Malta November 14 2014

Malta - an undiscovered gem !

Left for Malta on 13th November on 1830 flight. Arrived at 2310. Malta is an hour ahead of Ireland. The taxi from the airport to the hotel, 7 km away, took less than 10 minutes - the taxi man drove like the hammers of hell!! 

The Phoenicia is a stylish 1920s hotel sensitively restored. We had a cool drink in their stylish residents' bar and then retired.

This morning, I enjoyed, from our bedroom window,  the  spectacular view of the harbour, and the fortresses which surrounds it. This little country has had more than its fair share of invaders. The earliest settler  arrived 5000BC , followed by numerous incaders including the Greeks, Romans, Turks of Ottoman Empire fame , the French and finally the English in 1800. The English ruled until 1964 when Malta finally received its independence from Britain. It declared a republic in 1974,and joined the EU in 2004.

As we had awoken late, we decided to head down the Main Street; Republic Street in search of breakfast. The hotel is ideally situated just outside the main gate of the capital Valletta, adjacent to the bus station. With the Maltese reputation for camecasee (sp?) driving and our taxi experience of last night , I think we will be using the busses and ferries to explore the island, which is small in area.

The richness of the architecture is phenomenal The main gate has been redesigned many times and one crosses the deep dry moate, which surrounds the city to reach the gate. Immediately inside to your right is the Parliament building under construction from original stone which blends sympathetically with its surroundings.  Beside it is the Royal Opera house, which was heavily bombed in 1942, in fact Malta endured more bombing raids than London during WW11. The site  was completed as an open air theatre  but there is opposition to this government decision by those who wish to return the opera house to its former glory. 

Arriving in Great Seige Square, we sought out a cafe and as we breakfasted outside, we watched the world go by. The temperature was 22• with a slight breeze. - very pleasant  for a late November morning. 

Across the square were the Law Courts . For research purposes, colleagues, I asked if we might enter and I received an affirmative answer. However, as we went through security, the security man asked me if I knew that I was entering the Law Courts.? Obviously, they don't get many tourist! 

The building had a fine marble staircase but the courts appeared more modern The building would not rival the Four  Courts in style or elegance. I looked through the small window in the door of a number of court until I saw one where a sitting was in progress. We entered and what appeared to be our equivalent of a registrar indicated to me to remove my sunglasses which I had forgotten were perched on my head. 

A young, black man was before the court as I understood it, he was brfore the court for not turning up at work, though I may have been mistaken !! The magistrate, I later learned it was a magistrates' court, (the Irish District Court equivalents) told the young man that as he couldn't be found he had had to be arrested and that if he  did not return to the court again he would be fined   €1,000 . The judge continued with his list and called case 7, chanting  'case 7 all good children go to heaven'. There was no response from the body of the court at which time one of the police officers  asks me 'Maltese or English?' ( I must look like a native!) when I replied 'English '  she asked if I was here for a case? I replied in the negative. I don't know whether she thought I was counsel or criminal?? I decided to take my leave. 

We wandered up stairs where we came across the civil and criminal courts and in addition the Court of Appeal but all were vacant !! Try as we might we couldn't find another court in session. 

We crossed the Square to one of the star attractions - St Johns Co Cathedral. The exterior of the building is in simple classical style but the interior is Baroque on steroids! It appears that when the baroque style came into vogue the knights wanted to emulate and , if possible, outshine the churches of Rome. They engaged the architect Cassar to build church (15553-1557) The church is an outstanding example of the period - the grand altar with its silver, the marble floors which cover the knights tombs, the vault decorated with frescoes by Mattia Preti and 'the beheading of St John the Baptist by Caravaggio; his signature in red, emanating from the  blood of the St - the only work reputed to bear Caravaggio's signature. We spent about 2 hours there and one could spend much longer; drinking on the richness of the side altars, the largest collection of Flemish tapestries and the church historical vestments. 

We exited the cathedral and decide to take in the 'Valletta Living  History ' audiovisual show which was a very superficial account of the city's history. Trip Advisor had recommended it - I am becoming more sceptical of what TA recommends - of late it appears everything and anything ! 

We continued to Republic Square 

where we adjourned to one of the oldest cafés in Valletta. It would remind one of a scaled down version of the Florian cafe in Venice. Here all cakes and pastries are made on the premises including Maltese specialities - I had a Kamnoli - deep fried pastry stuffed with ricotta cheese; some varieties include chocolate and candied   peel but not this one. Sorry no photo - forgot to take one - not on top gear blogging yet!! 

Quitting the cafe, we continued down Republic Street to Fort St Elmo; a spectacular fort being renovated at present. Since joining the EU, the latter has pumped vast sums of money into the restoration of the city - money well spent as it is a spectacular city. This fort last saw action in WW11. 

We returned to the hotel via Bakery Street ( Maltese are famous for their breads) in order to check out a restaurant that appeared interesting for dinner tonight. As we walked up the street, one could see all the houses with their balconies, which in the past, enabled the women and children to watch life go by on the street below. 

 Balconies were a status symbol, first built by the knights and imitated by the general public. Initially they were constructed of stone but when timber became less expensive; wooden balconies replaced stone. During the British area King George green became popular. Finally, maintenance of the timber became so costly that wood was replaced by wrought iron. 

When we eventually found the restaurant it appeared to be shut down but the antique dealer across the road assured us that it would open at 7 pm

We returned to the hotel for a late siesta and a subsequent phone call confirmed that the restaurant is indeed open and we have a booking for tonight ......

Addendum - Izmir and Ephesus

Cold TURKEY ???

I had not intended to do another blog but the last two days were interesting..

We continued to Izmir as there is a direct flight to Dublin. 

We left Istanbul and took a ferry across the Sea of Marmar to Bandirma, where we  overnighted. Next morning we departed on the 0700 train to Izmir. As we had bussed it to Istanbul because of track works, this was our first experience of Turkish trains , which were excellent; very modern with digital displays of stations in many.

Arriving in Ismeer, a taxi took us to our hotel,  which we had only booked online the day before. It was an excellent hotel, the Metz boutique and very convenient to      the station for Ephesus and the airport, though we  had  arrived at another station just a short taxi ride from the hotel.

According to the archaeological finds, Izmir was first mentioned 3000BC . Heredos described it 'as a city under the most sublime blue sky and on the remarkable  climate' . 

Homer was born here. The Iliad and the Odyssey epics were written by Homer about the city and its surroundings.

We arrived around 1400 and set off for the promenade - about 15 minutes walk from the hotel

It was a fantastic vista as we lunched, looking out on the Aegean Sea.  The only problem was that we had to try a few restaurants before we found one serving alcohol. This city appears to be similar to the Baptist belt we visited in the deep American South when we drove Route 66, 3 years ago. 

After lunch, we walked along the promenade. 

It was certainly not ' fuair' - the temperature was in the 30s - hotter than any place to date. 

We visited the square, where the local mosque was calling the faithful to prayer.

Later that evening, we repaired to the waterfront to have dinner. We chose a restaurant that had won numerous awards for authentic local food. It had hosted such guests a Warren Beatty, Chelsea Clinton and numerous Hollywood stars. 

The following morning, having had one of the top two breakfasts of our trip ( the other was in Cuneo, however,  we hadn't time to enjoy it as we had to make an early train), we set off for Ephesus,

Suffice it to say that relying  on train anoracks is not always a bright idea.  

The train was departing Selcuk, our intended stop, when a passenger, seeing our distress, had  the train stopped and we jumped off.!  The train had left the platform..... I doubt Irish Rail would do same ?

Interestingly, The Virgin Mary is reputed to have spent her final days in the company of John the apostle at Selcuk. John is reputed to have written some  of his Gospel here. 

We then took the 5 minute ride to Ephesus. On arrival, we were met by an awesome sight! It was utterly stunning!  The following is just a small flavour of what awaits you on your trip to Ephesus. 

It has Greek, Roman and Christian associations. A church was erected  in the Virgin Mary at Ephesus.

We continued  to the Theatre which must have seated 10s of 1000s

And thence to:

Izmir is a growing port for cruisers so it is difficult to avoid them at Ephesus. In addition, it is close to the airport, so a lengthy stopover  enables a trip to Epheus. 

A Mosaic: 

A street:

Umbrellas are useful - kept off the rain in the Arena at Verona and the sun at Ephesus. It was 32degrees in the shade at Selcuk station - it must have been 40 + at Ephesus.

Departed Izmir on 41/2 hr direct flight to Dublin. 

End. 

Final days - Istanbul

Final  blog delayed  - too busy clubbing in Nevizade.,.,, more later...,..

This morning, we took a late breakfast at a cafe near the hotel. I have become quite a fan of the Turkish breakfast.

We then took had a tour of the hotel, including Ataturk's hotel room, now a museum . He was first President of the Republic of Turkey, after Turkey gained independence from the Ottoman Empire. He stayed here many times in his favourite room ; room 101. We were neighbours in room 116! The room contains many memorabilia. 

We continued our tour of the hotel admiring a book dedicated to Agatha Christie

and a sedan that the porters used, to ferry people from the Orient Express, to the hotel. 

It claims to have been the first hotel  to have installed electricity after the electrification of the Ottoman  palaces, the first  to have an electric elevator and running hot water!

They are very proud of their distinguished guests; in addition to those already mentioned, they have also received Edward V111, Hitchcock and Greta Garbo. 

There is an undercurrent of discontent in  Istanbul and police with their riot  shields and water cannons are ever present. This morning there was a peaceful 'sit down' demonstration for the numerous people  who have disappeared without trace while in police custody 

John went to Sirekeci railway station to visit the railway museum and I continued to Sultanahmet  Square to revisit the Blue Mosque. En route, I was reminded that enterprise will be part of Turkish culture as long  as one young man is alive....

It was 1450hrs and the mosque was closing to visitors for prayers  at 1600hrs  While queueing, I fell into conversation with a Californian man, Brian, who was on a cruise from Greece, around the Balkans, to Rome. He wondered if the infinite queue would deny us access before 1600. We hoped not and the time slipped by as he related the advantages and disadvantages  of a cruise . He is a veteran cruiser and traveller. Subsequent to the  completion of the cruise , he is to holiday for a week in Italy followed by two weeks in Paris - his favourite city. I advised him that Rome was mine! 

The queue moved quickly and we entered the mosque at 1520.  It was as beautiful as I remember it.  One could stand forever and gaze with wonder at the stunning craftsmanship of its creators. 

I sat in the Square drinking in the wonder of it all. I did not revisit Topkapi Palace, Hagia or the Bazaar. 

 

I then commenced my journey back to the hotel scrutinising the subway map, as I had decided to try a different route home. I had to retrace my steps once but overall the journey was a success including riding the oldest funicular in Istanbul. The last leg of the journey was to take a tram. I knew that I was near the hotel but I was afraid to walk as it was quite likely that I would lose my way! 

When after 20 minutes, there was no sign of a tram, I asked the girl seated beside me if a tram was due and as to whether or not my ticket was valid. She thought my ticket was not and insisted on paying for me with her card, refusing to take the fare from me. We chatted for a while and she told me she had anIrish  friend who tells her that the Turks are similar to the Irish! Who was I to contradict an Irishman living in Istanbul for 10 years ? 

As we continued to wait, she told me that I was near the hotel but that she was afraid to give me directions in case I got lost. I said I'd try as it was getting late, so she gave me directions urging me to check with others  as I went. Her directions were perfect and I reached the hotel in minutes.

We had arranged to meet emigrant son and friend at our hotel at 1900. On arrival, we gave them a quick tour, an aperitif in the lounge and set out for Nevizade; the Temple Bar of Istanbul. 

Earlier in the day, I had asked the concierge at our hotel if she would book a table for us at a restaurant named after the area? A very concerned young lady said that the hotel didn't advise their patrons to frequent the area!! I said we would be accompanied by two young men and she appeared visibly relieved. 

We had a second aperitif in a local bazaar and proceeded to the area - minutes from OUR hotel. The boys were complaining that the area around their hotel, on the European side, was very quiet - trust the oldies to locate near the action!! Next time they come to Istanbul, they are definitely staying on the Asian side (most of the top sights are on the European side!!) 

We proceeded to Nevizade - what a lively place - every young Istanbulondon (?) and tourist must have been out and the decibel level was breaking the sound barrier!!  The ceaseless patrol of the police helicopters above adding to the din.

We arrived at the restaurant and the Maitre D' was charm itself. It was not as I expected of the top restaurant in the area  - very large and noisy but the boys were delighted with the buzz. The  food was good with an excellent selection. We left the boys at 2300 to enjoy the delights of the area and we retreated to the peace of our hotel for a digestif. 

Reflections: 

The trip was a great success and not as arduous as I had expected. We made every connection - every train and connecting bus was on time,

To cross from Western Europe to Eastern Europe was not frought with difficulty as I had expected - Slovenia was highly developed, Croatia less so. Serbia appeared to be least developed but is only to be expected after the war, Bulgaria very poor unlike its Turkish neighbour. As we progressed down through the Balkan states the standard of living appeared to decline until we reached Istanbul, where the standard is high. 

While we encountered some amazing sights, it was the people we met along the way , who made the journey most interesting - they told us their stories and were fascinated with our plan to recreate an Orient Express experience, almost 100 years later, this sevice commenced 1919). 

While every place we travelled through had its charms and excepting the Western European cities, of which many, dear readers, you are familiar with, the places that most charmed me were Verona (if you haven't been, you must experience an opera or a concert in the Arena), Trieste (underrated in guide books), Sofia (a charming city and well worth a week-end - must check with elder son if Ryanair fly there?) and  of course Istanbul - it never fails to please.

There are some errors in this blog, of which I  am  acutely aware  - my only excuse is that under pressure to blog each evening, it was a matter of publish or be damned !!  But there is  one unforgivable error which I realised just as I published - did you spot it, dear reader?