Rome - The Vatican museums and St Peters Basilica

Last night we returned to the Trevi Fountain  as J wanted to see it by night. She was overwhelmed by the crowds on the first afternoon’s visit. The Fountain looked well (last visit some years ago, it was clad  in scaffolding) but now it is wearing its best livery. 

A photographer took our phone and as he photographed us, he had us pretend to throw coins into the Fountain as was the custom in the past. 

En route from the hotel at Palazzo Quirinale, we experienced a beautiful sunset 

and saw St Peter’s Basilica in the distance bathed in the sunset. 

Dinner and a hectic day ended....

This morning, we set off early to take a tour of the Vatican museums, including the Sistine Chapel and St Peter’s Basilica.  Again the entry instructions from  Tiqet were not quite precise but an improvement on yesterday! The only advantage of the ticket was quick access to the Museums - once inside we were met by a very pleasant and informative Vatican guide. 

Founded by Julius 11 in the 16 th century, it was enlarged by later Popes. It encompasses 7 km of wall space and has a world renowned collection of  sculpture, paintings, frescoes and manuscripts. One could only taste the riches of some of its seven major museums. 

The magnificence of its ceilings

The discovery of an early Roman sculpture by Michelangelo - note the anatomical correctness. 

The magnificent Rotunda

Very  precious blue stone similar in colour  blue of Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel

The Tapestry Gallery - an early Flemish tapestry 

A later 16th century tapestry - hung on either side of a corridor with open windows - most museums have yet to have air conditioning installed! 

The Gallery of the Maps by the Dominican photographer Egnazio Danti at the time of the Renaissance - 40 frescoes depicting very accurately various areas of Italy.  

A glimpse of the Vatican gardens through an open gallery window! 

Below - the Raphael rooms : 

 

In the above painting by Raphael, the central characters are Plato (in red) and Aristotle (in blue) on the near left  is a young, pensive Michelangelo and among the group on the near right is the young Raphael!! 

Finally we arrived at the Sistine Chapel, where popes are elected - a tradition going back to the 16th century. Michelangelo painted the ceiling from 1508-1512 and below it  hang Raphael’s frescoes. The Last Judgment was painted 1535-4. When  I first saw it in the 70s,  it was dark as a result of candlelight. From 1980-94, the ceiling frescoes and Last Judgement  were cleaned and restored. The side walls were restored in 1999 among much debate as to benefits of such restorations.  The atmosphere is bright and springlike now. Many of Michelangelo’s figures were nude, later covered and some of the covering though not all, were removed during restoration - silence within and no photographs permitted - in case of damage to the frescoes. 

The Pope receives numerous gifts  - I recall seeing the above in Musee Rodin in Paris in the 70s ? Among the gifts on display were works by Dali and Caravaggio. 

 

Having completes 3 hour tour of the the Vatican Museums, we taken down a corridor to access Saint Peter’s Basilica - only available to those on a guided tour 

 

A view of St Peter’s Square from the Basilica’s entrance.  

  

                    One of its many entrance doors 

             The interior devoid of benches

                                The Pieta 

                             The Rotunda 


                                 

                                The Main Altar

             Where only the Pope celebrates Mass

            The Swiss Guards guarding an entrance

               St Peter’ s Square from the exit

After 3 information packed hours, we left the Vatican, walked up along the Tiber, passed Castel S’ Angelo and back to our hotel - a 25 minute walk. 

We were exhausted and decided to eat locally as J had a taxi collect her at 08:00 for an 11:00 flight back to Oz 

We had a terrific few days - a rest in Ostia di Lido and action packed days in Rome. 

Since my flight wasn’t departing until 21:00, I decided to visit the Borgese Museum. 

On arrival, I was informed that there are no tickets available until 17:00 Thursday.!!!  Disappointed, I had a short stroll in the extensive Gardens

Where Italian families are enjoying a Saturday stroll 

I  returned to Via Nazionale, where I came across a most interesting restaurant, EST EST just off Via Nazionale, whose original proprietor was a Tuscan wine maker, who sold wine from the restaurant and on the arrival of electricity, commenced making Neopolitan pizzas for which it is still famous. The furniture in the front of house is original. I had a most delicious lunch. 

It’s almost time to depart for the airport. 

Until my next trip Ciao!! 

Housekeeping: 

1. At Ciampino  - taxi set fare €30 / Fiumicino €48

                           - Shuttle buses at Ciampuano €2.30/6 

                             I took SIT €6 - dropped off near 

                             Termini (Main Railway Station) 

                             Return stop  to C in different

                             location Check location and  

                             timetable online. 

2. Tours              -Worth booking to skip the queue/ 

                             quick security - Vatican Museums 

                             and Colleseum in particular! 

3.  Accommodation - Seven , 249 Via Nazionale - 

                                   v. Convenient - Sights walkable  

                                   from here - Check Web  - 

                                   highly recommend. (10 minute 

                                   walk from Termini) Free Now

                                   Now and Uber operate in Rome. 

4. Lido di Ostia - Hotel Scaletti  on beach front - v 

                             good 

        

  City tax must be paid in CASH - nominal

5. Cuisine - excellent pasta everywhere - go down side

                    streets for best options Avoid restaurants 

                    around tourist spots !!

Rome is very inexpensive in comparison to Dublin

Rome

What a disaster! Well maybe not a total disaster! 

We arrived for a guided tour of the Colleseum, The Roman Forum and Palatinate Hill. The meeting point the Metro B exit.  What we didn’t know (we should have read the directions more carefully, though it did not specify that there were two exits - one exit at one level and another exit downstairs, where the Tiqet kiosk was located). Had we taken the metro, we would have arrived at the correct place but our hotel being nearby, we had walked and ended up at the other exit. When someone finally told us that there was another exit, the tour had departed !  

There was an unguided tour departing and the guide suggested we take that as otherwise we would forfeit our tickets. We did - this merely entitles one to skip the queue for tickets and it was up to oneself to tour the Colleseum. (No map or information provided !!) Inside the Colleseum, we saw what was most likely our tour. I asked the guide if we were on her list. She ignored my question. Persisting, she said she was not taking a guided tour, which was untrue, otherwise she would have left the group at the entrance as our guide had done! She wore such a bored expression, I’d wager that we didn’t  miss much! 

After an hour and a half we were to quit the colosseum and await another guide at Constantine’s Arch  to help us skip the queue once again into Palatinate Hill and Roman Forum site. You would really want to have your wits about you taking these tours. Later, a call to head office to complain elicited no joy! Beware! 

There are three accessible levels - we were to have access to the lowest level but having ‘missed’ our tour we accessed only the two upper levels. However, the lower level, the arena, which I thought to be flat was in fact being excavated further down to another level! 

It is impressive from the interior. The construction commenced in 72AD  and completed in 80AD. The brick was once covered in marble. It was thought capable of holding 50,000 spectators seated in line with their class 

The popes, emperors and aristocracy pillaged marble from the Colleseum to build none other than St Peters and their  palaces.! 

The papacy somewhat redeemed itself when a cross was erected to erroneously commemorate the martyrdom of thousands of Christians supposedly  killed in the Amphitheatre, declared the area a sacred place and thus saved  it from further demolition!!! No Christians were ever killed there !!!

In the 1930s, it was again used as propaganda when: 

Meeting at Constantine’s Arch, we again skipped the queue - not having fancied standing out in 30 + degrees for any length of time 

We walked around the Hill . This is the supposed site of Romelus and Remus, founders of Rome suckled by the she - wolf. 

We walked the perimeter of Palatinate Hill where all the wealthy of the time lived in its fashionable environs such as Cicero (those of us who read Latin remember our jousts with his writings) and  Mark Anthony. From 36BC, it became home to the emperors who built most lavish palaces! 

This led to the Forum where the remnants of temples, basilicas and public squares. 

After an exhausting three hours in the midday sun, we returned to our hotel for a well earned rest!! 

Rome

This morning considering J had a large, heavy case, we decided to take a taxi to Rome.  If you travel light, the train and metro together cost €1.50 x 2 (a ticket allows a 100 minutes transport provided one doesn’t leave the station) The taxi cost €58.00 for a 50 minute drive door to door. 

As we left the hotel, we hadn’t realised that the road had been closed for an impending concert 

and the taxi man had to park and walk to our hotel. 

 

Italian roads are very busy but we made good progress and arrived at Seven, 249 Via Nazionale - a very convenient location. As we arrived at midday our room wasn’t ready but we deposited our luggage there.  

As J had never been to Rome, we set out to see the sights - the tourist sights in Rome are all very walkable though one might prefer to take a metro to the Vatican. 

Our initial call was at the Spanish Steps. We arrived at the top of the steps near the church of Trinity Del Monti. Having enjoyed a respite from the midday sun in the church, we took in the view and then walked down the steps 

into Via Condotti, 

here all international designers pedal their wares. We kept our credit cards securely on our person - no purchases!!!

We continued to the Trevi Fountain. En route we had a light lunch. On arrival, the place was thronged. J said we’d return this evening but I assured her it would be just as crowded!!  We took some photos and left. 

(My photographer forgot to include the fountain !!)

You cannot imitate a dip in the fountain as in Fellini’s La Dolce Vita unless you fancy a very substantial fine!! 

Next stop Monumento a Vittorio  Emanuele  11, who became King of a United Italy in 1861. Italy had not been united since the 6th century. 

We climbed the numerous steps to the summit and looked over Ancient Rome. 

We continued down Via Nazionale to our hotel Seven  close to Piazza della Republica, where we were shown to our room - an  ideal, well appointed, convenient and  inexpensive bolthole in Rome. I am resting before the evening’s offerings - J has gone shopping!!  

The Guardian newspaper had suggested a local restaurant Trattoria Vecchia Roma, a 10 minute walk from our hotel. There was a small queue as we had expected but we were quickly seated and partook of an excellent pasta and pizza. We got into conversation with an Australian couple from Melbourne, who were amazed when J said that she also lived there. They gave me some comfort in that their three children had all spent some time living in Europe but all now lived within 5 miles of their parents!! 

Tomorrow, we booked a tour of the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and Palatinate  Hill. Til then ......

Lido di Ostia

Today is another beach day!  This time we decided to stay local.  The hotel was very generous in again giving us beach towels. The receptionist recommended the local free beach but we decided to go to a private one, where we could hire an umbrella and sunloungers. Today without a cabin the cost was €20 but yesterday it was €10. Walking the beach later in the evening, I was glad that we made that choice - the public beach looked unkempt with graffiti everywhere. 

The temperature was in the late 20s but a sea breeze made it very pleasant indeed. The sea here was less choppy than the the sea yesterday. Young people  were frolicking around in the water 

and nuns in habits were bathing their feet. 

We spent 7 very relaxing hours there. 

Having showered and dressed, we adjourned to the same bar on the Piazza that we had frequented the previous evening. 

Later we repaired to La Gnoccheria , the most highly recommended restaurant in Ostia, closed Sunday and Monday as we discovered on our first evening! 

The restaurant was worthy of its rave reviews. The waitress was passionate and knowledgeable about her food and wines. We chose one starter and two main courses - the starter was both generous and utterly delicious - it could have sufficed

but two more plates followed - their famous Gnocchi with pistachio 

and a red pasta coloured by tomatoes with most unusual cheese. 

We couldn’t finish them!! She recommended a wine 

which was truly delicious if a little warm for us - the Italians appear to serve their wines rather warm - a steal at €18 a bottle! 

We returned to the hotel - another great day!! 

Lido di Ostia

Last night, we went in search of a recommended restaurant but found it to be shut until Tuesday. Nearby was another that looked promising so we ate there. There were few customers as we entered but after eight it filled up. The pasta was good but on tasting their recommended wine, we decided to pass!! 

Today, we set off for La Dune, a beach resort recommended by the receptionist - a 10 minute bus ride away. We were allotted  a cabin, 

where we could store our belongings, with seats and an umbrella by the sea. It contained a shower in addition to storage  sun loungers  and deck chairs outside. I got the impression that people may book one for their entire stay as open doors revealed well stocked cabins. 

 

It was a huge resort and not at all crowded now that the season was at an end. I wouldn’t like to experience the resort  in high summer! 

The water sport equipment was beached for the most part with the exception of one lonely soul attempting to surf on a very choppy Med. 

We spent the day there. There was a pleasant sea breeze I am reading Idaho by Emily Ruskivich - not a holiday read !! We walked back to the hotel and came upon the town square - a much nicer part of town than the area we traversed from the railway station to the hotel or  last evening seeking out restaurants. 

The square and its surroundings were lined with bars and restaurants. 

People were seated,  enjoying an aperitif. We decided to return to our hotel nearby, wash up and return to the square for an aperitif followed by dinner. 

It was a very pleasant evening. The temperature had returned  to a pleasant 22 from a height of 28 earlier in the day. Most of the visitors appeared to be Italian and though all signage is  in Italian only, most people speak good English. 

Having enjoyed a glass of wine and a Prosecco, we repaired to Zero Nodi, via Lucio Coilio, where we ate excellent pizzas, a calzone and the most delicious carpese together with an impressive bottle of Nero d’Avola. 

We retired. 

A Roman Holiday

An early morning flight to Rome (Campino), a bus to Termini (Rome), where I awaited only daughter’s arrival from Firenze (Florence). As usual, in fine Italian  style, her initial train was late and she missed her connection by a minute.  However, another ticket was issued immediately but her arrival in Termini was later than expected. 

The arrivals notice had the train arrive at 2Est at the far end of the station but the train duly arrived at platform 12!! We made contact. 

Off then by metro to Piramid to catch the train to Lido di Ostia, Rome’s seaside resort, 30 minutes away. The transfer was seemless and luckily we joined the train as the guard blew the whistle - otherwise it was a 30 minute wait for the next train. 

The Lido has seen better days. Derelict shops and closed restaurants abound. There is an impressive beach but unfortunately as in many European Continental resorts, the beaches are private and one must pay to rent a sun lounger and an umbrella. 

We had a light lunch of a slice of pizza followed by a walk along the pier. We then returned to the hotel to rest as we both had had early morning starts. The hotel Scaletti is an excellent 3 star beach front hotel. The receptionist was very friendly and accommodating  - a perfect restful retreat before we hit Rome on Wednesday!!! 

We plan an early dinner tonight as we have booked to go to the hotel’s resort tomorrow - a 10-15 minute bus ride away. Dinner choices are limited. More tomorrow.......