Friday 6 January 2017

Te Anau - Milford Sound

Te Anau is a town like all others in the region devoted to tourism. The hiker is well catered for in the shops which are stocked with all manner of necessities. 

The usual fast food and ethnic restaurants abound. In our experience, it is difficult to find decent restaurants in the towns. The only meal of note ( and apologies dear reader, I forgot to take photos) was the meal we had in The Landing in Waneka, which was excellent and only slightly more expensive than the usual available fare. 

We are staying at the Distinction Luxmore Hotel (NZ$378- 2 nights) in the centre of town. Today we will make the 120 km journey each way to and from Milford Sound. From Te Anau is the only road to Milford Sound

 There have been proposals to link the Sound with Queenstown ( reducing the journey substantially ) but each and every plan has been scuttered by the environmentalists. 

Fiordland's geology evolved over he last 500,000 years. The granite beds were metamorphised into gneiss. During the Ice Age, the 1,000 meter cliffs sided the U- shaped valleys eroded by the Ice. The valleys were submerged and fjords formed. Geographers do you see a discrepancy in the (hint ) name of the area? 

It rains - up to 7mm per annum - reputedly one of the highest in the world. However, settlements are situated in the rain shadow and receive half of the coastal precipitation.. 

The World Heritage Fiordland National Park at 1.25 million hectares is the largest National Park in NZ. The Milford Sound is c. 16km from its head to the Tasman Sea. 

We had been advised by Isite to take a 3pm cruise as between 12-3 pm as the tour busses arrive and it is very busy.  We followed the advice Leaving Te Anau at midway and after a number of stops along the way, we reached Milford Sound At 230 We had a quick lunch and left on the Orange criuise as recommended at 3..($60pp)

En route to Milford Sound , we stopped at Mirror Lakes so called because the lakes reflect the mountains.



 The weather wasn't bright, we were having so me 'soft' rain, so the reflection wasn't of great quality. 

Later we stopped to see the Great Divide , which at 235 m is the lowest east west crossing of Southern Alps .  


Eventually , after climbing to the cirque at Gertrude Valey , we reached Homer Tunnel. Here via the 1.2 km tunnel which cuts the cirque's head wall , it cuts to sea level. This tunnel is hewn out of the cirque's rock and that is much in evidence inside the tunnel where the bare rock is left exposed. It was only opened in 1953 after a number of failed attempts.   

We descended a winding rad and arrived at Milford Sound. There is little there but a cafe , a small hotel and the harbour. We booked a cruise departing at three. With minutes to spare we boarde the boat   We set sail.  




I had great expectations maybe too many as I found sailing through the fjord underwhelming ! Was it the weather which was dull 



and had a smattering of rain or was it my expectations I don't know but it disappointed even though we saw waterfalls 


descending from the massive valleys 


above and cruised so close to one , we were all showered   


and the fur seals we saw sleeping on the rocks 


or the Tasman Sea so quiet now but wild when the Roaring Firties roar ? 


We returned after a two hour journey and returned to Te Anau....

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