To Athens

The final leg of our Greek odyssey is about to begin as we take the 1100 hrs  bus to Athens. 

The bus was 20 minutes late but that's to be expected when they have to contend with people double parking - the clampers would have a field day here! 

The bus was almost full but passengers got on and off, including a group of ladies, who boarded at our stop and alighted the next town.  They were in great spirits! 

We continued through Parnassos Park in the opposite direction from whence we arrived in Delphi. 

 

Having passed the town of Levadia, we left the mountains behind. This is a skiing area in winter and the area must be very picturesque when covered in snow! We then entered an extremely wide valley with the mountains in the distance. We passed Thiva and took the motorway to Athens. 

 

We were c 20km from Athens when there occurred fork lightening and thunder together with tumultuous rain. The bus, which had seen better days (most of KTEL busses are excellent), began to leak water! Luckily the rain ceased as we arrived in Athens. The bus dropped us at the Metro, where we got a metro to within 60m of the Hotel! 

Hotel Phaedra is situated within a stone's throw of the Acropolis in the historic centre of Athens. (€80) and is a good 3 star. 

I'm sitting here on the room's balcony with a gentle breeze blowing - a welcome relief from the blazing sun we've just endured for the last 4 hours.  

As we have visited Athens before and 'done the sights' as they say, we set off to see Parliament Square, the centre of all demonstrations against austerity. 

 

CC and I parted company here, he to a book shop and I to continue the search for the remainder Grand Promenade which starts at Dionysius Areopagitou, near the Temple Zeus. I took this quiet leafy parkland walk to Thisio Park. 

 

I had already walked the other part along Ermou, a busy shopping street, which ends at Parliament Square. 

This is Athens historic quarter. For the 2008 Olympics, the area was pedestrianised .  This area was relieved of traffic so that citizen and tourist alike can enjoy the sites of Ancient Greece in comfort. Within this area are most of the major sites including the Acropolis and  impressively designed Acropolis museum. 

More tomorrow .... 

Te Anau - Milford Sound

Te Anau is a town like all others in the region devoted to tourism. The hiker is well catered for in the shops which are stocked with all manner of necessities. 

The usual fast food and ethnic restaurants abound. In our experience, it is difficult to find decent restaurants in the towns. The only meal of note ( and apologies dear reader, I forgot to take photos) was the meal we had in The Landing in Waneka, which was excellent and only slightly more expensive than the usual available fare. 

We are staying at the Distinction Luxmore Hotel (NZ$378- 2 nights) in the centre of town. Today we will make the 120 km journey each way to and from Milford Sound. From Te Anau is the only road to Milford Sound

 There have been proposals to link the Sound with Queenstown ( reducing the journey substantially ) but each and every plan has been scuttered by the environmentalists. 

Fiordland's geology evolved over he last 500,000 years. The granite beds were metamorphised into gneiss. During the Ice Age, the 1,000 meter cliffs sided the U- shaped valleys eroded by the Ice. The valleys were submerged and fjords formed. Geographers do you see a discrepancy in the (hint ) name of the area? 

It rains - up to 7mm per annum - reputedly one of the highest in the world. However, settlements are situated in the rain shadow and receive half of the coastal precipitation.. 

The World Heritage Fiordland National Park at 1.25 million hectares is the largest National Park in NZ. The Milford Sound is c. 16km from its head to the Tasman Sea. 

We had been advised by Isite to take a 3pm cruise as between 12-3 pm as the tour busses arrive and it is very busy.  We followed the advice Leaving Te Anau at midway and after a number of stops along the way, we reached Milford Sound At 230 We had a quick lunch and left on the Orange criuise as recommended at 3..($60pp)

En route to Milford Sound , we stopped at Mirror Lakes so called because the lakes reflect the mountains.

 The weather wasn't bright, we were having so me 'soft' rain, so the reflection wasn't of great quality. 

Later we stopped to see the Great Divide , which at 235 m is the lowest east west crossing of Southern Alps .  

Eventually , after climbing to the cirque at Gertrude Valey , we reached Homer Tunnel. Here via the 1.2 km tunnel which cuts the cirque's head wall , it cuts to sea level. This tunnel is hewn out of the cirque's rock and that is much in evidence inside the tunnel where the bare rock is left exposed. It was only opened in 1953 after a number of failed attempts.   

We descended a winding rad and arrived at Milford Sound. There is little there but a cafe , a small hotel and the harbour. We booked a cruise departing at three. With minutes to spare we boarde the boat   We set sail.  

I had great expectations maybe too many as I found sailing through the fjord underwhelming ! Was it the weather which was dull 

and had a smattering of rain or was it my expectations I don't know but it disappointed even though we saw waterfalls 

descending from the massive valleys 

above and cruised so close to one , we were all showered   

and the fur seals we saw sleeping on the rocks 

or the Tasman Sea so quiet now but wild when the Roaring Firties roar ? 

We returned after a two hour journey and returned to Te Anau....

NYC

Yesterday, we took the tube from Flatbush Ave. station to Fulton Street NYC, where we visited the 9/11 Memorial park. Last Sunday, commemorations were held throughout NYC, including at Breezy Point to commemorate those of Breezy Point who had lost their lives in the disaster. It is hard to believe that it is 15 years since the Twin Towers were struck by two aircraft, killing many. 

The park is a fitting memorial- an oasis in busy Manhattan.

Two fountains have the names of all those who died, inscribed on them. 

There is a museum, 

a shopping centre and 7 of 9 proposed towers have been built. 

Afterwards, we had a little retail therapy at Century 21, before we adjourned to Macy's on 34th Street to further punish the credit cards. At $1.10 to the €, the value that once was is no more!! 

Lhasa - CKG - Guandzhou - Amsterdam

Today, we had to depart the hotel at 06.30 hrs whatever  time one's flight was!! The airport is 65 km from Lhasa and it took the coach in excess of an hour to make the journey in virtually traffic less conditions. 

Our flight was to depart at 11.50 hrs  but on arrival at the airport, we were informed  that our flight was cancelled!! We are to take a flight at 14.55 hrs !! The only consolation is that we will fly directly to Goungzhou and arrive as originally scheduled. We then hope to board the 00.05 hrs flight to Amsterdam. 

My thoughts on Tibet: 

1. The Tibetans are a very gentle people and friendly even though the majority don't speak English. They appear to be very religious and one sees them praying on their beads (similar to our rosary beads but the prayers, our guide explained, showing us her beads, are counted in 100s and then 1,000) as they walk the streets. Prayer wheels, which spin around, are also used but less frequently. 

2. There is little doubt that the Chinese are trying to suppress their culture as the Chinese attempt to assimilate them. The railway line is a case in point - the Tibetans were not pleased with its arrival as it brought cheap mass produced goods and as a result their craft industries have suffered. As one Tibetan said to me ' we had mice but now the train brings rats' Was it allegorical ? 

3. As you've previously read, the level of security is enormous. There were riots in Lhasa in 2012 and since then there are riot police visible in the streets together with the regular police and the army. The level of police inspections is greater than I've seen anywhere, even in Soviet era USSR. 

4. The standard of hotels in Lhasa is very good and some of the restaurants are excellent but one must choose carefully where one eats. However, accommodation in Lake Namtso was very poor - either a tent shared dorm  or a basic room. The toilet facilities were woeful with a pit style toilet in the middle of the complex - divisions between toilets but no doors!! No showering or washing facilities available in the complex and as its a holy lake , one can't swim there!  On the train the toilets were never cleansed for the duration of the trip and one can imagine the level of deterioration as the train journey progressed. For the most part toilets here are disgusting, with no toilet paper available, (if, dear reader, you happen to pass this way, bring plenty of toilet paper, wet wipes, anti bacterial spray and tissues).  

5. Their personal habits are strange to us - the Chinese spit a lot but not so the Tibetans. As we waited to gain entry to the Potala Palace, a Chinese woman beside me spat. Our guide, who is a very sophisticate lady, berated her. However, one could see from the lady's confused expression she couldn't see the problem. When we visited Beijing some years ago, the level of spitting was disgusting but I've noticed a marked improvement on our recent visits.  Our guide told me she loves the European clients because they have manners and they do not litter. As I write this in the airport CAFE,  there is s man across from me shaving himself and on the train a man, who joined our carriage, commenced cutting his nails!! 

6. The cost of living for a tourist is reasonable, if not inexpensive. 

7. The internet is severally restricted. One can send and receive emails, make 'What's App' phone calls, but one cannot get Google or any internet site to download information - even details of Chinese tourist sites. 

Finally, in spite of the challenges aforementioned, we really enjoyed the trip.  Tourism is in its infancy - the main tourists at present are young people travelling between Nepal and Tibet, trekking, visiting Kathmandu and base camp Everest. 

If there's one regret, it is that we didn't visit Everest base camp. The facilities, I am reliably informed , rival Lake Namtso but still ...... the experience!!!

I would rate it among the top five holidays we've taken .... 😄

END

Xian - Guandzhou

The  blog on the Terra Cotta Warriors should be read before this blog. 

We have come to our journey's end! We commenced our journey at the beginning of the Silk Road at Guandzhou and ended it here at the termination of the Silk Road at Xian. Xian was once the political capital of China in the Qin dynasty and the cradle of Chinese civilisation.  

This evening we fly back to Guandzhou and spend our last evening with J. A return train journey was tentatively mooted via Shanghai - anything between 28 and 35 hours - but that idea was firmly dismissed in favour of flying . There's only so much 'train' a girl can take!! 

We will stay at the airport hotel as the airport is 28 km north of the city and our flight leaves tomorrow at midnight. 

This morning, as a heavy smog again envelops the city, as a view from our bedroom window illustrates,       

we have decided to have a 'hotel' day - unusual for us. We will not cycle around the town walls - the smog level had decided that... We will  remain in the hotel until our taxi collects us to take us to the airport. 

As I write. I again hear the tune of It's a Small World. I first heard it as we walked to the Muslim Quarter on our first afternoon here. We weren't in Disneyland - no the music emanated from a truck spraying the roads!! The public areas are kept scruplessly clean as elsewhere in China. Spitting is less prevalent now than when I was last here in 2000! If only the smog might be addressed in Xian - I can't see their tourism industry developing until this issue is addressed - 

tourists will stay a day or two to visit the  Army of Terra Cotta Warriors and Horses and depart.... 

THE END

Lusaka, Zambia

Last night we had dinner at the hotel. The  Food and  Beverage manager, a Cypriot  came to speak with us. He only arrived 13 days ago from Jo' burg and was already frustrated with the shortages. In fact, the wine we ordered was not in stock. The head chef is Dutch and there is a Chinese and an Indian chef also. The Chinese, to our surprise have recently bought the hotel. The Chinese appear to be investing in Zambia. 

This morning breakfast was a combination of European and Chinese food. The staff are willing but need training. 

Lusaka is the first city the Lonely Planet described as  not having any sights worth seeing that I've read at any rate. However, we needed to get to the bus station to buy our tickets for Kipiri Moshi, where we will board the Tasara train to Dar Es Salaam. 

The very helpful staff at the hotel had phoned  to confirm that the train was running - otherwise we would have to return the 240km to Lusaka and fly to Dar.  I hope it doesn't come to pass but after our earlier experience, who knows?

We walked the 20 minutes to the Bus Station  to get a flavour of the city. On entering the station, we were the only white people, we had to fend off numerous touts. Eventually, with the help of an official, we found the Mazgandu Family Bus kiosk, (this family are reputed to have the best busses but we may have gospel music - must get out the cotton wool again) and purchased our tickets. It appears that we have to take the 0630hrs bus to KM as the later bus was too risky - we might miss the train!! 

We then crossed the road to the railway station.  It was closed. We were taking photos through the fence when a security man asked us what we were doing. 

He was none too sure as to how he'd react when I said my CC liked trains. He then communicated with others and opened the gate for us. He told us not to take photos until we had seen the police. The police didn't appear interested in us and sent him to administration. (they obviously get a lot of visitors like us ! ) The manager came out to us and told us we could take whatever photos we liked, having established that we were Irish. 

As we took our photos, we discussed the state of the Zambian and Irish soccer teams  (I'm an expert you know) and the Irish weather - he said he supposed it was too hot for us - we concurred. 

We got a shot o the Jubilee train we were supposed  to take last Tuesday from Livingstone to Lusaka. Now it appears,it only travels on Sundays - not Fridays,Tuesdays and Sundays  as we were previously  advised.

 We thanked the manager and left the station, walking back towards the hotel where we came upon some interesting photo opportunities. 

           There's posh for you!

We entered a very upmarket shopping centre, not unlike Brooklyn in Pretoria. It would compete with any in the western world - as far from the huts of yesterday as you can imagine! 

The only interesting observation we made was that in the supermarket, where we had gone to stock up provisions for our 2 day train journey, there was a queue of women at the back of the store awaiting what appeared to be a consignment of potatoes. I saw two other white people in the complex. It reminded me of being in Disneyland in Tokyo with the children some years ago and we were the only whites and the centre of attention. 

Having purchased our provisions for the train, we taxied back to the hotel, where I am now sitting by the pool, writing this blog. 

Today is my CC' s birthday so we will do some fine dining tonight. He is lucky - he gets to spend his birthdays  in the most unusual places!  

There will be a three day silence, Gaye take note!  (to your utter relief, dear reader but fear not, in Dar, I'll make up for the silence) as I doubt the Tasara has internet on board. 

We've got this far in one piece, let's hope it continues.....