appears that while a bus departs Delphi for Levadia, there is no bus from Levadia to Delphi! It is impossible to get information online and one would need to speak Greek to phone!!

Our helpful receptionist made enquiries and informed us that  our only option is to take a 5 hr 10 minute bus to Aiapkeia and from there a 55 minute bus to Delphi!! Again no joined up thinking with bus and train services or between regional bus services - the bus services are run by collectives on a regional basis!  We leave at 15.00 and finally arrive Adelphi at 21.10 hrs. - cost €37.50 + final leg € ? as yet!! One could not purchase a ticket for the final lap of the journey in Thessaloniki!!!

Tonight we had dinner  next door to our hotel.  It had come highly recommended. It did not disappoint. There we encountered a lady who was Dean of Public Policy at Penn State university . She was here to help with communication between the universities.  She concurred that the Greeks don't understand the concept. 

This morning, we visited the church of Agios Sophia . 

 

Unfortunately, just as we arrived the church was closing but I think yesterday's visit to Agios Demetrius gave us a flavour of Greek Orthodox churches.      

We then repaired to a nearby restaurant  for lunch as we were quitting Thessaloniki at 1500 hrs on a 6 hour bus trip to Delphi!! The restaurant is Thessaloniki's answer to Dublin's Fallon and Byrne. 

 

 

The food was delicious: a Taramsalata 

 

to start followed by baked two cheeses for me and sardines for CC 

 

- excellent choices though the waitress informed me that my choice was only a starter - it was certainly more than sufficient. Portions are very large here in Greece. 

Tha above should tied us over until we arrive in Delphi tonight ......

 

Thessaloniki Macedonia Northern Greece.

Last night, we walked down to the port. One of the warehouse was teeming with young people as the disco raved.  Outside were two police cars and the army !! 

Thessaloniki is a typical tourist town with blocks of apartments facing the sea. 

 

The town is the first place we experienced a holiday atmosphere with  lots of people walking, eating and drinking. Some establishments were full of young people having  a good time, others for the more sober visitors! 

Our hotel is right in the heart of Ladadika; a bustling area of hotels and restaurants. The hotel was an excellent choice, the staff we most helpful. (€58per night). My only complaint was that the air conditioning didn't cool the room to my requirements! Last night we ate at a nearby typical Greek restaurant - the grilled cheese was delicious. 

On our return to the hotel, we fell into conversation with the receptionist. He was a well qualified young man who had completed a Masters in Public Policy in Madrid University. Greece needs young men such as him.

He told us that he regretted returning to Greece. He was disillusioned with the political system. When I made the observation that the economy appeared to be improving, he dissented and said that the Greek people were still hurting though they give the contrary impression.

At 07.00 hours the town was asleep - not a sole appeared until 10.00 hrs. Thessaloniki is the second city of Greece, with a population of only 325,000. The sun rose but it appears, it will commence raining at 15.00 hrs so we had better do the suggested walk before then......

We set off along the port to see the White Tower. 

 

It has a sad history as a prison and torture chamber. In 1826, Sultan Mamud11 massacred rebellious janissaries (an elite troop of forcibly Islamised boys) there. In 1913, Greece reconquered its country and whitewashed the tower to obliterate its bloody past - the white wash has obviously faded over time! 

From there, we turned inland and first encountered the Palace of Galerius,

 

 

followed further along our route by the Arch of  Galerius built to celebrate his victory over the Persians.

 

We heard music playing and diverted down a side street to hear the band. Thessaloniki has its own symphony orchestra - rare for a town of its size to support one. 

 

Further on Galerius also built the Rotunda; a 30 metres edifice as his future mausoleum but he died of a mysterious disease and is buried in Serbia. It had life as a Christian church and later as a mosque with an added minaret. 

 

Galerius chose prime sites on elevated land overlooking the sea!

A brief stop for lunch and our next visit was where Ataturk, first President of the Republic of Turkey, was born.  On our Orient Express Trip, we saw the suite in which he lived in the Pera Hotel in Istanbul. 

 

On we continued - the temperature had risen from 22-26 degrees but there was no sign of the promised rain. 

We visited the Church of Agios Dimitrios, the patron saint of Thessaloniki. The church is set in its own square.

 

In 306AD, Dimitri was killed at this site by order of Galerius, persecutor of Christians  His remains are in a side altar. 

 

It too became a mosque after the Ottman conquest and returned to church status after the Greek reconquest.

 

In 1917, Thessaloniki suffered a major fire and the church was damaged - only 5 original mosaics survived. 

 

To find our route back to the hotel was to prove a challenge- roads led off in all directions - the only solution was to keep walking downwards to the sea (geographers you understand) and so we did arrive one block from the hotel-after 5 hours of sightseeing!! 

It's siesta time now.....