Heidelberg

Today, we took the nearby 33 bus which brought us directly to Heidelberg castle made famous in the film The Student Prince. Interestingly, the population of Heidelberg is 280,000 of which 28% are students. There is no single university campus but the faculties operate in impressive old,  architecturally beautiful buildings dotting the city. 

We arrived at noon,  a good time I suggest as it’s after the early birds visit and before the tours descend. There are three levels- the first is the Schloss (Castle), next Molkenkur and finally a ride in the old funicular to take a panoramic view of the city and surrounding countryside at Konigstuhl. Initially, at the box office, we were told that we couldn’t go to the highest level as there was in excess of 60 minute waiting time. We decided to take the modern funicular to level two and then descend to level one to see the Castle. 

Arriving at level 2, many walks were available and some passengers set off fully equipped for a day in the mountains. 

We walked a little way and returned only to find that the queue to the highest level had dissipated and on speaking to an agent, he upgraded our tickets to enable us to travel up. 

Here was a most dramatic view over the landscape. 

Here too was an inviting restaurant, where clients were dining on the balcony overlooking the stupendous view. A cafe was also available for more informal dining 

Having absorbed the wondrous view, we returned to the Castle (Schloss). 

It was spectacular. It is composed of many architectural styles, the castle having been added to over the centuries - most of it in a date of near collapse but a small part restored which houses a courtyard, a pharmacy and a wine barrel which is said to hold 100s liters of wine. 

Here we lunched - traditionally !! 

All food served at each level is traditional. One matter to note is that contrary to Ireland, everywhere required cash and if  one presented a card - one was told that the machine was broken!!! 

The gardens were expansive and spectacular.

They were completed in one night by Kurtfurst Friedrich V  as present for his wife’s birthday.

The gardens included a grotto

and a well to provide water for the castle

 Sculptures abound 

and balconies where there is a view over the town, the Neckar and the Old Bridge. 

We returned to base again by funicular.It is possible to cycle, walk or drive up to the various levels but parking is very restrictive. 

We exited at Kornmarkt

            A Covid centre in Kornmarkt

and into Fisch Square, where we visited the Church of the Holy Spirit famous for the fact that a dispute between Catholics and Protestants led to a wall being placed down the middle of the church to separate both communities.

 The wall was not removed until 1936!! 

A cruise on the Neckar appeared to be a pleasant way to complete the day - and so we cruised down the river  in a solar powered ship, while sipping a Pinot Gris. 

En route, we saw Hidelbergers enjoying the sun on  a beach by the river

and further on the students having a party with plenty of loud music and on the other side of the river

In addition, the view from the boat afforded great views of the Castle and the Old Bridge. 

We ate that night in the gardens of a former convent 

It is indeed a beautiful city. 

Luxembourg - Heidelberg.

Two and a half hours took us to Heidelberg. We booked into Staycity Aparthotels. With a car, one has to consider the availability of secure parking. 

Having checked in we took the nearby tram to the city centre about 4-5 stops away. We alighted at Platz Bismarck which is the hub of city transport. 

We had a pleasant walk down the banks of the Moselle

 to the Old Bridge, 

which was very impressive. From there we turned in towards the town centre, into Fisch Market Square and from there into H  Street - reputedly the longest street in Europe. 

On either side of the street stood high end shops, most of whose names I had never heard of. 

The street too was lined with restaurants. We ate a Germanic meal of pork and a substance that was a cross between noodles and gnocchi!! I’m not a fan of German food but in the interests of research!!! 

We returned to the apt.  

Brussels - Luxembourg

Today, we departed for Luxembourg where we are to stay only one night. We booked the Park Inn. After booking, we got a text from the hotel to say that due to  extensive city roadworks,  as it attempts to improve its transport infrastructure, which by comparison to Dublin is already excellent, that access to the hotel was compromised!!!

As we left Brussels, the rain poured down in torrents. Driving through the Ardennes, it continued to pour. 

Finally we arrived near Luxembourg but I missed the turn to the gare (station), not that I think it made much difference as when we arrived there, as advised earlier it was closed - I think to accommodate Covid testing centres. 

Round and around we went, the Sat Nav gave up at times ... Finally, we arrived at the Park Inn. We checked in and took a tram at the nearby railway station to the city centre. All public transport is free to all in Luxembourg. Well it is the second richest country in the world!! 

We toured the old city, had a drink in the Salles des Armes. 

The architecturally beautiful square was compromised by the presence of Mc Donald's and Pizza Hut .... money talks!!! 

We walked around the city centre and saw the Cathedral, 

the Congress of Deputies, 

the modern art gallery.

It appears that the whole city is under renovation with hoardings everywhere. 

It was a dull, heavy night but people were eating outside. In Luxembourg, whether one eats outside or inside, one must show one’s Covid Cert and it is photographed by the proprietor.  We ate outside at Le Square m, 20 Place d’Armes which was excellent. 

We took the tram back to the hotel. Unfortunately, our schedule didn’t allow for more time in Luxembourg city.  

Until tomorrow 

Antwerp

If it’s ..... it must be Antwerp!! 

We took the train from Boitford (place of residence) to Gare du Midi where we changed for Antwerp (€7.60 return  - duration 35 minutes each way.) 

On arrival at the very beautiful railway station, 

we set out for the old part of town. We are now in Flanders. 

Belgium is divided in two culturally - the French speaking Walloons in the southern half of the country and the Flemish speaking people reside in the northern half. Brussels acts as an intermediary having all road signs and documentation in both languages. The Walloon  economy based on Coal and Steel was the dominant economy in the 19th century but the economic focus has moved north based on the port of Antwerp in the 20th and 21st centuries. 

We made our way down to the Grot Markt - the centre of the old town - c.30 mins walk from the railway station 

En route, we discovered 

We arrived at the Grot Markt where the dominant feature was the Cathedral under restoration. Considering it’s size ( photo taken from distance ) , it must be continually under a state of repair.  

Many beautiful buildings stand proud in the square 

              The Rathaus (Town Hall)

It was a pleasant day and the Marketplace was lined with restaurants, populated by diners. The menus were all in Flemish (akin to German, I think), with no translation, so it was difficult to order food and drink. 

En route to St Charles Borromeo Church, we encountered one of the many Irish pubs, that peppered our trip

The Church was commissioned by the Jesuits in 1614 and contains many paintings by Rubens

From there with the aid of a local lady, seeing us perusing the map, asked us if we required help, we were directed to the river (Schelde). Our Good Samaritan opined that the map was useless. 

At the river was the equivalent of the London Eye!! 

We retraced our steps 

passing an old Bazaar, whose ground floor was occupied by a shopping centre and the upper floors by the Hilton Hotel, Back to the station and returned to Brussels where my cousin had a gourmet, traditional Belgian meal awaiting us.  

Brussels

This morning we headed for the most beautiful part of Brussels - the Grand Place. I first visited it in 1976 and many times since and it never ceases to amaze. 

It has a grandeur seldom equalled. 

We dined at a nearby restaurant where the waiter plied us with amuse bouche and a digestif with a little dessert for the price of a modest plate.  

We returned to base. It is a pity that during the 1960s, much of old Brussels was demolished to make way for motorways and underpasses. 

Tonight we were eating in one of Brussels most up market restaurants - restaurant Brugman. We thought we were jinxed when the taxi failed to arrive on time and eventually came 30 minutes late!! However, the restaurant manager was most charming as we had earlier advised them of our dilemma!! 

A special menu for €58 was a steal. An amuse bouche, a starter  of pasta with foie gras,  a most delicious steak so tender, a pre dessert and a dessert of a sinful chocolate combination for me. When we ordered a coffee to complete the meal, it came with delicious petit fours - the calories!! The Flemish must live on their sweet treats!! The wine was also reasonable - a meal such as this would cost twice the price in Dublin!! The chef even visited each table to hear our comments !! 

We returned home suitably fed !!