Perth and Freemantle.

Today Easter Sunday, we had brunch. Brunch is a real institution in Oz, it appears. Coffee is very important to the Aussies. 

I assumed a tall black was an Americano but even after adding water, it was still too strong.  I ate mushroom with avocado, ricotta  and beets on toast. It was quite delicious. 

                              Baked Eggs

We then repaired to King’s Park, one of the largest  urban parks in the world. The park is situated on an escarpment of the Darling mountains and has been a recreation centre ever since the colonists arrived. 

It was a beautiful, sunny morning as we arrived in the park. It’s situation on the banks of the Swan river makes for a spectacular setting. 

We  walked along the Law walk and entered the Botanic Gardens. The Auusies are very protective of their fora and fauna. They have different levels of protection depending on the plant’s vulnerability to extinction. As it is Autumn here, the variety of plants in bloom was limited. There is no indication in Oz of the autumnal colours we experience at home. 

Their ‘ king’ is the  Menzies Banksia. It goes through a number of stages from bud to blossom. 

The Gardens also sported a section relating  to women’s achievements in Oz.

What a change from my first visit when women with a degree were a source of wonderment and we had to hide the fact that we were graduates, when applying for jobs! 

As it is Easter Sunday the lawns hosted families with their picnics, playing cricket (yes even with the national teams’s recent debacle in South Africa!)  and tennis. 

We walked to the lake and having admired the quality of the Aussie lifestyle, we took a taxi to Perth station and boarded a train to Fremantle. 

Unlike Friday night on our return from Rottnest Island,  there was a great buzz around. 

We went to see the famous Freemantle markets. 

We graced the old Freemason Hotel 

A festival of comedians and street performers packed the mainstreet, entertaining an appreciative audience.  The pubs were full but a family atmosphere prevailed. 

We adjourned to ‘ Bread and Common’  a restaurant recommended to J and it didn’t disappoint.

We partook of freshest of oysters, 

followed by salmon mousse, squid and of course kangaroo or as the Aussies say  ‘roo’. It tastes not unlike a very tender, fillet steak.

The variety and quality of the bread was excellent - hence the name. 

We returned to Perth station 

and decided to visit the newly restored Melbourne hotel, the oldest hotel in Perth. However, it’s interior disappointed. 

We taxied back to the hotel. We depart for Hobart, Tasmania via Melbourne tomorrow - 4 hours Melbourne and a further hour to Hobart. 

To be continued.......

Margaret River

Margaret River - what a great trip!

Margaret River town is about 3.1/2 hours drive from Perth. To do it in a day, we opted for a tour. I’m not a fan of tours but Aviator / Adams Pinnacle scored very highly on Trip  Advisor, we booked. 

We were collected at the hotel at 07.20 and taken to a meeting point. I now know why I hate tours, we waited until 08.10. I later learned that the pick up bus had to return to one hotel on three occasions because the passengers were not in the foyer at the spppointed time!! 

We set out for Busselton, the gateway to Margaret River. Driving through farmland  with grazing cattle, we arrived at Busselton Jetty - the longest timber jetty in the Southern Hemisphere. 

           Jetty - it stretches far into the distance!

Our next stop was Bootleg  Brewery, where we stopped for lunch and beer and cider tastings!! 

After lunch we continued through the forest to Sandalford Winery, where we tasted their produce 

From there we continued to Manmoth Cave for a guided tour of the limestone caves. They were very spectacular cathredal like caverns dripping (forgive the pun) with limestone stalagmites, stalactites , curtains and columns. 

We continued to Boranup Forest with its enormous Karri trees. (In the Aboriginal language ‘up’ means a watering place). 

On to Augusta, where we visited the Cape Leeuwin 

Lighthouse 

and where the Southern Ocean and the Indian Ocean meet. 

Finally we arrive at the town of Margaret  River, 

passing numerous wineries en route. Wine production commenced here in the 1960s. Prior to its commencement, soil surveys, and general weather patterns were completed  to ascertain the area’s suitability for vine growing.  It quickly established very sophisticated marketing techniques and became better known in the wine world at the expense of longer established wineries such as Swan valley. The town itself was of no consequence and here is no proper river as our guide showed us the puddle that is Margaret River!!!

We then adjourned to a resort for dinner and set off on the return journey to Perth. We arrived back at the hotel at 22.00 - a long but most enjoyable day that gave us s great flavour of the Margaret river area situated south of Perth. 

Rottnest Island

Today Friday, Good Friday, we took the train from Perth to Freemantle. Trains depart every 15 minutes and the journey takes 25 minutes. 

The sight of the P&O office reminded me of my departure on a P&O liner to Singapore from thence by air to London on our return from our 6 month gap 1/2 year in Australia. (was the term invented then?). 

From Freo (Fremantle to you and me) we  set sail  for Rottnest Island.

It  is an island 11km and 4.5 km at its widest point  and ferries leave from  Freo every hour. 

The crossing is 19.7 km takes 25 minutes. A number of tour companies operate ferries. (c $60 return fare) 

The island had 63 beaches and 20 secluded bays. There one encounters the famous Quokka, 

colonies of Sea Lions, Fur Seals and Whale - September to December only. The island sports  the remnants of Coastal Defence systems installed in preparation for WW11 and a maze of tunnels beneath the impressive WW11 gun on Oliver Hill. 

Like much of Australia, Rottnest was once a penal colony and early colonial cottages dating from the 1840s were Home to prison wardens and pilot boat crews. 

On arrival, we visited the tourist bureau. No motorized transport is allowed on the  island with the exception  of tour buses (I saw one)  and the hop on hop off buses which pass various appointed stops  every half hour ($20). The only other acceptable mode of transport on the island is the bicycle. You can bring your own or hire one. 

We embarked at Thompson - the only point on the island where you can buy food with the exception of Geordie Bay, close to Thompson. We hadn’t realised this and consequently had nothing from breakfast (a slice of toast) to 16.00 hrs, when we arrived in Geordie. Some tourists arrived well equipped with their cool boxes but alas not us!! 

CC took the Oliver Hill Railway to Oliver Hill Guns, a defence settlemebt with guns and a maze of tunnels built to protect Perth in the event of invasion during WW11. The gun was never fired in anger- the area never suffered attack. 

J and I commenced our trip on the southern side of the island. Our first  stop was Little Salmon Bay.

It was a virtual paradise with its aquamarine waters lapping the finest sand and peppered with yachts - the playground of the wealthy of Perth. 

We walked to Salmon Bay and caught the next bus to Cape Vlamingh, where seals are visible in summer but alas it is Autumn! Here we had a view of the Indian Ocean. The waters were quite rough

and during WW11 two lookout post were built here   This is the most western point on the island. 

We continued north and on to Narrow Neck, the narrowest point in the island where both coasts could be seen. The north coast was not as attractive as the south as the bays and coves were larger. We arrived at Georgie Bay, where we purchased some food and took the bus back to our point of departure at Thompson Bay. 

We returned to Thompson and decide to have a glass of wine - but alas no alcohol was being served without food. I thought it might be a State Law but no the island’s decision as visitors frequently  get too drunk, the cashier informed us!! The food option was a rather large pizza!! As we had eaten we declined ! Hence no alcohol!!  

The 17.55 ferry took us back to Freo. Dinner and an early return to Perth.   Tomorrow Margaret River - we have to be ready for collection at 07.20!! More anon!! 

Perth, W.A.

If it’s Thursday, it must be Perth. 

Perth’s  first inhabitants arrived c. 40,000 -60,000 years  ago.  In March 1827, Captain James Sterling of the Royal Navy arrived in the Swan River with its many natural attractions;  previous navigators encountered only inhospitable environments. In 1829, the first settlement was established. Due to severe labour shortages, the British sent convicts between 1850 and 1868 to help establish the settlements of Perth, its port Freemantle and Guilford - the latter a rich, fertile area to supply the inhabitants with food. 

In 1890, gold was discovered in Kimberley and Kalgoorlue. A population explosion resulted and Perth became the area’s capital. In the 1940s it supplied minerals for WW11.  Today, it’s economy relies heavily on minerals 

On arrival last evening,  we tried to stay up until midnight but I awoke at 03.45 and couldn’t sleep again! I finally surfaced at 11.00 ! 

We walked the 2 km Riverside Drive, the Swan river pedestrian walkway,  into Barrack Street Jetty, where most of the tour operators are located. It was 25’ with a pleasant breeze.  

En route we met the camels that  can take you on a tour down Riverside Drive and its environs. The camels were the long haul method of transport in WA  in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. 

 

I had booked online a trip to Margaret River, famous for its wineries, through Aviator, whose agents are Adams Pinnacle Tours. I visited them at Barrack St jetty to confirm our pick up at the hotel on Saturday morning - more anon....

The city is only 200 years old so it does not have the attractions of a European city. At nearby Barracks Square, we saw the Bell Tower.

The bells, dating from the 14th century, originated in the Church of St Martin in the Fields, London.  The bells were rung to celebrate many historic occasions such as the defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588 and the victory at El Alameinin 1942 and the coronation of every British king since George 11in 1727. If you fancy, you can chime the bells yourself, an experience, I am reliably informed, is not available elsewhere on the planet!!

We continued up Barrack St towards the CBD. We passed the Supreme Court of W.A. set  in a beautiful palm filled park. Match that Dublin! 

Further on, what I thought was a Church, was indeed the Town Hall - the plaque outside recounted its history- almost 200 years old!

We turned into pedestrianised and smoke free Hay St Mall lined with colourful,  autumnal trees to protect shoppers from the sun.

We continued into Murray Mall, where the Wesleylian Church was holding an exhibition on a modern interpretation of the Stations of the Cross - it is after all Holy Thursday! 

We took the CAT -a 3 line circular free bus service servicing the CBD and its surroundings. The red line took us back to our hotel, where we will await J’s arrival. En route we passed St George’s Cathedral, of architectural interest in that the old church has a very modern extension to the front. 

Two other points of interest which time may deny me a visit are the Perth Cultural Centre and Kings Park, reputed to be the largest city park in the world!

More tomorrow - from Rottnest Island.......

Doha to Perth

That whiskey again!! We had to clear emigration and security before picking up the bottle. Having acquired it from Customs, we proceeded to the gate, where we were again put through security and guess what the bottle couldn’t go in hand baggage - the Australian Customs  will only allow Duty Free purchased at envarkation even though it was in a sealed bag! It had to be put in the hold! So readers beware of taking alcohol to Australia.!!

11.05 hours to Perth.!  It’s 01.55 and all passengers are aboard. We’re scheduled to take off at 02.05 and the engines are beginning to roll. The flight is only about 60% full. We’re surrounded by small children so I hope they sleep! 

As I had surprisingly slept for most of the trip, I didn’t notice the time passing. I finished watching The Lady in the Van, interrupted on arrival in Doha. Maggie Smith is a wonderful actor. 

On arrival, the automatic passport machines made emigration  painless, unlike Qatar, where the waiting was endless. We collected our bags and were out on the concourse awaiting the bus to the city - frequent service Aus $3.80. On arrival at the depot, there appeared to be a lack of taxis but we were soon directed to a rank and within minutes we arrived at Mantra on Hay Street.  

A snack and its off to bed. We’ll check out Perth tomorrow. ....