To Delphi

 

            What a magical journey! 

We departed Thessaloniki on the 1500 hrs bus to Delphi. At the station, contrary to what Alexander had been told, we did not need to change busses for Delphi! 

The route took us down the motorway, along the picturesque Gulf of Thessaloniki, 

 

we turned inland for Katherini, Larissa, joined the Gulf of Pagastikos at Volvos 

 

and arrived in Lamia. We left the motorway soon after and continued to Amfisa. We changed busses - yes we did - at A.      and continued to the pretty town of Itea on the northern coast of the Gulf of Corinth.

 

From there we began our climb to Delphi

 

It was magical, inspiring and humbling as we drove through Mount Parnasos national park. The landscape was breath-taking. The mountains were bathed in bright light as the evening closed in - I thought Apollo might appear in all his majesty - but alas no!! 

 

Just after 21.00 hrs, we arrived in Delphi. I hadn't noticed the journey as we had a10 minute rest stop every two hours. 

Dinner and rest and we await the discovery of Delphi tomorrow. 

Franz Josef - Wanaka

We soared above the glaciers - Franz Josef and Fox. It was spectacular scenery. We landed on the virgin snow it was indeed an experience not to be missed.

To see one's footsteps imprinted on the as yet untrodden snow was a humbling experience - footsteps that made little impact on the vast terrain unfolding before us. 

It was a beautifu morning - summer had again arrived if as advised briefly. The sun shone and the wind was no more! Yes, we were helicoptering over both glaciers. It was my first time in a helicopter and I thoroughly enjoyed it. The views were stunning as we flew down the Franz Josef glacial valley 

then flying close to the cliff face, we crossed to Fox Glacier 

and then high above the valleys the vast countryside opened up beneath us   - stupendous!! 

Yesterday as we drove from Greymouth to Franz Josef, we traversed the mountaineous route, intersperse briefly by views of the Tasman Sea. Thunder showers accompanied us as we dove.   It was a very scenic drive through the tree canopied mountain, through the Alps. For the mountains were formed at the same period as the European Alps - hence the name. 

We arrived at Franz Josef at 17.00 and luckily found accommodation at an excellent Motel The Alpine Glacier in the middle of town (NZ$175)  

After we alighted from the helicopters, We quitter Franz Josef and traversed the Alps to Wanaka. The sun shone high on the sky and the scenery was spectacular! Densely canopied roads were interjected by vast lakes with their petrol blue waters. The colour is, as I understand it the result of their glacial origins - but you geographers would understand that!. 

Lake Bruce 

was the first lake we encountered , prior to climbing the Haast Pass , through Mt Aspiring National Park - a very steep climb. We then descended in to the coastal plain once again and were met by numerous spectacular waterfalls to our left and the sea to our right. 

The road was very quiet -little traffic considering it is summer holiday s. At the Blue Pool 

we evountered a significant number of tourists. , elsewhere we had the stunning scenery to ourselves. The road from St Josef was quiet and the countryside devoid of habitation. One could travel for miles without seeing any form of habitation such was the inhospitabilty of the environment- only trees could survive here. 

A 1.5 km walk to the pool through a forest path 

and a sky bridge 

that traversed the river, took us to the pool. Two rivers meet here   The bridge over the river acted as a magnet for young people to jump from into the pool below. I thought it dangerous as I could see rocks in the pool below. However Kiwis are made of stronger stuff , it appears, as parents , cameras at the ready, evouaged their off springs to jump from the bridge!!!

Deep, vast lakes backed by snow capped mountains accompanied us as we journeyed on. 

 A we neared Lake  Hawea, 

our journey was approaching its end and the final vista was the site of Lake Wanaka around which the town of Wanaka, is built

The quest for accommodation in Waneka - read tomorrow.....

Lhasa - Lake Namtso

Last night we had dinner at a restaurant compliments of the tibertravel.org . The other couple are Orthodox Jews and eat Kosher food, therefore they have to go vegetarian while on holiday. The food was very good - it and the Dunya restaurant at the Yak hotel were the best we'd had. 

Tonight's accommodation is going to be quite an experience. Lake Namtso Is a holy lake - one cannot even put one's feet in it. 

This morning, we left for Lake Namts.  It is located in the .......... Mountains some 150 km from Lhasa. We have been been joined by people from eight other tours and now we are twelve - all at least thirty years younger than us!! One feels like a student again!!! The group comprises two British, two Americans, three Aussies, one Dutch, one Spanish, one Bulgarian and ourselves- all very friendly. 

The Dutch asked if we were to have a police officer on board?? The guide replied in the negative and informed us  that if the group was under nineteen, the company did not have to INFORM Beijing,  so we would not have a police officer on board.  

The security here is overwhelming. There is a hut every km at edge of railway line, there is a police check point c. every 20km, there are cameras on the tourist busses, there are mobile police and the army is very much present. At all tourist sites there are police and army- I have never seen such security. Each tourist coach is monitored and the driver is admonished by a central control for minor road infringements. If one receives 12 points, one has to resit one's theory  and motor classes again as if a learner. 

I'm here  sitting in a traffic jam on the outskirts of Lhasa! The Chinese are building a ring road around the city. They are demolishing all before them - no respect for the Tibetan culture! Some lovely, traditional  buildings are being bulldozed!   A roadside poster gives an idea of its complexity! It will be completed in a year! I surmise that it would take us ten years to complete a similar project! 

We continued on our journey, repeatedly delayed by numerous army trucks the width of the road. When I tried to video one of them, our guide asked me to desist as if I was seen the army would stop the bus and investigate. When CC tried to surreptitiously take a photo, the Chinese/American lady sitting behind us advised him that there were cameras on the bus! In my travels, as I have never encountered such a police state. 

We stopped for lunch. 

It was poor - rice and vegetables, cold meat which each table of six had to share. Tibet is a poor country and it shows in its cuisine. 

We followed the railway line along the valley - the route we had taken by train to Lhasa. CC was very pleased that three trains passed by - very close to us. We were in the upper valley and the main  activity was nomadic pastoral farming of yaks, sheep and cattle.

The herdsmen spend the summer moving about with their portable houses, which  have for the most part, replaced the tent. In winter they return to houses. 

We passed check point after check point but our passports were not checked. We left the track for the last 60 km. The mountain scenery was spectaculsr 

Finally, we entered the National Park. 

and commenced climbing steeply until we reached the Na Genla Pass, 5,190

meters high, the only entry route to the park.  

We stopped here to get our first glimpse of the lake. It is the highest salt water lake in the world.  It takes 10 days to walk its circumference and should one wish to do so, one must carry one's  own tent and supplies. 

We finally arrived at the camp. What a place - it was a sight to behold, with yaks and dogs ambling around the area. 

A quadrant of shops, restaurants and guest houses i.e. tents to you and me. The guide commenced allocating beds. He invited us to share a tent with two single gentlemen - a Dutch and a Spaniard. It was the best offer I have gotten to date!! However CC wasn't keen so we settled for a double room. 

It had been a long journey. We had departed Lhasa at 0930 hrs and arrived here at 1730 hrs with only a half hour for lunch and a short break at the Pass. 

We walked to the lake's edge 

to see the sunset but as it was cloudy, it was not a spectacular sunset - I have shown you better, dear reader.

It was very cold - c 4 degrees with a biting wind. Luckily, I had purchased a pashmina at a shop near the lunch stop, which inured me from the cold breeze rising off the lake. 

After sunset, we returned to the guest house for dinner. It was  quite acceptable. 

We retired. It is bitterly cold and will fall below freezing after midnight!  There is no heat in the room and an electric blanket is making little impression! 

Good night !! 

Macon - Troyes - Sers

Last night we stayed in Macon in an excellent Logis in the square. 

This morning we left for Sens via Troyes, to do some retail therapy at Mc Arthur's Outlet. 

It was a very spectacular drive through the Paris Basin. Fellow geographers will appreciate my claim. At one stage Madam Sat Nav brought us into the Cote               d'Or, a forested area, but this was the exception,  as the vast, agricultural Plain stretched out before us - all very systematic in the planting. The farms here are large and this was evident in the absence of much settlement except the villages which interspersed the landscape at intervals. 

The sides of the Côte d'Or were covered in vines. As we drove through the Champagne region, we called at a chateau for a tasting and added to our wine collection!!! 

Having splashed the cash, we repaired to Sens and found an olde worlde hotel. Our hostess runs the adjacent bar. She advised of a restaurant, Cafe de Paris. It was a good meal if not excellent. A French couple spoke to us as we quitted the restaurant- Parisians about to commence a walking holiday. 

We adjourned to a local hostelry, where again we were estoppeded to enquire as to our country of origin.  Of course , we are always British.! 

We  returned to our hotel. 

Xian. (Pronounced She Anne)

We departed punctually at 1846 on our 141/2 hour journey to Xian. The Roman numerals were the only way we had of distinguishing our train. There was a p.a. system but it was impossible to hear such was the din - Z92 was our train. 

A half hour before departure, the gates opened and one entered the platform. Travelling first class meant that the carriage was at the end of the escalator. Some passengers had a long walk - such was the length of the train. 

I did promise you a rating - what do you think Rovos Rail or Tasara?

If Rovos Rail is 10 and Tasara is 1, the Xian train is 5. 

We took a First Class Soft Class - I think we were the only occupants of the entire carriage. The train had numerous carriages but most took a cheaper option. As far as I am aware, we were the only westerners on board, most people would fly here!! The staff spoke no English so it was all sign language. Now soft class is a misnomer- it was the hardest bed I've ever slept in!! In addition, I had to climb to the top bunk without the aid of a ladder.  There's agility in the old bones yet! 

I slept reasonably well, in spite of the frequent sound of the train horn. When I awoke in the early morning, it was foggy/smoggy outside. We passed station after station, cities we've never heard of with populations the size of Ireland! Trains frequently passed - the longest I've seen of both passenger and freight, particularly the freight trains appeared to have never ending wagons. 

It was very foggy and on arrival in Xian, a half an hour late, the fog hadn't lifted. It is probably more smog than fog! 

On arrival , all human life was in and around the station, with map sellers, taxi touts etc. 

Espying a Mc Donald's, we decided to have breakfast there - a breakfast Mc Muffin and a coffee- any port in a storm. 

We taxied to the hotel - again a Sofitel as in Guangzhou. It is on the one complex with a Mercure and the People's Grand  Legend Hotel  opened in 1953, during Mao's reign! A legend hotel is more than 50 years of age and this is Sofitel's 5th in the world. It has hosted royalty such as Princess Margaret, Henry Kissinger, Francois Mitterand, The Clinton family, Michelle Obama and many Asian rulers. It was closed on 2010 for a revamp and re-opened in 2014 and an excellent refurbishment it was too. 

 

We were informed that we are being given a complimentary upgrade to Club Class and to a suite.. As a result we are entitled to use the Club Lounge, which entitles us to complimentary breakfast, all day snacks and wine and snacks in the evenings!  The suite is huge with a generous bathroom. 

This time of year is an ideal time to visit as, with the exception of the New Year, it is the low season, prices are competitive and one can sightsee without the crowds.

Just arrived - I'm not going home!! 

The concierge had said that we should walk to the Muslim Quarter nearby. However, we were advised to purchase some face masks as the pollution warning was orange. Gaye and Marie - guess who made them - yes 3M!!

We walked the km along a lovely wide boulevard with flower boxes suspended from the railings. 

We arrived the gate of the Muslim Quarter 

and entered a very vibrant area with all sorts of commerce co- existing side by side   ..... food preparation, 

cigarette being rolled, hair combs being sculpted and dough being stretched against the nearest pole

and baked in addition to numerous souvenir shops where one could buy one's own Terracotta Army.! 

We saw eggs of unusual colours and other unidentifiable foods. 

We tasted huashenggao (delicious peanut cakes) and a pastry stuffed with caramels and purchased a box of Wild Walnut cakes. 

There were huge urns dispensing noodles, soups and meat dishes of various types. 

We might have cycled the wall, which once enclose the old town,  but thought the better of it as the smog was increasing

They have city bicycles and we may use  them  - smog obliging - to cycle the city walls -14 km.  We'll see what the fog / smog level is like on Friday? Tomorrow we're going to see the Terracorta Warriors. The historic site is c 40 km from Xian. 

Presently, we're off to the Club Lounge for smog downers!!