We departed punctually at 1846 on our 141/2 hour journey to Xian. The Roman numerals were the only way we had of distinguishing our train. There was a p.a. system but it was impossible to hear such was the din - Z92 was our train.
A half hour before departure, the gates opened and one entered the platform. Travelling first class meant that the carriage was at the end of the escalator. Some passengers had a long walk - such was the length of the train.
I did promise you a rating - what do you think Rovos Rail or Tasara?
If Rovos Rail is 10 and Tasara is 1, the Xian train is 5.
We took a First Class Soft Class - I think we were the only occupants of the entire carriage. The train had numerous carriages but most took a cheaper option. As far as I am aware, we were the only westerners on board, most people would fly here!! The staff spoke no English so it was all sign language. Now soft class is a misnomer- it was the hardest bed I've ever slept in!! In addition, I had to climb to the top bunk without the aid of a ladder. There's agility in the old bones yet!
I slept reasonably well, in spite of the frequent sound of the train horn. When I awoke in the early morning, it was foggy/smoggy outside. We passed station after station, cities we've never heard of with populations the size of Ireland! Trains frequently passed - the longest I've seen of both passenger and freight, particularly the freight trains appeared to have never ending wagons.
It was very foggy and on arrival in Xian, a half an hour late, the fog hadn't lifted. It is probably more smog than fog!
On arrival , all human life was in and around the station, with map sellers, taxi touts etc.
Espying a Mc Donald's, we decided to have breakfast there - a breakfast Mc Muffin and a coffee- any port in a storm.
We taxied to the hotel - again a Sofitel as in Guangzhou. It is on the one complex with a Mercure and the People's Grand Legend Hotel opened in 1953, during Mao's reign! A legend hotel is more than 50 years of age and this is Sofitel's 5th in the world. It has hosted royalty such as Princess Margaret, Henry Kissinger, Francois Mitterand, The Clinton family, Michelle Obama and many Asian rulers. It was closed on 2010 for a revamp and re-opened in 2014 and an excellent refurbishment it was too.
We were informed that we are being given a complimentary upgrade to Club Class and to a suite.. As a result we are entitled to use the Club Lounge, which entitles us to complimentary breakfast, all day snacks and wine and snacks in the evenings! The suite is huge with a generous bathroom.
This time of year is an ideal time to visit as, with the exception of the New Year, it is the low season, prices are competitive and one can sightsee without the crowds.
Just arrived - I'm not going home!!
The concierge had said that we should walk to the Muslim Quarter nearby. However, we were advised to purchase some face masks as the pollution warning was orange. Gaye and Marie - guess who made them - yes 3M!!
We walked the km along a lovely wide boulevard with flower boxes suspended from the railings.
We arrived the gate of the Muslim Quarter
and entered a very vibrant area with all sorts of commerce co- existing side by side ..... food preparation,
cigarette being rolled, hair combs being sculpted and dough being stretched against the nearest pole
and baked in addition to numerous souvenir shops where one could buy one's own Terracotta Army.!
We saw eggs of unusual colours and other unidentifiable foods.
We tasted huashenggao (delicious peanut cakes) and a pastry stuffed with caramels and purchased a box of Wild Walnut cakes.
There were huge urns dispensing noodles, soups and meat dishes of various types.
We might have cycled the wall, which once enclose the old town, but thought the better of it as the smog was increasing
They have city bicycles and we may use them - smog obliging - to cycle the city walls -14 km. We'll see what the fog / smog level is like on Friday? Tomorrow we're going to see the Terracorta Warriors. The historic site is c 40 km from Xian.
Presently, we're off to the Club Lounge for smog downers!!
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