We had some difficulty finding the platform. In fairness, the station is being renovated and from my first observations of Sofia's Central Station, it certainly needs it. If it turns out as successful as the underground, it will be a passenger friendly facility. At present there are no digital displays on the platforms. We spent about 20 minutes going to and fro until we found the correct train of three on the same platform.
We've just set off and on time too- 1845. One would certainly need to arrive at the station in plenty of time to ensure one was caught the correct train.
The train is far superior to its Serbian counterparts and we are not confined to a couchette but have four seats to ourselves. I hope subsequent trains follow suit?
We spent the day further exploring Sophia . It is a very walkable city. We set off for the National Palace of Culture (Soviet Style) It was basically a concert cum convention centre with a panoramic view of the city from the 8th floor.
Back at ground level, we had a coffee, while espying a huge sculpture. We were intrigued - our waiter, who was definitely not born subsequent to 1989, described it as an embarrassment . It too evoked the Soviet era and it was in the process of being replaced by a more appropriate sculpture!
From there we walked down Votosha Bl - a pedestrianised street fronted by numerous shops exhibiting American and European designer labels. As a good salary is 600 leva per week ( c 2 lea to Euro) I assume, only the minority could afford to shop here. Observing how people dress would support my thesis. The BL was also lined with outdoor coffee shops and the locals were lunching and enjoying the September sunshine (20+ degrees).
We continued walking until we reached the Grand Hotel Sophia, where we enjoyed a gourmet lunch which would rival Patrick Guilbaud's in terms of presentation, ambience, service and quality. On my return visit, I would definitely stay at this hotel.
We walked back to our hotel, collected our bags and left for the railway station.
The train departed at 1845 as scheduled. We were not aware of any other foreigners on the train. The conductor did not speak any English, which was a surprise, as all to date had. Eventually a young girl translated for us.
We were to alight at Yabalkovo and take a bus to the Turkish border. We spent 21/2 hours at Kapikule station (Turkish border from where we had expected to take a train to within c a half hour of Istanbul). The reason for the buses is that both countries are upgrading their tracks. There will be a high speed line from the Turkish border to Istanbul, to be completed in 2028 so I don't expect I'll be travelling on that line.
The checks at the border were the most thorough that I have ever experienced. Firstly passports were checked, passport and visa and then our bags were put through a scanner. We were subsequently sent to separate male and female sections to be bodily searched and finally our bags went through the scanner again.
As for the bus - it was thoroughly searched, put up on a ramp and checked under carriage. Two and a half hours later, we left in a Turkish bus - a new bus and a major improvement on the original bus. Information was scant and confused; whether we missed the train because our Bulgarian driver lost her way for a time or whether we were never to have boarded another train is a question that is difficult to answer. We met up with some English and American passengers at the border and each had a different set of instructions.! The man in seat 61 has given up trying to advise people on this route as it is constantly changing. He now relies on passengers to keep him updated ...
At 07.10, we arrived at Istanbul railway station. Istanbul is so developed in comparison to Bulgaria. Maybe the Bulgarians should have remained part of the Ottoman Empire instead large numbers of Bulgarians laid down their lives in war against the Turks in the late 19th century. The cathedral in Sofia was erected to commemorate their bravery.
At the station, we saw the Orient Express restaurant but it hadn't opened for business
as yet this morning so we went across the street to breakfast in the famous Hazif Mustafa cafe, established 1864, famous for Turkish Delight.
While we breakfasted, we gazed fown on the Bosphorus.
We took a taxi to hotel. Our room was not ready so we awaited its availability in the impressive lounge.
More on the famous Pera Palace; the choice of Orient Express passengers such as Aghata Christie and Ernest Hemingway, later.
More later.......
No comments:
Post a Comment