Athens

This morning I awoke at  0600hrs and the sun hadn't risen. When I peered out the window at 0800 hrs, there had obviously been a heavy shower - welcome to reduce the humidity!

As we left the hotel at 0900hrs, the sun had risen. If one wishes to climb to the Acropolis, one should rise early and visit as soon as it opens - check opening hours - they're liable to change!

We walked up the pedestrian street and viewed the Acropolis from below! There are cranes on site - are they rebuilding it???? 

 

 

In summer one can attend outdoor cinema and concert there, which should be pleasant in the cooler evenings. 

There is a massive amount of graffiti - most in Greek which I don't understand but below tells the tale of Greek disaffection ! 

 

The museum is located on the other side of the  street. Many of the exhibits  are the originals from the Acropolis and elsewhere. They have replaced them on site with imitations. When I first climbed to the Acropolis in 1978, I did wonder how long they would allow people to walk freely over the area? 

 

Time did not allow for a visit to the museum on this occasion but it will be on the next visit's schedule. 

We returned to the hotel, walked to the Acropolis metro, purchased our €10 ticket to the airport, one change on metro at Syntagma, and then metro direct to the airport. At time of writing, they depart at 6 minutes after the hour and half hour from Syntagma. It takes 45 minutes. Leave plenty of time, check your area and gate as if you make a mistake, it's a least a 15 minute walk back to the central area and as much again possibly to the next area. 

As we approached the airport, there was a huge sign - not official - 'Immigrants welcome, tourists go home'. The author(s) don't know what side their bread is buttered on!! 🙄

To Athens

The final leg of our Greek odyssey is about to begin as we take the 1100 hrs  bus to Athens. 

The bus was 20 minutes late but that's to be expected when they have to contend with people double parking - the clampers would have a field day here! 

The bus was almost full but passengers got on and off, including a group of ladies, who boarded at our stop and alighted the next town.  They were in great spirits! 

We continued through Parnassos Park in the opposite direction from whence we arrived in Delphi. 

 

Having passed the town of Levadia, we left the mountains behind. This is a skiing area in winter and the area must be very picturesque when covered in snow! We then entered an extremely wide valley with the mountains in the distance. We passed Thiva and took the motorway to Athens. 

 

We were c 20km from Athens when there occurred fork lightening and thunder together with tumultuous rain. The bus, which had seen better days (most of KTEL busses are excellent), began to leak water! Luckily the rain ceased as we arrived in Athens. The bus dropped us at the Metro, where we got a metro to within 60m of the Hotel! 

Hotel Phaedra is situated within a stone's throw of the Acropolis in the historic centre of Athens. (€80) and is a good 3 star. 

I'm sitting here on the room's balcony with a gentle breeze blowing - a welcome relief from the blazing sun we've just endured for the last 4 hours.  

As we have visited Athens before and 'done the sights' as they say, we set off to see Parliament Square, the centre of all demonstrations against austerity. 

 

CC and I parted company here, he to a book shop and I to continue the search for the remainder Grand Promenade which starts at Dionysius Areopagitou, near the Temple Zeus. I took this quiet leafy parkland walk to Thisio Park. 

 

I had already walked the other part along Ermou, a busy shopping street, which ends at Parliament Square. 

This is Athens historic quarter. For the 2008 Olympics, the area was pedestrianised .  This area was relieved of traffic so that citizen and tourist alike can enjoy the sites of Ancient Greece in comfort. Within this area are most of the major sites including the Acropolis and  impressively designed Acropolis museum. 

More tomorrow .... 

Delphi

Thunder and lightening was forecast!! 

We had intended that if the Archaeological site at Delphi was open until late (it sometimes closes at 1500hrs), we would go in the afternoon when the tour busses had departed. However, though the site was open until 20.00hrs we decided not to risk it on account of the forecast. 

Having breakfasted over looking Parnassos National Park and the town of Itaca, on the Gulf of Corinth, we set out to walk the 500m from our hotel to the ancient site built on the slopes of Mt. Parnassos and the Gulf of Corinth. 

 

We first visited the Museum to learn a little about the site. The wealth of artifacts discovered is astounding. 

 

                   The cauldron 

 

                   A painted plate

 

A charioteer - the only bronze pieces found on the site as it had been looted or locals had used the bronze to make utensils  - among its numerous treasures. 

 

 

 

 

  A replica of the site (as it would have been)

On first entering the site, one enters the Agora, (market place), where pilgrims bought gifts to offer to Apollo. Continuing on the sacred way, one encounters the Athenian Treasury, once filled with the spoils of war. Nearby is the omphalos - it is said that Zeus released two eagles and placed this stone where they met - it was considered the centre of the ancient world!    

On we climbed to the Temple of Apollo, 

 

 

we passed the octagonal shaped stone wall that bear inscriptions referring to the emancipation of slaves. 

We continued to the theatre, where music and poetry competitions were held. Games were held here, similar to Olympia, every 4 years. The theatre could accommodate 5,000 spectators!  

 

A view of the theatre from the road to the stadium 

  

A 0.7km path climbs to the stadium, reputedly the best preserved in Greece. 

 

 

 

The Delphic Oracle was an important political and religious sanctuary. Worshippers came here to consult the god Apollo, through the priestess Pythia. She became entranced having breathed in vapours from chasm beneath and chewing laurel leaves. It was claimed she was infallible, even if her answers were vague. All decisions in connection with war, marriage, election of leaders and prospective journeys were done at the instigation of her visions, often to the detriment of the worshipper! 

The Byzantine Emperor (also of Olympia fame) abolished the sanctuary in 4th century AD. 

We retraced or steps downhill. We had spent three hours there - one in the museum and two on site - and we could have spent more. 

The sky was darkening, drops of rain were falling and there was a clap of thunder as we quitted the site. Maybe the gods are angry? 

There are many opportunities to hike in the area to the Korykeon Cave Walk and the Delphi to AncientbKirea hike. 

We returned to Hotel Hermes (€38 per night)! The promised storm failed to materialise and the sun shone again!

Tomorrow, a 3 hour bus journey to Athens......

To Delphi

 

            What a magical journey! 

We departed Thessaloniki on the 1500 hrs bus to Delphi. At the station, contrary to what Alexander had been told, we did not need to change busses for Delphi! 

The route took us down the motorway, along the picturesque Gulf of Thessaloniki, 

 

we turned inland for Katherini, Larissa, joined the Gulf of Pagastikos at Volvos 

 

and arrived in Lamia. We left the motorway soon after and continued to Amfisa. We changed busses - yes we did - at A.      and continued to the pretty town of Itea on the northern coast of the Gulf of Corinth.

 

From there we began our climb to Delphi

 

It was magical, inspiring and humbling as we drove through Mount Parnasos national park. The landscape was breath-taking. The mountains were bathed in bright light as the evening closed in - I thought Apollo might appear in all his majesty - but alas no!! 

 

Just after 21.00 hrs, we arrived in Delphi. I hadn't noticed the journey as we had a10 minute rest stop every two hours. 

Dinner and rest and we await the discovery of Delphi tomorrow. 

Thessaloniki

Independent traveller in Greece beware! With incredibly no tourist offices even in major tourist centres such as Olympia and Delphi, travel between locations is difficult!!! 

We had intended taking the train from Thessaloniki to Levadia and taking a 55 minute bus ride from there to Delphi. However, when we checked this with reception, it appears that while a bus departs Delphi for Levadia, there is no bus from Levadia to Delphi! It is impossible to get information online and one would need to speak Greek to phone!!

Our helpful receptionist made enquiries and informed us that  our only option is to take a 5 hr 10 minute bus to Aiapkeia and from there a 55 minute bus to Delphi!! Again no joined up thinking with bus and train services or between regional bus services - the bus services are run by collectives on a regional basis!  We leave at 15.00 and finally arrive Adelphi at 21.10 hrs. - cost €37.50 + final leg € ? as yet!! One could not purchase a ticket for the final lap of the journey in Thessaloniki!!!

Tonight we had dinner  next door to our hotel.  It had come highly recommended. It did not disappoint. There we encountered a lady who was Dean of Public Policy at Penn State university . She was here to help with communication between the universities.  She concurred that the Greeks don't understand the concept. 

This morning, we visited the church of Agios Sophia . 

 

Unfortunately, just as we arrived the church was closing but I think yesterday's visit to Agios Demetrius gave us a flavour of Greek Orthodox churches.      

We then repaired to a nearby restaurant  for lunch as we were quitting Thessaloniki at 1500 hrs on a 6 hour bus trip to Delphi!! The restaurant is Thessaloniki's answer to Dublin's Fallon and Byrne. 

 

 

The food was delicious: a Taramsalata 

 

to start followed by baked two cheeses for me and sardines for CC 

 

- excellent choices though the waitress informed me that my choice was only a starter - it was certainly more than sufficient. Portions are very large here in Greece. 

Tha above should tied us over until we arrive in Delphi tonight ......

 

Thessaloniki Macedonia Northern Greece.

Last night, we walked down to the port. One of the warehouse was teeming with young people as the disco raved.  Outside were two police cars and the army !! 

Thessaloniki is a typical tourist town with blocks of apartments facing the sea. 

 

The town is the first place we experienced a holiday atmosphere with  lots of people walking, eating and drinking. Some establishments were full of young people having  a good time, others for the more sober visitors! 

Our hotel is right in the heart of Ladadika; a bustling area of hotels and restaurants. The hotel was an excellent choice, the staff we most helpful. (€58per night). My only complaint was that the air conditioning didn't cool the room to my requirements! Last night we ate at a nearby typical Greek restaurant - the grilled cheese was delicious. 

On our return to the hotel, we fell into conversation with the receptionist. He was a well qualified young man who had completed a Masters in Public Policy in Madrid University. Greece needs young men such as him.

He told us that he regretted returning to Greece. He was disillusioned with the political system. When I made the observation that the economy appeared to be improving, he dissented and said that the Greek people were still hurting though they give the contrary impression.

At 07.00 hours the town was asleep - not a sole appeared until 10.00 hrs. Thessaloniki is the second city of Greece, with a population of only 325,000. The sun rose but it appears, it will commence raining at 15.00 hrs so we had better do the suggested walk before then......

We set off along the port to see the White Tower. 

 

It has a sad history as a prison and torture chamber. In 1826, Sultan Mamud11 massacred rebellious janissaries (an elite troop of forcibly Islamised boys) there. In 1913, Greece reconquered its country and whitewashed the tower to obliterate its bloody past - the white wash has obviously faded over time! 

From there, we turned inland and first encountered the Palace of Galerius,

 

 

followed further along our route by the Arch of  Galerius built to celebrate his victory over the Persians.

 

We heard music playing and diverted down a side street to hear the band. Thessaloniki has its own symphony orchestra - rare for a town of its size to support one. 

 

Further on Galerius also built the Rotunda; a 30 metres edifice as his future mausoleum but he died of a mysterious disease and is buried in Serbia. It had life as a Christian church and later as a mosque with an added minaret. 

 

Galerius chose prime sites on elevated land overlooking the sea!

A brief stop for lunch and our next visit was where Ataturk, first President of the Republic of Turkey, was born.  On our Orient Express Trip, we saw the suite in which he lived in the Pera Hotel in Istanbul. 

 

On we continued - the temperature had risen from 22-26 degrees but there was no sign of the promised rain. 

We visited the Church of Agios Dimitrios, the patron saint of Thessaloniki. The church is set in its own square.

 

In 306AD, Dimitri was killed at this site by order of Galerius, persecutor of Christians  His remains are in a side altar. 

 

It too became a mosque after the Ottman conquest and returned to church status after the Greek reconquest.

 

In 1917, Thessaloniki suffered a major fire and the church was damaged - only 5 original mosaics survived. 

 

To find our route back to the hotel was to prove a challenge- roads led off in all directions - the only solution was to keep walking downwards to the sea (geographers you understand) and so we did arrive one block from the hotel-after 5 hours of sightseeing!! 

It's siesta time now.....

 

Corinth via Athens to Thessaloniki

The bus ride to Kito was picture postcard as we hugged the coast for much of the time. 

Contrary to my earlier claims, it appears that a standard gauge railway is under construction and on completion, it will be a very picturesque coastal journey, but will serve, only Athens to Partas - the remainder of the line,  which circled the upper part of the peninsula, will have to contend with the busses which serve every nook and cranny and as a result travelling is slow and laborious. 

 

 

All along the coast were small resorts dotting the shores of the Gulf. 

At Kito we boarded the train for Corinth and arrived at Corinth c.10 minutes later. Eventually, when construction is complete,  the train will run from Patra to Athens. 

We took a taxi to the Ephira hotel - Trip Advisor hadn't given it great reviews but for a 3 star, we found it excellent. We probably would not have booked it, based on Trip Advisor's reviews, were it not for its convenience to the train station and tomorrow's early departure for the Thessaloniki train. 

As we were in Corinth, we decided that we had to see that major feat of engineering, the Corinth canal. 

 

It is not in Corinth but in Corinth - Isthmia some 7 km from Corinth, where the KYEL bus station is. 

It was most impressive though narrower than I had expected. No large ship was going through but we did see a small yacht. Our taxi driver told us that it cost small boats €30 per metre to sail through!! 

 

A view out to sea with the new railway            bridge and motorway in view 

 

 

A view inland - the old disused railway                bridge in the foreground 

Prior to our visit, I thought we might get a trip on the canal but that is only possible if one takes an evening cruise, which required advance booking. 

Later the taxi took us to Loutraki, a playground for the Athenians. It was a typical seaside resort though very quiet for a Saturday night- even if it was off season. Again there were the closed up shops and hotels to be seen. 

 

The sun was setting over the Gulf of Corinth as the taxi plied its way back to Corinth, with a brief interruption for the lifting of the suspension bridge to allow a ship pass through the canal. 

 

 

This morning, we had to quit the hotel at 08.15 to catch two connecting trains to reach Athens, where we will board the train to Thessaloniki at 10.18 hrs. The transfers were seemless even though the first connection had only a two minute interval. 

The journey took us over the Corinth canal once again:

 

leaving the Gulf of Corinth for the Aegean Sea, which the train travelled by.

 

Oil rigs dotted the Aegean Sea. 

 

It was a beautiful morning - at 0830 hrs, it was already 22 degrees. The weather has been glorious since Tuesday, the day we visited Olympia. 

We arrived at Athens station. Its location is unusual in that it is in the centre of the city,  with apartments blocks acting as sentries on both sides of the track. 

 

The train left on time at 10.18 hrs and our ETA in Thessaloniki is 15.41 hours (€34 one-way with assigned seats). Our journey takes us from south to north of the mainland via Thiva, Larissa and Katerini from where it it takes a coastal  route for part of its journey to Thessaloniki, otherwise we take valley routes through the mountains. 

Having travelled for 2 1/2 hrs, the mountains were rising in stature as we travelled:

 

we tunnelled through mountains, crossed steep gorges. 

 

 

 

and proceeded on an elevated track above the manicured landscape below:

 

 

We passed many towns nestled on the southern slopes of the mountains: 

 

At 1300 hrs, we decided, for research purposes only, dear reader, to lunch on board. 

The menu: 

 

           

                   How is your Greek? 

Yes €7.00 for 3 courses. The chef translated the menu in a fashion!! Pot luck it was: 

Starter: 

 

Roasted peppers or a salad of perhaps celery , 

Followed by : 

 Moussaka and Chicken and potatoes (other choice spaghetti) 

Followed by: 

 

  A honey drizzle cake and a ground nut cake. 

The bottles of wine, which I'm sure didn't escape your notice were €1.00 each!!!!  Total bill €16.00 !!! ( Iranrod Eireann match that !!)

The train arrived at Larissa and changed from a diesel to an electric engine. We were already behind schedule.  Somewhere between Larissa and Katerini, the engine broke down. Thankfully it started up again after 15 minutes or so, at present, were are 1 1/4 hours late!   

The skies are darkening and we had a short rain shower!! By the time we reached Thessaloniki, it was raining constantly and the ground was interspersed with pools of water. It must have been raining for a time or else they really are paddy fields!! Do they grow rice in Thessaloniki? 

We adjourned to a railway cafe to book a hotel  we had seen in our guide book. We booked it, took a taxi to the historic house- once the Ukranian Embassy and now a hotel. We arrived by taxi before the booking came through!!  It is called Colours and indeed its name is very 

 

appropriate! 

Til tomorrow then ....... we're off to enjoy the nightlife Thessaloniki has to offer .....