Addendum - Izmir and Ephesus

Cold TURKEY ???

I had not intended to do another blog but the last two days were interesting..

We continued to Izmir as there is a direct flight to Dublin. 

We left Istanbul and took a ferry across the Sea of Marmar to Bandirma, where we  overnighted. Next morning we departed on the 0700 train to Izmir. As we had bussed it to Istanbul because of track works, this was our first experience of Turkish trains , which were excellent; very modern with digital displays of stations in many.

Arriving in Ismeer, a taxi took us to our hotel,  which we had only booked online the day before. It was an excellent hotel, the Metz boutique and very convenient to      the station for Ephesus and the airport, though we  had  arrived at another station just a short taxi ride from the hotel.

According to the archaeological finds, Izmir was first mentioned 3000BC . Heredos described it 'as a city under the most sublime blue sky and on the remarkable  climate' . 

Homer was born here. The Iliad and the Odyssey epics were written by Homer about the city and its surroundings.

We arrived around 1400 and set off for the promenade - about 15 minutes walk from the hotel

It was a fantastic vista as we lunched, looking out on the Aegean Sea.  The only problem was that we had to try a few restaurants before we found one serving alcohol. This city appears to be similar to the Baptist belt we visited in the deep American South when we drove Route 66, 3 years ago. 

After lunch, we walked along the promenade. 

It was certainly not ' fuair' - the temperature was in the 30s - hotter than any place to date. 

We visited the square, where the local mosque was calling the faithful to prayer.

Later that evening, we repaired to the waterfront to have dinner. We chose a restaurant that had won numerous awards for authentic local food. It had hosted such guests a Warren Beatty, Chelsea Clinton and numerous Hollywood stars. 

The following morning, having had one of the top two breakfasts of our trip ( the other was in Cuneo, however,  we hadn't time to enjoy it as we had to make an early train), we set off for Ephesus,

Suffice it to say that relying  on train anoracks is not always a bright idea.  

The train was departing Selcuk, our intended stop, when a passenger, seeing our distress, had  the train stopped and we jumped off.!  The train had left the platform..... I doubt Irish Rail would do same ?

Interestingly, The Virgin Mary is reputed to have spent her final days in the company of John the apostle at Selcuk. John is reputed to have written some  of his Gospel here. 

We then took the 5 minute ride to Ephesus. On arrival, we were met by an awesome sight! It was utterly stunning!  The following is just a small flavour of what awaits you on your trip to Ephesus. 

It has Greek, Roman and Christian associations. A church was erected  in the Virgin Mary at Ephesus.

We continued  to the Theatre which must have seated 10s of 1000s

And thence to:

Izmir is a growing port for cruisers so it is difficult to avoid them at Ephesus. In addition, it is close to the airport, so a lengthy stopover  enables a trip to Epheus. 

A Mosaic: 

A street:

Umbrellas are useful - kept off the rain in the Arena at Verona and the sun at Ephesus. It was 32degrees in the shade at Selcuk station - it must have been 40 + at Ephesus.

Departed Izmir on 41/2 hr direct flight to Dublin. 

End. 

Final days - Istanbul

Final  blog delayed  - too busy clubbing in Nevizade.,.,, more later...,..

This morning, we took a late breakfast at a cafe near the hotel. I have become quite a fan of the Turkish breakfast.

We then took had a tour of the hotel, including Ataturk's hotel room, now a museum . He was first President of the Republic of Turkey, after Turkey gained independence from the Ottoman Empire. He stayed here many times in his favourite room ; room 101. We were neighbours in room 116! The room contains many memorabilia. 

We continued our tour of the hotel admiring a book dedicated to Agatha Christie

and a sedan that the porters used, to ferry people from the Orient Express, to the hotel. 

It claims to have been the first hotel  to have installed electricity after the electrification of the Ottoman  palaces, the first  to have an electric elevator and running hot water!

They are very proud of their distinguished guests; in addition to those already mentioned, they have also received Edward V111, Hitchcock and Greta Garbo. 

There is an undercurrent of discontent in  Istanbul and police with their riot  shields and water cannons are ever present. This morning there was a peaceful 'sit down' demonstration for the numerous people  who have disappeared without trace while in police custody 

John went to Sirekeci railway station to visit the railway museum and I continued to Sultanahmet  Square to revisit the Blue Mosque. En route, I was reminded that enterprise will be part of Turkish culture as long  as one young man is alive....

It was 1450hrs and the mosque was closing to visitors for prayers  at 1600hrs  While queueing, I fell into conversation with a Californian man, Brian, who was on a cruise from Greece, around the Balkans, to Rome. He wondered if the infinite queue would deny us access before 1600. We hoped not and the time slipped by as he related the advantages and disadvantages  of a cruise . He is a veteran cruiser and traveller. Subsequent to the  completion of the cruise , he is to holiday for a week in Italy followed by two weeks in Paris - his favourite city. I advised him that Rome was mine! 

The queue moved quickly and we entered the mosque at 1520.  It was as beautiful as I remember it.  One could stand forever and gaze with wonder at the stunning craftsmanship of its creators. 

I sat in the Square drinking in the wonder of it all. I did not revisit Topkapi Palace, Hagia or the Bazaar. 

 

I then commenced my journey back to the hotel scrutinising the subway map, as I had decided to try a different route home. I had to retrace my steps once but overall the journey was a success including riding the oldest funicular in Istanbul. The last leg of the journey was to take a tram. I knew that I was near the hotel but I was afraid to walk as it was quite likely that I would lose my way! 

When after 20 minutes, there was no sign of a tram, I asked the girl seated beside me if a tram was due and as to whether or not my ticket was valid. She thought my ticket was not and insisted on paying for me with her card, refusing to take the fare from me. We chatted for a while and she told me she had anIrish  friend who tells her that the Turks are similar to the Irish! Who was I to contradict an Irishman living in Istanbul for 10 years ? 

As we continued to wait, she told me that I was near the hotel but that she was afraid to give me directions in case I got lost. I said I'd try as it was getting late, so she gave me directions urging me to check with others  as I went. Her directions were perfect and I reached the hotel in minutes.

We had arranged to meet emigrant son and friend at our hotel at 1900. On arrival, we gave them a quick tour, an aperitif in the lounge and set out for Nevizade; the Temple Bar of Istanbul. 

Earlier in the day, I had asked the concierge at our hotel if she would book a table for us at a restaurant named after the area? A very concerned young lady said that the hotel didn't advise their patrons to frequent the area!! I said we would be accompanied by two young men and she appeared visibly relieved. 

We had a second aperitif in a local bazaar and proceeded to the area - minutes from OUR hotel. The boys were complaining that the area around their hotel, on the European side, was very quiet - trust the oldies to locate near the action!! Next time they come to Istanbul, they are definitely staying on the Asian side (most of the top sights are on the European side!!) 

We proceeded to Nevizade - what a lively place - every young Istanbulondon (?) and tourist must have been out and the decibel level was breaking the sound barrier!!  The ceaseless patrol of the police helicopters above adding to the din.

We arrived at the restaurant and the Maitre D' was charm itself. It was not as I expected of the top restaurant in the area  - very large and noisy but the boys were delighted with the buzz. The  food was good with an excellent selection. We left the boys at 2300 to enjoy the delights of the area and we retreated to the peace of our hotel for a digestif. 

Reflections: 

The trip was a great success and not as arduous as I had expected. We made every connection - every train and connecting bus was on time,

To cross from Western Europe to Eastern Europe was not frought with difficulty as I had expected - Slovenia was highly developed, Croatia less so. Serbia appeared to be least developed but is only to be expected after the war, Bulgaria very poor unlike its Turkish neighbour. As we progressed down through the Balkan states the standard of living appeared to decline until we reached Istanbul, where the standard is high. 

While we encountered some amazing sights, it was the people we met along the way , who made the journey most interesting - they told us their stories and were fascinated with our plan to recreate an Orient Express experience, almost 100 years later, this sevice commenced 1919). 

While every place we travelled through had its charms and excepting the Western European cities, of which many, dear readers, you are familiar with, the places that most charmed me were Verona (if you haven't been, you must experience an opera or a concert in the Arena), Trieste (underrated in guide books), Sofia (a charming city and well worth a week-end - must check with elder son if Ryanair fly there?) and  of course Istanbul - it never fails to please.

There are some errors in this blog, of which I  am  acutely aware  - my only excuse is that under pressure to blog each evening, it was a matter of publish or be damned !!  But there is  one unforgivable error which I realised just as I published - did you spot it, dear reader?

Istanbul

IWe were allowed early check-in at the Jumeriah Pera Palace.  We chose the hotel because it was one of the hotels that received travellers on the Orient Express. 

It is a little like a museum with old / antique furniture and rooms dedicated to Ernest Hemingway and Aghata Christie. 

The lounge was originally the dining room and men had to wear DARK suits at dinner on Thursday and Saturday nights. In 1943, hot water was only available until 10 pm because of a shortage of coal. 

When we were shown to our room, we rode the antique elevator - the first in Istanbul.  It is not in general use. 

There is a patisserie cafereria with the most mouth watering  temptations and afternoon tea is served each afternoon in the lounge. I had an excellent pot of tea there. It was beautifully served.

The bedrooms are bedecked in old world luxury, with lofty, highly adorned ceilings together with modern touches  -  curtains close with the touch of a button 

Tonight we had dinner with Agatha in her restaurant. She told me that it is only supposition that she wrote 'Murder on the Orient Express' here. 

I had an Daquari to honour Earnest but he wasn't about, perhaps he was in Cuba or In the Florida Keys? 

This Is not my first visit to Istanbul . I spent a few days here on my return from

Japan four years ago . It is hard to re-create one's initial reaction to this vibrant city.

This afternoon we strolled up Istiklal Street and arrived in Taksim Square. The street was thronged with people similar to Grafton Street on Christmas Eve but multiplied by infinity! In the midst of the otherwise pedestrianised area run two, old trams, hooting people out of their or  awaiting some service vehicles to vacate their rails.  

As we had journeyed all through last night, we were flagging earlier,so it is an early night for us - ready to walk the European part of Istanbul tomorrow. 

Last blog tomorrow....

Sophia to Istanbul overnight !

Sitting on the train - now awaiting the final leg to Istanbul.

We had some difficulty finding the platform. In fairness, the station is being renovated and from my first observations of Sofia's Central Station, it certainly needs it. If it turns out as successful as the underground, it will be a passenger friendly facility. At present there  are no digital displays on the platforms. We spent about 20 minutes going to and fro until we found the correct train of three on the same platform. 

We've just set off and on time too- 1845. One would certainly need to arrive at the station in plenty of time to ensure one was caught the correct train. 

The train is far superior to its Serbian counterparts and we are not confined to a couchette but have four seats to ourselves. I hope subsequent trains follow suit?

We spent the day further exploring Sophia . It is a very walkable city.  We set off for the National Palace of  Culture  (Soviet  Style) It was basically a concert cum convention centre with a panoramic view of the city from the 8th floor. 

Back at ground level, we had a coffee,  while espying a huge sculpture. We were   intrigued - our waiter, who was definitely not born subsequent to 1989, described it as an embarrassment . It too evoked the Soviet era  and it was in the process of being replaced by a more appropriate sculpture! 

From there we walked down Votosha Bl -  a pedestrianised street fronted by numerous shops exhibiting American and European designer labels. As a good salary is 600 leva per week ( c 2 lea to Euro) I assume, only the minority could afford to shop here. Observing how people dress would support my thesis. The BL was also lined with outdoor coffee shops and the locals were lunching and enjoying the September sunshine (20+ degrees). 

We continued walking until we reached the Grand Hotel Sophia, where we enjoyed a gourmet lunch which would rival Patrick Guilbaud's in terms of presentation, ambience, service and quality. On my return visit, I would definitely stay at this hotel. 

We walked back to our hotel, collected our bags and left for the railway station. 

The train departed  at 1845 as scheduled. We were not aware of any other foreigners on the train. The conductor did not speak any English, which was a surprise, as all to date had. Eventually a young girl translated for us. 

We were to alight at Yabalkovo and take a  bus to the Turkish border. We spent 21/2 hours at Kapikule station (Turkish border from where we had expected to take a train to within c a half hour of Istanbul). The reason for the buses is that both countries are upgrading their tracks. There will be a high speed line from the Turkish border to Istanbul, to be completed in 2028 so I don't expect I'll be travelling on that line. 

The checks at the border were the most thorough that I have ever experienced. Firstly passports were checked, passport and visa and then our bags were put through a scanner. We were subsequently sent to separate male and female sections to be bodily searched and finally our bags went through the scanner again. 

As for the bus - it was thoroughly searched, put up on a ramp and checked under carriage.  Two and a half hours later, we left in a Turkish bus - a new bus and a major improvement on the original bus. Information was scant and confused; whether we missed the train because our Bulgarian driver lost her way for a time or whether we were never to have boarded another train is a question that is difficult to answer.  We met up with some English and American passengers at the border and each had a different set of instructions.! The man in seat 61 has given up trying to advise people on this route as it is constantly changing. He now relies on  passengers to keep him updated ...

At 07.10, we arrived at Istanbul railway station. Istanbul is so developed in comparison to Bulgaria. Maybe the Bulgarians should  have remained part of the Ottoman Empire instead large numbers of Bulgarians laid down their lives in war against the Turks in the late 19th century. The cathedral in Sofia was erected to commemorate their bravery.

At the station, we saw the Orient Express restaurant but it hadn't opened for business 

as yet this morning so we went across the street to breakfast in the famous Hazif Mustafa cafe, established 1864, famous for Turkish Delight. 

While we breakfasted, we gazed fown on the Bosphorus.

 

We took a taxi to hotel. Our room was  not ready so we awaited its availability in the impressive lounge. 

More on the famous Pera Palace; the choice of Orient Express passengers such as Aghata Christie and Ernest Hemingway, later.

More later.......