Lido di Ostia

Last night, we went in search of a recommended restaurant but found it to be shut until Tuesday. Nearby was another that looked promising so we ate there. There were few customers as we entered but after eight it filled up. The pasta was good but on tasting their recommended wine, we decided to pass!! 

Today, we set off for La Dune, a beach resort recommended by the receptionist - a 10 minute bus ride away. We were allotted  a cabin, 

where we could store our belongings, with seats and an umbrella by the sea. It contained a shower in addition to storage  sun loungers  and deck chairs outside. I got the impression that people may book one for their entire stay as open doors revealed well stocked cabins. 

 

It was a huge resort and not at all crowded now that the season was at an end. I wouldn’t like to experience the resort  in high summer! 

The water sport equipment was beached for the most part with the exception of one lonely soul attempting to surf on a very choppy Med. 

We spent the day there. There was a pleasant sea breeze I am reading Idaho by Emily Ruskivich - not a holiday read !! We walked back to the hotel and came upon the town square - a much nicer part of town than the area we traversed from the railway station to the hotel or  last evening seeking out restaurants. 

The square and its surroundings were lined with bars and restaurants. 

People were seated,  enjoying an aperitif. We decided to return to our hotel nearby, wash up and return to the square for an aperitif followed by dinner. 

It was a very pleasant evening. The temperature had returned  to a pleasant 22 from a height of 28 earlier in the day. Most of the visitors appeared to be Italian and though all signage is  in Italian only, most people speak good English. 

Having enjoyed a glass of wine and a Prosecco, we repaired to Zero Nodi, via Lucio Coilio, where we ate excellent pizzas, a calzone and the most delicious carpese together with an impressive bottle of Nero d’Avola. 

We retired. 

Doha, Qatar.

Sand, sand and more sand, replied a friend who had spent some time in Doha.  Add to that skyscrapers and traffic and you have the picture!! 

I awoke to the sun peeping  through an aperture in the curtain. It was 0530 and the sun was high in the sky. I slept again and awoke too exhausted to go to breakfast. 

I felt refreshed by 1100hrs and I arose. We had missed the early sight seeing tour and were too early for the later one so the concierge suggested we take a taxi. Taxi fares are inexpensive. There are very well regulated The metre vocally tells the passenger what the fare is and the tip is included. I haven’t seen this before. Taxis are necessary as the temperature today was 38’!! In summer the temperature reached 45-50c !!! Unimaginable!!  

We taxied to the  Museum of Islamic Art.  

It was a beautiful space. It is located on what I presume is a reclaimed area, adjacent to the Corniche, a very pleasant 7 km, palm fringed promenade surrounding Doha Bay teeming with dhows, traditional boats. It is to their credit that these have been retained. In Singapore the city was sanitized and the dhows which I saw on my first visit in the 1970s had disappeared on a later visit in the 1990s. 

There are two floors of exhibits and a library floor. It was designed by the renowned architect I. M. Pei. It is an airy space -a good juxta position to the heat outside. It is the largest exhibition of Islamic art in the world. 

The exhibitions include not only Qatar’s art but Iranian and Syrian too. Here  are a few examples of the richness of these cultures: 

                                The Koran

                     A Horseman passed by!!

                          Exquisite jewelry 

Fancy a spot of opium - on the left is an opium cup!

              14th century Mosque lamps

All the exhibition rooms display the exhibits to best advantage. 

                 10th century ceramic bowl

                  9th century ceramic bowl

From both floor but particularly the 2nd , there was a great view of the Cornice and the CBD 

On quitting the Museum

 I discovered that I had lost a pair of reading glasses. I was to regret enquiring as a full scale search of all information booths ensued, resulting in my being taken all over the Museum.  The glasses,  having  been located and my ownership established, I had to produce ID.  All I had was my driver’s licence, which was duly taken together with a form  detailing my personal data. After what seemed an interminable time, the gentleman returned bearing  my Driver’s License! 

 Meantime CC baked in the sun as the sleuthing continued -  all for the sake of €3 glasses but there was no halting the process once it began!   The Qataris are a  very obliging and friendly people and at pains to enquire if you are enjoying your stay. 

Glasses secured, we took the short walk across the road to the Souk., which re-opened in 2006. It was 1600hrs and the Souk had just opened at 15.30 hrs. 

              Awaiting the opening of business 

As a result it was quiet - usually the Souk is teeming with life! 

The Souk is divided into areas - the Bird Souk, the Textile, the Gold etc. 

The Tea Souk , where the men repair for tea before the evening’s business begins. 

The Gold Souk  is in a class of its own.

The shops are beautifully appointed. It is enclosed and air conditioned! 

One of many! In Dubai in the 1980s, I purchased a 22carat golf bracelet and chain. On having it valued in Ireland, I had done incredibly well. Later this and other jewellery was stolen from home. The jeweller who visited us to assess the loss told of how he was duped in Dubai - on returning home he asked a colleague to size the ring and to his horror the ring had only a film of gold. This time I made no purchases!! 

We taxied back to the hotel.   En route we saw the very imposing parliament building 

and a few Qataris out on a camel ride!  

Two other areas are said to be attractions - the residential area namely The Pearl  Qatar, 400 hectares with two circular offshore islands that mirror Doha Bay’s natural shape. 

It reputed to have a Mediterranean feel  with its marinas and striking architecture - a refuge for the wealthy. The other attraction within the city area is Katara, a cultural centre. I cannot say whether it’s a legitimate site or a cross between Disneyland and Bunratty Folk Park. When we return, we’ll factor them in with a foray into the surrounding desert.....

A well earned rest followed by dinner and we taxied to the airport 30/40 minutes (fare 65) to board our 02.05 for Perth.   .....

Bari

This morning we awoke to the sound of traffic. The sun was high in the sky! 

The hotel Excelsior Congressi was a pleasant surprise! Though we had only booked on Sunday night, we were surprised to discover that many hotels were booked out, so we settled for the above in spite of the fact that Trip Advisor's reviews were poor.  We later learned that a G8 summit is taking place in the city - hence the shortage of hotel accommodation. The hotel has recently been renovated and our only complaint was the lack of air conditioning!

On arrival the room's temperature measured 28 degrees and I couldn't lower it!  On calling reception, I was informed that it was centrally controlled. I asked for the temperature to be lowered and reception said it would comply but on our return, a window had been opened (we're on the 5th floor) . We opened the other and as the temperature outside reduced we had a pleasant sleep until traffic resumed around 6am! 

Breakfast was excellent - a selection of cereal, yoghurts,  hard boiled eggs and omelettes in addition to a choice of croissants, cakes, biscuits  and tarts. The coffee was excellent and the staff most obliging. 

We set off to explore Bari. We walked along the very picturesque promenade outside the city walls

 

The Italians have a wonderful sense of style - the area suffers from sea erosion yet the defences exhibit this sense of style : 

 

En route we discovered the Teatre Petruzzelli - one of Bari's main attractions. Here operas and classical concerts are performed. 

 

We walked to the busy industrial port, en route we passed the Fish Market but we were  too late to experience it as its busiest. 

 

We then swung inland to discover the old town where stands St Nicholas Cathredal - 

 

another of the city's star attractions. It did not disappoint - the altar appeared Romanesque and the ceiling was a treasure to behold. 

 

 

Downstairs was the crypt of St Nicholas with his remains entombed in the altar dedicated to him.

 

I never knew that Santa Claus hailed from Bari - I always thought he came from the North Pole but there you go !!!

We continued to the port. It was not as large as I had thought. 

 

On we went through the alley ways. 

 

 

The old city is a living city - people reside in the ancient buildings and one considers one's mortality as the vaporettas whiz by, without any regard for pedestrians. To escape, we took refreshments outside an old bar, where local men sipped their beer. 

 

We eventually found one of the oldest restaurants in Bari - established in 1870, the year Italy was unified.  

 

The proprietor asked us for our choice of pasta and main course: a local dish (rice, potatoe and baked mussels in their shells), octopus or from a variety of pastas then for our choice of main - fried fish, prawns or beef. 

We were then served with a starter of the most delicious prosciutto and mozzarella together with a dish of sun dried tomatoes and what appeared to be a variety of cucumber, accompanied by delicious bread. 

 

That would have been more than sufficient but this was followed by the pasta and the local dish described above. The pasta was homemade - one saw the women making the pasta as one traversed the alleyways of the old town - mixed with a variety of fish and sweetly tasting tomatoes. The local dish was delicious - I have never seen it on an Irish / Italian restaurant.  (My apologies dear reader but I forgot to photograph the pasta course!!!)

Then came the main course of fried octopus and calamari for CC and prawns for me - 3 large prawns lightly grilled. 

 

All this food was consumed with a bottle of water ( water is as expensive as wine), a jug of white wine for CC and red for me - no wine glasses - water glasses had to suffice!!! 

As if that wasn't sufficient, the meal concluded with a plate of deliciously sweet strawberries and a custard filled pastry! 

 

Total cost €23 pp. - a steal for quality!!  I couldn't move - we had intended to have a light lunch but alas!! Our waiter, who spoke excellent English, asked me where we were from. He was very excited to hear we were from Dublin. When I told him we had flown to Bari directly with Ryan Air, he couldn't believe it. I don't know how long Ryan Air have been flying in here but it is obviously not well known among locals. He is now going to visit his friends in Dublin!!

However, a little later, I managed a small cone of chocolate ice cream - it wasn't small but I couldn't leave Italy without having had their delicious ice cream! 

En route to the hotel, we took a coffee at the station - two Americanos €2!! We returned to the hotel to await a taxi to the port. 

We had to check in at 1730 for the 1930 sailing. We were taking the Superfast Greek ferry to Patra. We were able to board immediately. 

 

We're now here in our cabin relaxing before we set sail.  

We boarded early and as I relax here in the cabin, a large group of very vocal Italians, school kids I'd wager, appear to have taken over the deck. The Italians are so dramatic but I love to hear them speak their language with such expression and gesticulation. It is such a beautiful sounding language. 

We went up on deck to watch the trucks load. It was a sight to behold how the drivers reversed on and parked so close together!! 

 

The sunset was spectacular and as we departed Bari a half an hour late, before departure, it had disappeared into the horizon - the light was fading quickly - there's no dusk here. 

 

We leave Italy behind and arrive in Patras , Greece on the Peloponnese tomorrow morning. 

More tomorrow......