Livingstone to Lusaka.

Livingstone - Lusaka 480 Km

We had arranged with last night's taxi driver to collect my present companion and take him to the bus station to purchase our bus tickets to Lusaka (€10 for 7 1/2 hour journey). We had intended to take a train but as I previously mentioned,  the train schedule changed without notice. The Jubilee train, a revamped train now runs only on Sundays. If we were to take it , we would only have had 4 hours in Vic Falls!! The other trains were reputed to be extremely dirty and while I might endure it for a day trip, I was not sleeping overnight in one!!!! 

I already had one experience of that type of train from Hoi Chi Mhin City to Hanoi ( Vietnam) and I don't intend to repeat it. I also suspect this experience might be worse? So it had to be a BUS... I

On the return journey, my constant companion was dropped off at the Railway Museum , where else you may ask, dear reader? The taxi driver then returned him to the hotel where I joined him and we were taken to the station. 

On the way, we had a good tour of Livingstone. It is a 'real' town as opposed to the artificiality of Vic Falls. There are some fine colonial buildings, most in a somewhat dilapidated condition.   

As I've discovered the word maintenance doesn't appear to be in the African vocabulary!!

The station was just a kiosk with some spaces for the busses to park.  

As the taxi man departed, we realised that my companion's  ruck sack was still in the taxi. Luckily we had his card from last night and an employee of the Bus Company insisted on ringing him for us. He returned; the bag in tact, unlike  the previous experience. We're getting careless!  

 

We were there an hour early but time the wait passed pleasantly as we watched Livingstone's citizenry go about their daily lives. 

The Zambian people are very gentle and kind- when we could not buy some minerals, as the shop could not change the note, a young man offered to pay but we declined He too was waiting for the bus. He informed me that the bus was coming from the Namibian border, that he had tried to board further up the road but the bus was full and he got a taxi to Livingstone as many people would alight here. He apoeared to be a well travelled young man.  

The bus arrived. Though we took the Shalom Bus Company  bus - one of only two companies recommended - the bus was quite old and in need of a lot of TLC. The floor was dirty and hadn't been attended to for sometime. For the first time, we were glad we had brought Travel wipes. 

Loading the cases was a challenge as the bus also carried freight. We set off  at precisely 11.30 hrs as scheduled. No music - mercifully the video system was broken so the cotton wool remained unused! We had seen a newer bus at the station and lamented we were not to travel on it.  It even had business class, (that would have been a first) but to be spared the loud gospel music was a plus - 7 1/2hrs of it might have tested my endurance. 

We stopped at various towns as we loaded and unloaded passenger and freight but it was all done quickly and efficiently.

 We had two 10 minute breaks. 

 

At the first, my travelling companion said that the toilets were filthy and not to go in. At the next break a lady told me that I  would find clean toilets and for 2 Kawatcha one could use the PRIVATE toilet, in which,  one was provided with toilet paper and soap. They were very clean. 

We followed the railway line but there was not a train to be seen during our entire journey. It appears that the Zambian Government brought in a foreign consortium to run the railways but  they are obviously not up to the job! 

We were the only two whites on board.

As we passed through the countryside, we saw the poverty - people living in mud huts.

A project has been launched in Southern Africa to have people make bricks from mud and this will enable them to build a more substantial home 

but in the towns are quite substantial houses - I assume the property of the emerging middle class. In the countryside too the odd Ranch was to be seen - a remnant of their colonial past.   

As we left Livingstone woodland filled countryside,    

later areas of cattle, sheep and goats and  around the town of  Mazabuka; a large sugar cane growing area was to be seen. 

Education is very important. There are public posters everywhere extolling the virtues of education and at 1600hrs, we saw the children in their various uniforms; all beautifully presented, making their way home from school - some in the towns , others going home through the fields. They wear their uniforms with pride. We also passed a number of teacher training colleges. This  emphasis on education ogres well for the future of Zambia

Dear learned colleagues at the LL there's always a job here if you fancy s change!!

Religion is very imporatnt to the Zambians and there is a substantial church of some Christian denomination in every town and village together with a primary and secondary school - some private. 

The bus eventually pulled into Lusaka station at 1900hrs. It was manic there - all the taxi men shouting at the passengers as to whether they wanted a taxi or not. We declined and came outside and got a taxi ; after the usual negotiation (you never get in a taxi without establishing the fare in advance)  and we arrived at the  Best Western Lusaka Grand Plus. We were checked in, in minutes and went to our room When we tipped the porter he said 'God bless you' when did you hear that from a porter last? 

Victoria Falls to Livingstone

Sorry dear reader - went off air. It seems I'll have to divide my blog on day 14 in Vic Falls - too many photos and it has held me up as I tried unsuccessfully to download! 

We spent yesterday at Vic Falls - around the pool and relaxing in the very comfortable lounges. At 1600 hrs  we got a taxi to Livingstone. I felt as though I was an exchange spy or captive. We arrived at the Zim border 

and went to  immigration - they stamped us out. We passed customs and then our taxi driver got into another car and drove us to the Zambian immigration. I had checked online earlier as to the amount of the  visa, only to discover that Ireland was exempt  - we were the only western country listed as exempt. I can only conclude that it is because,  if i recall correctly, we had or may still have a bilateral aid programme with Zambia. The lady at Immigration was extremely friendly unlike her Zim counterpart!

We now crossed the border into Zam and transferred to another taxi, that eventually brought us to our hotel. 

During the transfers I left a sun hat that I  had bought at Rovis rail  in Pretoria in  the last taxi. It was the best sun hat I have ever had. It was passed by the cancer society as suitable for up to 50*c.   Though I missed it almost immediately. It could not be found.....

Within minute, we arrived at the Oriental Swan Hotel c 2 km from the Town centre. (€80) Most hotels were out on game reserves but as we were overnighting, we wanted to stay in town. We needed to get some Kawatcha ( local currency - no US $ here, unlike Zim so we set out for the town centre. We were advised that it would take 15 minutes - it took double that!

We found a bank, with a secure ATM 

machine. We put the card in or my travelling companion did. ( I take no responsibility for the following) Initially, we were too slow , then it confused us as to the multiples we could take out and eventually the machine swallowed the card!! While we looked at one another in confusion,  and wondering where to go from here,  a man stuck his head out of the door of the bank! He said he could retrieve it and if we could give him the name on the card , he would return it . 

He retrieved the card , CC gave him his name and he gave it too him - couldn't see such service from an Irish bank?

We then noticed a place we had read of in our guide, namely Olgas - an Italian restaurant / hotel. Unfortunately, we had tried to book the hotel, but all nine rooms were full. We decided to eat at the restaurant - Italian. The proceeds go to educating homeless children. 

The pizza was the best that I have ever eaten. The homemade ravioli was divine all washed down with a SA Shiraz! As we had not intended to stay out after dark, the Mosquitos would have had us for dinner but for the restaurant  providing us with mosquito spray.! 

The clientele was white and no doubt most  had read The Lonely Planet  guide book - the power of these guides!! As we entered, there were three young girls sitting at a table. We asked them if they had  taken a bus to Livingstone from Lusaka and what the taxi fares were ? 

The girls were three nurses from Finland, doing a three month semester in Livingstone hospital.  They informed us that they had taken a bus from Lusaka to Livingstone and that gospel music was played loudly throughout the 7 hour journey. They added that even with earphones  they could not escape the music! I advised that we did not have earphones but decided that I'd plug my ears with cotton wool! They were so helpful with their advice and told us of their trials and tribulations over the past 6 weeks! What they missed most was rye bread. 

I asked if they intended going bungee jumping or helicopter touring but they said they would not - they were afraid, though at least one of the three,  to her mother's chargin, said she intended to try the infinity pool, where one can swim and peek  over Vic Falls!!!!!

We returned by Taxi to the hotel and only the realised how far we had walked  - in excess of two kilometres!  

  

Victoria Falls

We arrived in Victoria at 10.00 to the sounds of African dancers and musicians. The Victoria Falls hotel was built in 1904 and is the oldest hotel in Zimbabwe. 

As the hotel is metres from Victoria train station - the red carpet was laid out for us!! 

There was a delay in getting a room as the other guests had just checked out.  However, it was no hardship as we waited, comfortably seated in the lounge.

 

We acquired our room and then went on a discovery mission around  the hotel. It has a beautiful setting and one can see Vic Falls Bridge from the garden but not the Falls just the spray!!

We took a walk towards the Falls and fell upon 'The Lookout Cafe'. We were trying to shake off a fellow with a high via vest displaying 'Tourist Police' ! He was trying sell  tours. From the cafe, one could see young people high wiring it across the gorge. If their parents knew? 

When we left the cafe, our policeman was still there but after awhile he pointed us in the direction of Vic Falls town. We gave him a couple of dollars and he left us in peace. It is not a town in the true sense of the word - a place lined with tour agents and souvenir shops. The U.S. $ is the unit iof currency in Zim and its 1,2 or 3 dollars - no such thing as cents.  

We returned to the hotel and had Afternoon Tea on Stanley Terrace.  It is an institution here and it didn't disappoint. 

We had dined so well on the train that we skipped dinner on had a drink again on Stanley Terrace 

On our return to our room , a guest asked CC  if he'd been on the Sunset Cruise this evening He said he had not but was going tomorrow. It appears he was on it and thought CC was too. He and his wife are English but live in Perth and he is CEO of an organisation to do with animal welfare - I can't recall the name of it. We chatted for a time  and he gave us an account of Cecil's demise before we all retired to our respective rooms.

Tomorrow - Vic Falls and Sunset  Cruise while tonight we sleep under mosquito nets - a first ! 

 

To Victoria Falls Zimbabwe / Zambia

Yesterday, while we were at the farm, the Zimbabwean immigration officials came on board and gave us our visas $ 45 for Zim but if you want Zim and Zam

(Zimbabwe and Zambia ) it's €70 pp. - no visas necessary for South Africa or Botswana.!! 

The train stopped for a few hours last night to give the light sleepers a chance to get some rest. 

It's now moving again. The line here is woeful. I think that the traiin's departure awoke me. It's now 0630 hrs and I'm writing this blog. It is difficult as the train is swinging - Botswana rail has a much better track!! 

Thankfully it has stopped, I'm too lazy to look out  to see where we are. I hear rumblings again - we'll probably be off any minute. 

Today, it's early lunch as we are  going on safari in the Hwange National Park - home of late Cecil.  It's meals, drinks, conversation and the odd foray  off train - actually to date one of the former. and too much of the latter!!!

We alighted from the train and were put into safari 4 wheel drives with only 6 passengers in each, so every passenger had a good view.  This was where Cecil was killed - indeed our ranger showed us the spot where it occurred and advised that Cecil is a great loss to the park as he came close to the vehicles  so everyone experienced seeing a lion. His friend, Jericho, the lion, is taking over his territory but he is not as sociable as Cecil. We did not see him 

However, it was a great game drive. We had elephants come up to the jeep. 

  

We also saw giraffes, whirley  beasts, zebras, a jackal, antelope, ostriches, monkeys and warthogs together with numerous beautifully feathered birds. The afternoon ended with a sundowner around a camp fire at sunset and what a spectacular sunset it was. 

When we arrived some of our friends asked why we were so late ? I gave the reason: an American couple on our jeep decided they wanted to go back directly to the train, which necessitated a deviation of 10 minutes in all. No apology or consultation with us or the French couple in the jeep! I find the Americans so utterly self centred! At the shop in the Rovis Rail station in Pretoria, another American held up everyone as she insisted on putting the declined credit cards through the machine numerous times, totally oblivious to the inconvenience being caused to other passengers. My audience , mainly British were in fits of laughter. 

I also recall arising early one morning to climb the Olgas in Central Australia. The guides emphasised that there was a steep descent and if anyone was not comfortable with this fact, they should not come as the two guides had to remain with the party at all times. If someone failed to progress, everyone would have to return. We reached the incline, a young American girl refused  the descent. We had to all return without completing our climb. Do you think she apologised, of course not, she was too concerned at how she could never make a descent such as that!!

 

We returned to the train for dinner at 20.00 hrs. It was our last evening so it was more formal than usual. Our waiters were dressed in tuxedos and everyone was dressed 'to the hilt' We dined with Scottish friends Harry and Evelyn from near Glasgow. 

Here is a view of the type of meals served for lunch and dinner each day

 

 

with an appropriate wine served with each course and if a particular wine was not to your taste, you could choose another from an extensive wine list. 

We all retired to the lounge  car for a night cap. It had been a fantastic trip - extremely enjoyable! Tomorrow we arrive in Victoria Falls at 10.00 hrs and check in to the Victoria Falls Hotel..

Botswana - Zimbabwe

U

We're now in Botswana. 

We crossed the border late last night / early this morning at Mafiking. We were advised that the emigration authorities might want to put faces to passports, that they might awaken us. They did not but this a.m. many passengers complained about the 'racket' caused by the officials in the corridors. I didn't hear a thing! I was awoken later with the train swinging from right to left and my tummy didn't feel so well! However, thankfully I fell asleep again quickly. 

Last evening, we went to the observation deck for an aperitif before dinner. Dinner is formal - men must wear a tie for dinner. The passengers are most interesting -all very well travelled.  We met Tim, from UK - a very interesting man, who was an intelligence officer in the Royal  Marines, stationed in Malta, where he met his lovely wife Rita. He later qualified as a solicitor and on hearing that I was a barrister, he quipped that he hoped there was  an estate agent on board so that we wouldn't be at the bottom of the pecking order!! We also met two Scottish couples,  The train's capacity is 72. There are 55 on board - 50% from the UK at 21 Rand to £, it's nothing to them but for the South African couple, whom we met earlier at the  station, it was the equivalent of two months salary for a well paid South African - the Rand is at an all time low! Of course, we are  the only Irish couple and there are two Portuguese couples but they are bankers in Madagascar. It is the first time that  I have met Portiuguese abroad.  

At 1930hrs, the gong rang for dinner and we repaired to the dining room. There are two but one is vintage and definitely recalls the great days of the railways , the other is not quite as old.  Again 5 courses with an accompanying wine with each  course.  After diinner, we repaired to the lounge - there are three on the train - for a digestif. Again we chatted with our fellow passengers - I'm trying to meet them all before I alght at Vic Falls!! ( of coarse in your interests dear reader).

Botswana is a remarkable country. It is said it is the best area in Africa for Safari. It's area includes the Kalahari desert and the Okavango Delta. Today we have travelled through towns such as Serule, Francestown to the border with Zimbabwe at Plumtree. We have traversed the Fringe of the Kalahari  desert en route to the Falls. 

We breakfasted, went to the observation deck as the desert stretched out before us as far as the eye could see. 

After lunch, we were  told to be ready to visit Wayside Farm. 

A string of Rovis Rail jeeps collected us from the train and took us to the farm where we were given a briefing on a particular type of cattle developed to cope with the climate. The farm has been in the family for five generations and what was once  a maize  and cotton producing farm is now devoted to cattle ( especially bred for the arid conditions, due to climate change. 

We were then brought around the vast farm, where we saw an eagle's nest, a condor and numerous giraffes. 

There's a golf coarse on the farm - fancy s game girls in 32•C ? 

We repaired to the watering hole, where various Botswanan delicacies, teas coffees and alcoholic beverages of choice were served, as we gazed out on the beautiful sunset. Later on our return to the train, we saw the giraffes at the watering hole- they had obviously waited for the humans to depart. 

As we arrived at the train, the staff were lined up to serve the aperitif of our choice    It was now 1800hrs and dinner was at 1930 so we just had time to dress for dinner. Dinner is formal and gentlemen must wear ties. 

We shared our table with the SA couple, of German origin whom I mentioned earlier They are a delight and explain the trials, tribulations and benefits of living in SA. 

After dinner, we graced the Observation deck , where most people congregate after dinner for a chat and a digestif. Tonight, a Scottish couple, Harry and Evelyn, whom we had shared our lunch table with,  were in conversation with a SA couple. Evelyn said she had heard our ongoing train plans are in jeopardy. We admitted that they were. The manager had contacted Zambian railways, who informed him that the Jubilee train from Livingston to Lusaka had changed its schedule. It was now running on Friday and Sunday - we had a choice spend 6 hours in Victoria Falls and take the Jubilee train, wait til Friday or take the bus The latter is our only option. 

We are taking the Tanzara from  Lusaka,  to Dar Es Salaam  The SA couple had done it and gave a none too glowing report It sounds hellish and for two nights !! Evelyn told us that the train manager told her that he is worried about us!! They suggested I fly home from Vic or fly to Dar - I'm tempted! !!!