Sacramento to Reno

Today we travel to Reno (Nevada)  on the Zephyr

We were informed that a group of rail enthusiast from the Railroad Museum, Sacramento, would give a commentary as far as Reno. The location of the talk was to be in the panoramic Observation Car 

There has been one on every train we’ve taken to date

We’re crossing the Rockies and tunneling frequently as  we go. As the construction of the railroad reached Auburn, there was a labour shortage. The railroad hired 50 Chinese and they proved to be such excellent workers that the company hired directly from China and thus the Chinese were responsible for the construction of the trans continental railroad

We’re now 1.5 hours out of Sacramento, at Colfax  

The town is located  2,400 ft above sea level.

Next we crossed the American River Canyon 

followed by a view of the American River Valley, 

where gold was discovered  

We passed through Tunnel 1 - tunnels were numbered as they were completed 

The winters are so cold here that snow sheds had to be built to house the trains and equipment. From 6,900 feet, we commenced our descent at 30mph 

Beautiful lakes and forested mountains abound 

We arrived at Truckee neat the crest of the Sierra Nevada mountains. 

Once a lawless town, it is now a recreational area at 5,000 ft above sea level!! Downhill skiing is available in winter and there stands a beautiful lake for summer holiday makers.  Truckee is reputed to have been one of the first mechanized ski lift in the US. 

The train followed the the Truckee River Valley ad it made its way to Reno 

Arriving in Reno, we took a short taxi ride to Eldorado Casino, our abode for tonight. It is three casinos in one!! 

We checked in. It was difficult to find reception what with slot machines everywhere. Floors and floors of them with poker and backgammon tables to booth

and plenty of bling!!

Later, we went out to see the town. It is not Las Vegas. The casinos occupy a small area. We visited Cal-Neva, which appeared to be the next largest casino. We had dinner there - food acceptable. 

We returned via the Reno arch 

to our hotel 

The gamblers must have returned home after the week- end. It is very quiet  

Tomorrow, we leave for Denver with a night aboard the train 

Thessaloniki Macedonia Northern Greece.

Last night, we walked down to the port. One of the warehouse was teeming with young people as the disco raved.  Outside were two police cars and the army !! 

Thessaloniki is a typical tourist town with blocks of apartments facing the sea. 

 

The town is the first place we experienced a holiday atmosphere with  lots of people walking, eating and drinking. Some establishments were full of young people having  a good time, others for the more sober visitors! 

Our hotel is right in the heart of Ladadika; a bustling area of hotels and restaurants. The hotel was an excellent choice, the staff we most helpful. (€58per night). My only complaint was that the air conditioning didn't cool the room to my requirements! Last night we ate at a nearby typical Greek restaurant - the grilled cheese was delicious. 

On our return to the hotel, we fell into conversation with the receptionist. He was a well qualified young man who had completed a Masters in Public Policy in Madrid University. Greece needs young men such as him.

He told us that he regretted returning to Greece. He was disillusioned with the political system. When I made the observation that the economy appeared to be improving, he dissented and said that the Greek people were still hurting though they give the contrary impression.

At 07.00 hours the town was asleep - not a sole appeared until 10.00 hrs. Thessaloniki is the second city of Greece, with a population of only 325,000. The sun rose but it appears, it will commence raining at 15.00 hrs so we had better do the suggested walk before then......

We set off along the port to see the White Tower. 

 

It has a sad history as a prison and torture chamber. In 1826, Sultan Mamud11 massacred rebellious janissaries (an elite troop of forcibly Islamised boys) there. In 1913, Greece reconquered its country and whitewashed the tower to obliterate its bloody past - the white wash has obviously faded over time! 

From there, we turned inland and first encountered the Palace of Galerius,

 

 

followed further along our route by the Arch of  Galerius built to celebrate his victory over the Persians.

 

We heard music playing and diverted down a side street to hear the band. Thessaloniki has its own symphony orchestra - rare for a town of its size to support one. 

 

Further on Galerius also built the Rotunda; a 30 metres edifice as his future mausoleum but he died of a mysterious disease and is buried in Serbia. It had life as a Christian church and later as a mosque with an added minaret. 

 

Galerius chose prime sites on elevated land overlooking the sea!

A brief stop for lunch and our next visit was where Ataturk, first President of the Republic of Turkey, was born.  On our Orient Express Trip, we saw the suite in which he lived in the Pera Hotel in Istanbul. 

 

On we continued - the temperature had risen from 22-26 degrees but there was no sign of the promised rain. 

We visited the Church of Agios Dimitrios, the patron saint of Thessaloniki. The church is set in its own square.

 

In 306AD, Dimitri was killed at this site by order of Galerius, persecutor of Christians  His remains are in a side altar. 

 

It too became a mosque after the Ottman conquest and returned to church status after the Greek reconquest.

 

In 1917, Thessaloniki suffered a major fire and the church was damaged - only 5 original mosaics survived. 

 

To find our route back to the hotel was to prove a challenge- roads led off in all directions - the only solution was to keep walking downwards to the sea (geographers you understand) and so we did arrive one block from the hotel-after 5 hours of sightseeing!! 

It's siesta time now.....

 

Picton - Christchurch

A tarred line across the concourse of Picton's ferry terminal

 told the story. Our shuttle driver informed us that he stood outside the coach on that November day and the ground opened. The crack was only about half a foot and it was now filled in. He described the shaking of the home. 

The ferry crossing was pleasant . We arrived at 21.45 having left at 18.35. The ship was surprisingly uncrowded. We arrived at Picton B/B, B/B are very popular choices with the Kiwis. It was not dissimilar to entering a convent. Though it was only 22.15 the place was very quiet and when two young guests came through the door, laughing, they were told to be quiet in no uncertain terms!!  

The room was a through back to 1980s Ireland with its dated furniture but we are lucky to have an ensuite as many have only a bathroom at the end of the corridor!! NZ$140.

Breakfast was continental. The lady of the house was much more engaging and gave me some useful advise as we headed for the west coast. 

We boarded the bus at 0730. 

 It was to be a long day - ETA 1600hrs. Unfortunately because of the recent earthquake the coastal route from Picton to Christchurch is closed and we have to deviate inland , adding at least 3 hours to our journey. Dear reader I attempted to enclose a map but none was small enough to delineate our journey. So if interested, you must take out your atlas!  

Leaving Picton ferry terminal at 730, we took highway 1 to Blenheim. This was Marlborough wine country earning over one billion $ in sales. It used to be an apple and cherry growing area but the wine industry proved more lucrative. I recognised one vast estate Bancroft - well distributed in Ireland. 

At the railway station 

there, we contemplated what might have nbeen- a shorter journey by rail along the coast but the recent earthquake terminated that journey. Instead we turned inland and followed the Wairau River to St Armand with the Richmond Mountains to the west. The scenery was spectacular and one can only imagine it in winter when the ski season is at its height. 

From there we drove to Murchison where after a brief sop, we continued to Springs Junction for our lunch stop. It was a truckers' cafe unused to the crowds that now frequent the route. due to the closure of the coastal routes. A trucker opined that the coastal route might not open for 12 months and he pondered what the consequences would be if snow closed this route? On the latter section, we had followed the river valley between Victoria Forest Park  to the west and Nelson lakes National Park to the east. Even though it was raining the river beds were dry , the fields were being  irrigated The cattle huddled together for shelter and the sheep shivered having lost their fleeces. !

We continued to Lewis Pass 903 metres above sea level. It was unnerving as the road had no protective barriers so one relied on the skill of the driver as one contemplate the drop to the river below.  

We continued to Hanmer Forest Park, eventually arriving in the thermal springs town of Hamber Springs. It was wet but the rain that marred our journey had ceased. No photographs could adequately depict the grandeur of the scenery we encountered on this journey. 

We continued to Culverden, and on to Waipara, where we rejoined Highway 1 en route to Christchurch. I had thought we would travel the coastal route but Highway 1 went inland so we never saw the coast!! We eventually arrived in the ultra new bus station at Colombo St - a bus station more akin to a n Airport Terminal with the most sophisticated technology I have yet to encounter at a bus station. 

We were advised the the O bus i.e. The Orange bus would drop us outside our motel. At the station, the clerk could bring up our motel' location on his screen! 

Arriving at the motel , we were pleasantly surprise d at the standard. It was rated 4 star and indeed it was (NZ€$ 110) t it was superb!! . 

We're off to explore Christchurch city centre. More anon.......

Almost there !

  

Last night, we were to have our last dinner at the Brittania.  Tonight we dine at the renowned  Verandah Restaurant. 

Prior to dinner, we had a glass of champagne at the Veuve Clicquot Bar. 

This evening dinner exceeded the excellent standard to date. From the extensive menu, I chose baked escargots, followed by salad, surf and turf (filet mignon and lobster tail), 

Dessert was pancakes with cherries and cherry  sauce: 

Followed by coffee and petit fours. 

After dinner, we had the parade of the 160 chefs, under the Executive chef, a Yorkshire lad, Nicholas Oldroyd,  who, during our voyage, have catered to our every whim 

This morning, those interested have an opportunity to see the kitchen in operation. 

After dinner, we adjourned to the Queens Room for the Roaring Twenties Ball. 

Later,  we repaired to the Royal Court theatre to see the Cunard singers and dancers for the last time. They treated us to a rendition of song and dance from South America. 

A late night snack at the Kings Court completed a perfect day.  

This morning after my usual favourite Eggs Benedict,  

we repaired to the deck for a few rounds  - try as we might to burn off a few calories - it is a hopeless task! The temperature has improved and we have donned summer clothes once again. 

At 1030 hrs, we took the opportunity to visit the kitchen. The Executive Chef was on hand to answer our questions. The kitchen does not use any packet or instant foods All sauces are made from their own stock. The  kitchen is divided into sections. 

 

and one realised the organisation that goes into running a kitchen of this magnitude, serving dinner to 2,000 guests in two sittings - particularly at sea. All food  for the Trans Atlantic crossing must be taken on at port; be it NYC or at Southampton. 

It is quite a feat having fresh food available throughout the voyage. 

After lunch in Britannia, where we had an interesting discussion with a pro Brexit couple and an American who was a member of the Rifle Club of America, I made my way to the Queens Room for the NCA fashion show -

these are the creme de la creme of student fashion designers - there are 100 applications for every place. Below is a sample of their ideas: 

 

     

  What trendy young men will be           

          Wearing in the future

 

        

I'm now sitting on deck, enjoying the sunshine but the wind is whipping up - I hope we don't encounter that hurricane! 

Tonight we saw the last performance of the Cunard Singers and Dancers followed  by Stephani Parkes in another spectacular performance. 

After the performance, we adjourned to the Verandah Restaurant. It is an institution, available only to First Class passengers on QM1 but available to all at a premium  on QM2. 

The food was of Michelin standard - more impressive in that it is cooked on board ship; 8 days out from port.! 

     Goat's Cheese Creme Caramel 

Crab meat with fried broccoli and    

           Cauliflower purée

 

    Cream of Mushroom soup with  

                     truffles

           Turbot with lobster tail

  

                          Sorbet

When I admired the glass, the waiter told me the restaurant was on good relations with the bar and the restaurant reused the broken Martini glasses- I nearly fell for it !!

Poached pear with Valarhone Ice - 

                   cream

Followed by coffee and petit fours - all washed down with a bottle of Côte Roti. 

It was a spectacular meal, the Verandah worthy of its reputation.