Friday 13 September 2019

Rome - The Vatican museums and St Peters Basilica

Last night we returned to the Trevi Fountain  as J wanted to see it by night. She was overwhelmed by the crowds on the first afternoon’s visit. The Fountain looked well (last visit some years ago, it was clad  in scaffolding) but now it is wearing its best livery. 



A photographer took our phone and as he photographed us, he had us pretend to throw coins into the Fountain as was the custom in the past. 

En route from the hotel at Palazzo Quirinale, we experienced a beautiful sunset 





and saw St Peter’s Basilica in the distance bathed in the sunset. 

Dinner and a hectic day ended....

This morning, we set off early to take a tour of the Vatican museums, including the Sistine Chapel and St Peter’s Basilica.  Again the entry instructions from  Tiqet were not quite precise but an improvement on yesterday! The only advantage of the ticket was quick access to the Museums - once inside we were met by a very pleasant and informative Vatican guide. 

Founded by Julius 11 in the 16 th century, it was enlarged by later Popes. It encompasses 7 km of wall space and has a world renowned collection of  sculpture, paintings, frescoes and manuscripts. One could only taste the riches of some of its seven major museums. 



The magnificence of its ceilings



The discovery of an early Roman sculpture by Michelangelo - note the anatomical correctness. 



The magnificent Rotunda





Very  precious blue stone similar in colour  blue of Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel



The Tapestry Gallery - an early Flemish tapestry 



A later 16th century tapestry - hung on either side of a corridor with open windows - most museums have yet to have air conditioning installed! 



The Gallery of the Maps by the Dominican photographer Egnazio Danti at the time of the Renaissance - 40 frescoes depicting very accurately various areas of Italy.  



A glimpse of the Vatican gardens through an open gallery window! 

Below - the Raphael rooms : 


 
In the above painting by Raphael, the central characters are Plato (in red) and Aristotle (in blue) on the near left  is a young, pensive Michelangelo and among the group on the near right is the young Raphael!! 

Finally we arrived at the Sistine Chapel, where popes are elected - a tradition going back to the 16th century. Michelangelo painted the ceiling from 1508-1512 and below it  hang Raphael’s frescoes. The Last Judgment was painted 1535-4. When  I first saw it in the 70s,  it was dark as a result of candlelight. From 1980-94, the ceiling frescoes and Last Judgement  were cleaned and restored. The side walls were restored in 1999 among much debate as to benefits of such restorations.  The atmosphere is bright and springlike now. Many of Michelangelo’s figures were nude, later covered and some of the covering though not all, were removed during restoration - silence within and no photographs permitted - in case of damage to the frescoes. 






The Pope receives numerous gifts  - I recall seeing the above in Musee Rodin in Paris in the 70s ? Among the gifts on display were works by Dali and Caravaggio. 
 
Having completes 3 hour tour of the the Vatican Museums, we taken down a corridor to access Saint Peter’s Basilica - only available to those on a guided tour 


 
A view of St Peter’s Square from the Basilica’s entrance.  


  
                    One of its many entrance doors 



             The interior devoid of benches



                                The Pieta 



                             The Rotunda 


                                 
                                The Main Altar

             Where only the Pope celebrates Mass



            The Swiss Guards guarding an entrance



               St Peter’ s Square from the exit

After 3 information packed hours, we left the Vatican, walked up along the Tiber, passed Castel S’ Angelo and back to our hotel - a 25 minute walk. 

We were exhausted and decided to eat locally as J had a taxi collect her at 08:00 for an 11:00 flight back to Oz 

We had a terrific few days - a rest in Ostia di Lido and action packed days in Rome. 

Since my flight wasn’t departing until 21:00, I decided to visit the Borgese Museum. 





On arrival, I was informed that there are no tickets available until 17:00 Thursday.!!!  Disappointed, I had a short stroll in the extensive Gardens



Where Italian families are enjoying a Saturday stroll 

I  returned to Via Nazionale, where I came across a most interesting restaurant, EST EST just off Via Nazionale, whose original proprietor was a Tuscan wine maker, who sold wine from the restaurant and on the arrival of electricity, commenced making Neopolitan pizzas for which it is still famous. The furniture in the front of house is original. I had a most delicious lunch. 

It’s almost time to depart for the airport. 

Until my next trip Ciao!! 

Housekeeping: 
1. At Ciampino  - taxi set fare €30 / Fiumicino €48
                           - Shuttle buses at Ciampuano €2.30/6 
                             I took SIT €6 - dropped off near 
                             Termini (Main Railway Station) 
                             Return stop  to C in different
                             location Check location and  
                             timetable online. 

2. Tours              -Worth booking to skip the queue/ 
                             quick security - Vatican Museums 
                             and Colleseum in particular! 

3.  Accommodation - Seven , 249 Via Nazionale - 
                                   v. Convenient - Sights walkable  
                                   from here - Check Web  - 
                                   highly recommend. (10 minute 
                                   walk from Termini) Free Now
                                   Now and Uber operate in Rome. 

4. Lido di Ostia - Hotel Scaletti  on beach front - v 
                             good 
        
  City tax must be paid in CASH - nominal

5. Cuisine - excellent pasta everywhere - go down side
                    streets for best options Avoid restaurants 
                    around tourist spots !!

Rome is very inexpensive in comparison to Dublin




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