Yarra Valley - Mornington - Melbourne

Breakfast at Oscars was a little ‘Faulty Towerish’. While a chef had cooked dinner, this morning one of the owners  was in charge of breakfast. We were the only residents yet when we arrived in the dining room, no table was set for breakfast  and the hot water burner was turned off  - hence cold coffee !!The proprietor put his head out of the kitchen door and said he was running late!! At his request, we had nominated breakfast time! The receptionist arrived to make us tea and coffee. The cooked breakfast was just about edible - the scrambled eggs unappetizing and the tomatoes burnt. Nor did we receive what we had been requested to order for breakfast at check -in.  At $320 it was expensive!! 

Having quitted Oscars, we drove towards the Mornington Penninsula and arrived at the Peninsula Spa. 

( No photographs of pools permitted because others privacy compromised)

It was a delightful place, set in a wooded landscape with various types of pools to treat all ailments. It also included a steam room and a sauna. We spent two hours there - we could have stayed all day - but time didn’t allow.  

We departed for the Mornington  Peninsula. It was again a beautiful day. We arrived at the Port Sea Hotel - an iconic landmark of the Mornington Peninsula. . 

The view from the dining room over Port Philip Bay was spectacular.  

We ordered lunch. I had crab and guess what - it was deep fried!! Why do the Aussies desecrate their fabulous fish by deep frying it.??  After lunch, we walked along the jetty, where numerous fishermen awaited their catch!! We continued along the coast but the view in many cases was obscured by trees. 

We returned to Melbourne, having spent two days enjoying some of the delights of the state of Victoria. 

The Yarra Valley

Last night, we went to CHINCHIN, another Melbourne institution, I am reliably advised.  To eat at both The Empress of China and CHINCHIN, one has to queue to book a table and then wait - no advance booking!! We adjourned to a nearby hostelry and were called two  hours later!! The food was amazing - a fusion of foods too complex to describe here but so delicious that even on a weekday afternoon, there is a queue for tables. There are fixed price tasting menus or one can order from the an a la carte menu.  We chose the tasting menus. 

Again the city was buzzing - a young person’s paradise with loud music everywhere!!   

The morning commenced with breakfast at Neds - a bakery in South Yarra. Having collected the car, we set forth for the Yarra Valley. It is a beautiful, warm morning with a balmy breeze. It's reputed reach 30 today. How will we adjust to the reported appalling weather at home??

Our first call was to the Chandon Winery, part of the Moet et Chandon group. 

It was very commercialised so we departed having sampled one sparkling wine. A few kilometers further on, we visited Helen’s Hill Winery. 

It was quieter here and they were generous with their samples. We lunched on a cheese platter. 

We continued our tour with a visit to the Four Pillars. 

This distillery is famous for its gin, including one made with the addition of a shiraz!!! Unfortunately, it is in so much demand that stocks had run out. 

Our final call was to Innocent Bystander. 

Though tastings were generous, it was in fact a wine warehouse in a village. 

We drove to Oscars - our overnight destination. It is located in extensive grounds on the banks of the Yarra. 

We planned to see the sunset on the deck but unfortunately clouds gathered and obscured the sun. 

Dinner consisted of Scotch steaks for CC and J and kangaroo sausages for me. Food was delicious but at this stage I’m fooded out!! 

Tomorrow, we explore the Mornington  Penninsula....,,,

Hobart - Melbourne

Breakfast of fresh fruit, eggs graced with edible flowers and tea served in china cups befitted a hostelry with a long history 

We departed Longford for Hobart airport.- our journey was hampered by numerous road works and town speed limits. We boarded the flight to Melbourne (1hr) and taxied to South Yarra.  As it was evening rush hour, the traffic was very heavy both entering and leaving the city, which gave us ample opportunity to talk to our taxi driver, an electrical engineer, born in Dubai of Indian parents. He was working for a large engineering company here and completing his Masters. He hoped to do a PhD but wasn’t committing to Melbourne even though he enjoyed its multicultural acceptance - a far cry from the inately conservative city, I worked in, in the 70s. He was taxi-ing  part time. One has to admire the Indians - such hard workers. 

On arrival at our apartment - two doors down from J, we took the train - 2 stops - to Flinders Street station - that architecturally beautiful building hadn’t changed.   We walked to Chinatown. 

What a buzz! It was teeming with young people  celebrating the week-end. 

We adjourned to  a small restaurant renowned for its dumplings. 

We ate well. We left J to meet her friends and returned to the apartment to rest. 

This morning we are brunching with Js friends. They have been following my blog and want to feature in it!! It appears they are fascinated by the fact that I came  to work in Melbourne in the 70s and want to hear my recollections! It should be interesting !!!

We met for brunch (a Melbourne institution) at Como, a National Trust Property located in South Yarra. 

The weather was glorious for a late Autumn day. The temperature was c.24 as we sat outside.  We travelled with Sh from Abbeyfeale to the venue, then A from Askeaton arrived followed by Sa and  Hal both Corkonians. I’m glad J has found her Limerick roots - even if she had to go to Australia to do so.! The girls all want a mention as they’re following the blog with a special hello to Sa, whom I am reliably informed, is the blog’s greatest fan! 

The variety of brunch available was infinite. From corn + zuccchini fritters, cheese toast and bacon to eggs and bacon with an Aussie twist, unlike anything one would breakfast on in Ireland. The Aussies love their eggs and particularly pride themselves on their poached eggs which are slow cooked at 63F. These dishes were complimented with Tickled Pinks and Black and Blue - juices) , Long Blacks (black coffees) and Flat Whites (white coffees). Brunch was delicious and the company entertaining as the topics of conversation  turned to visa challenges and their return date to Ireland!  What a lovely group of girls.  

After brunch, CC, Jane and I visited the Botanical Gardens bathed in glorious sunshine. 

The trees were still clothed in green, it appears Autumn comes later in the Southern Hemisphere.  The range of blossoms was limited. You gardeners might enjoy researching the names? 

In the Botanical Gardens, we visited the War Memorial to the two World Wars. The war memorials are very important to the Aussies as Australia lost so many men in both wars. 

Later, we walked back to our apartment on a shaded street  pathway. 

What a wonderful way to spend a Saturday.! 

Tonight we’re going to meet my niece L in CHINCHIN, another Melbourne institution, I’m reliably informed. 

More tomorrow........

Tarraleah - Longford via Cradle Mt / Lake St Clair National Parks and Queenstown

We departed Tarraleah for Derwent Bridge where we entered  Cradle Mountain/Lake St Clair National Park.  The scenery was spectacular especially around Lake St Clair.  We lamented the fact that time didn’t permit us to take a walk. There was a really interesting 6/7 day walk from the lake to the top of Cradle Mountain.

We walked to the lake’s edge, 

En route we were warned to beware of: 

had a visit to the very informative museum and continued our journey through the National Park towards Queenstown, the largest town in western Tasmania. 

The area is heavily forested and everywhere one sees the results of bush fires and subsequent regeneration. 

The roads are very winding and many dead animals are to be seen along the roads. No car passed by - we had the road to ourselves. 

As we quitted the park at Lake Burbury 

again a beautiful lake of epic proportions., we entered the West Coast Range Mts and on to Queenstown. 

Our drive into Queenstown was even more challenging than heretofore as the road twisted and turned towards the town in the valley below.

The town was a shadow of its former glory. The Empire hotel had seen better days!

We visited the railway station, where CC had a chat with the driver of a departing train who informed him that his son should be landing in Ireland about that hour with the Irish girl he had met and hoped to marry. 

Leaving Queenstown was as challenging as its entry, up we climbed towards Rosebery and Tullah, into Cradle Valley (the terminus of the walk which commenced at Lake St Clair). On we continued towards Moina and Mole Creek, 

to Deloraine to Launceston. 

Approaching Launceston, we entered a very wide valley - a welcome relief from the difficult driving conditions heretofore. Near Launceston, we took the Hobart road with the intention of staying in a smaller town south of Launceston. After quite a search, ( accommodation is sparse in the area), we found a beautifully appointed B&B, The Racecourse Inn, which has been offering ‘refined hospitality’ to the weary traveller since 1861. Tomorrow we leave for Hobart airport and our return flight to Melbourne. 

Tasmania is interesting. Its scenery is stunning, its people friendly and helpful. However, all towns even Hobart appear to close by 21.00 - restaurants’ last orders are at 20.00 and the streets  are deserted after nightfall (1830/19.00hrs)! The food is composed of breaded and deep fried everything with chips. They are reputed to have a fine food  culture but I did not see any evidence of fine dining in the towns we visited.  In fact it was difficult  to avoid breaded food - even the best of prawns, scallops and squid were served deep fried - a disappointment.!! The only fish to escape the fryer was the oyster and were they delicious!

The distances are deceptive, What with the winding roads, areas of unfenced ranching,  the  threat of hitting a roo, if one drives after dark, numerous road works and 50km limit while driving through the towns, progress comes slowly.  

As for the weather - it varied from warm sunshine on our visit to Port Arthur to incessant rain on the west coast - the photographs tell the tale!! 

However, it was a most enjoyable trip especially revisiting the places I had seen on my last visit. Considering public transport is negligible and we hadn’t access to a car, I marvel at how much of the country we saw in the week spent here, so long ago! 

Hobart - Tarraleah via Port Aurthur

It’s Wednesday and I’m looking at the opening of the Commonwealth Games in Brisbane on television. There’s great excitement here at the arrival of Charles and Camilla to open the Games.  At the opening ceremony, the parade of nations illustrates the once might of the Britush Empire. 

This morning,we hired a car and set out for Port Arthur - a penal colony, a location almost impossible to escape from - almost all those who tried were drowned or recaptured. 

Port Arthur is located 96 km south of Hobart. - at the most southerly point  of the Tasman Penninsula - next stop the Antarctic.!!

Six Young Irelanders were deported to Port Arthur in the 1840s. one being William Smith O’ Brien.  Having proclaimed himself a political prisoner, he was imprisoned in his own cottage. 

The prison closed here in 1853 as the government regarded its maintenance as too costly. All who were guilty of minor crimes were employed on the island. Only those who had committed more serious crimes were sent to other prisons. 

Travelling is not what it was!! When I visited Port Arthur some forty years ago, the site was not commercialized. Today, it is highly so as is Uluru (Ayers Rock) and  the Grand Canyon which I have also revisited)  The entrance fee is $39 (€25). To obviously justify this entrance fee, the fee includes a cruise on the bay, where we saw a Royal Australian Navy submarine. 

and  a walking tour. The tour and the cruise added little to the experience.  The most enjoyable part of the experience is to walk to the various buildings oneself and reading about the function of each building. 

On purchasing our entrance ticket, we were asked where we were from. The seller informed us that she had been to Ireland, had driven the Wild Atlantic Way and loved Dublin. She added that she was determined to find William Smith O’ Brien’s statue on O’ Connell Street as I was to find his cottage here ! I didn’t admit that I didn’t know where William Smith O’Brien’s statue stood in O’ Connell Street.!! How many of you, dear readers know it’s location? 

We knew that we couldn’t reach Queenstown by nightfall so we decided that we would stop en route. Once night falls, one must travel at 45km per hour in the event that a roo (kangaroo)  might cross your path!

The scenery on the trip to and from Hobart to Port Arthur  was  stunning - the road lined with beaches and acquamarine seas. No photograph could do it justice.!  

En route we stopped at scenic Pirates Bay, the Tasman Arch 

and the Blow Hole 

which wasn’t performing today. I had visited all these sites on my previous visit. 

Returning to Hobart, we drove north, then west in the direction of Queenstown/Strahan on the west coast. It  was very scenic as we drove along the waters edge. 

Once we turned west, we  climbed into mountainous terrain. 

There was very little traffic as we passed the towns of Hamilton and Ouse. As the sun was setting, we were concerned at the lack of accommodation along the route. Finally, I saw a advertisement for accommodation in Tarraleah but would any be available?  It was still school Easter holidays! 

As the sun was setting, 

we arrived at Tarraleah (Aborigine for Forrester Kangaroo)  at the  edge of the National Park.  Much to our relief there was a room and dinner available in the local holiday village -  welcome news after a long day on the road! Our room in the old school house was  beautifully presented. 

The village of Tarraleah was established in the 1930s to house engineers building the hydro dam.  By 1980

it had a population of 1600. The town closed in 1996. The population of the area is now 4 and the land in the area has reverted to scrub! 

The area has an Irish connection - a man named Martin Cash, born in Enniscorthy, shot another man on account of a woman and as result he was transported to Botany Bay and later to Port Arthur, from where he escaped and continued his life of crime. After being given a ticket of leave, he married and gave up crime for the post of constable!! 

An interesting overnight sojourn!!