Day 8 St Kitts Nevis

We awoke to a view,  not of the sea, but of another ship, the Norwegian Dawn,  docked beside us. 

Today we left the ship early to organise the rail tour.

Celebrity was charging US $99 pp for the trip. However, we soon realised that the cruises seem to have a monopoly. All the local agents in Basseterre, the country’s capital, could sell any tour but the train. Of course, we had to take the train so we had no option but to pay up!!! 

We toured the town while awaiting the train trip. This is a British Protectorate and had a better Caribbean ambiance than Americanised Puerto Rico or St Thomas.

This island was once divided between the French and the British, but it appears the British prevailed with the Treaty of Paris 1783 giving them full possession - driving is on the left and the former sugar plantations had proprietors with names such as Dawson and Saldier. The Irish came here in the 16th century to work as slaves in the sugar cane plantations. 

The buildings were very colourful - what one imagines the Caribbean to look like. 

Berkeley Memorial Clock was erected 1883 in honour of a deceased estate owner. It is the focus of streets, an octagonal plaza, not unlike Piccadilly Circus, London. 

The streets are resplendent in their French and English architecture. 

The Catholic  church 

dominated Independence Square , 

though the population is only 6% Catholic. 

Legal eagles - the Supreme Court sits nearby. 

The area abounded with tourist shops - tourism is their chief industry now that the sugar cane industry met its demise in 2004. However, it is seasonal, from November - April as there is a threat of hurricanes for the remainder of the year! 

We were taken on a 20 minute bus ride to meet the train. The narrow gauge railway was constructed between 1912-1916 to bring the sugar cane from the fields to the processing factory st Basseterre 

Our guide gave us a detailed account of  this tiny island. It has a population of only 15,500.  It is known as the Gibraltar of the West Indies and has an impressive mountain top Fort. 

On arrival at the railways station, we boarded the double decker train for a 30 mile tour. There was ample room on top. Most stayed in the air conditioning carriage below.

We travelled along the northern Atlantic coastline, which is rougher than the Caribbean.

It is from the Atlantic that they experience the hurricanes. We passed many stone built churches  - Catholic, Lutheran and Anglican - many built up to 300 years ago and yet they appeared to withstand the hurricanes better than the local timber-constructed ones. 

To our right a black sandy beach - the sand is black as this is a volcanic area. To our left was the extinct volcano Mount Luamuiga (3,792ft)   

Now that the sugar cane industry is no more,  the farmers grow a range of crops - peanuts, vegetable varieties and a little sugar cane. Cows, sheep and goats are the main animals. The monkey was introduced by the French and its population is out of control!  

The train travelled on , crossing many bridges    

until it turned toward the Caribbean side. The waters are calmer and the climate is wetter. 

The influence of the Chinese is seen everywhere - building hotels, schools and hospitals. 

There is no housing crisis here! The government builds houses for the poor in every village, fine structures often with an ocean view! 

Wealth is in evidence too in some of the finer homes. 

We returned to our ship, viewing, way in the distance, Brimstone Hill Fortress, 750 feet high, a UNESCO world heritage site, one of the best preserved forts in the Americas, commanding a panoramic view of the Caribbean. 

We sailed at 1700hrs. Up on the dock, leaving Basseterre behind 

The sun is setting 

as we set sail for Fort Lauderdale - ETA 0700 hrs Sunday next.  

Day 7 St Thomas

As I awoke,  a chink in the curtain revealed bright sunshine peeking into the darkness of the room. We had dropped anchor. We had arrived in St Thomas’s capital, Charlotte Amalie. The life boats were being launched but we were assured that this was a safety procedure required by the US - this is a US. Protectorate. 

A 5 minute taxi ride ($4pp) took us to downtown. This is a great place to shop for precious stones, watches and cameras as there is neither duty nor sales tax. 

Having completed our purchases, we took a 2 hour tour of the island ($25pp price is government regulated) we had a taxi to ourselves and our guide was very pleasant and informative. 

All the way up, the scenery was breathtaking. 

Our first stop was Drake’s Seat, where we got a good view of Magen’s Bay below. 

It was very inviting with its crystal clear aquamarine water. It is regarded as one of the world’s top beaches by National Geographic,  where celebrities holiday. 

We continued to Mountain Top, climbing steeply as we went.  Again the view was spectacular and our guide pointed out the British and US protectorates in the ocean below. 

And again Magen’s Bay revealed itself in all its glory.  

We returned through the mountains

and back to Crown Bay, where our ship had docked. 

There was some evidence of the havoc the hurricane had caused but the clean up has been spectacular. 

Their reliance on tourism, particularly on cruises accelerated the process. 

It was all on board for 15.30 hrs and we sail at 17.00. 

Before dinner, we attended the evening show. Yesterday, it was most disappointing. Enduring a single comedian for 1.1/2 hrs was demanding especially as he was quite crude at times! Tonight the dancers entertained us once more. They are good but not quite as good as what we experienced on the Queen Mary. 

We had dinner and retired. Our last port of call is St Kitts Nevis. We dock at 0700hrs so we hope to exit the ship as soon as possible to arrange a trip on the only train running on the Caribbean islands. It once transported sugar cane from the plantations to the port but it was closed because of less demand for sugar cane once sugar beet was used to manufacture sugar. However, it was realised that it might be a tourist attraction and so it re-opened in 2003.

Good night ... details of train ride tomorrow ......

Day 6 At Sea / San Juan , Puerto Rico.

Last evening we attended the Theatre. The show was excellent. Dancers and acrobats entertained us with their take of world cities. I’ll leave you, dear reader, to guess what cities are referred to: 

We then adjourned for dinner. 

I wager you never attended a silent disco. For me it was a first. It’s silent as each attendee gets headphones with a choice of three types of music - Caribbean, Pop and Modern. 

 

The colour reveals your choice of music - mine was red - the Caribbean, apparently not very popular with the dancers!! 

The clocks were going forward by one hour as we sail east so we retired early.....

Having breakfasted in the Grand Cuvee, we went to the bookings office and booked a cruise in the Antarctic for February 2019!! 

Almost there !!! This afternoon, we arrive at our first port of call - San Juan, Puerto Rico’s capital city, first conquered by Juan Ponce in 1508

Spanish influence is evident in its fortifications, museums and cathedrals. It is a city of cobble stone streets lined with 16th and 17th century colonial buildings among the most notable are Fort Felipe del Moro and Fort San Cristobal and Ka Fortaleza, the oldest executive mansion in continuous use in the Americas. 

We disembarked at 15.30 hours and must return to the ship by 22.00 hrs. 

Leaving the ship with the ocean on our left, we first went to the Tourist Office to obtain a map. Having acquired same, we continued to Paseo de la Princesa - a beautiful tree lined pedestrian walkway. 

We continued through the only extant city gate , 

entered the old walled town and continued to Castillo San Felipe del Moro. The fortress overlooks the entrance to San Juan Bay - one of the largest fortifications built by the Spanish in the Caribbean. 

It was unsuccessfully attacked by the Spanish and the Dutch in the16th and 17th century respectively. 

We returned to the town to visit Cathedral de San Juan, which was in need of repair probably as a consequence of the recent hurricanes which hit the area. 

We continued to the other side of the island in temperatures that must have been in the 30s. We stopped for a drink at a picturesque local pub. 

Pouring over my map, I was approached by a friendly policeman to enquire if he could help. He directed us on our way, advising us to hurry as Castillo San Cristobal would close at 1800 hrs. 

We arrived with 15 minutes to spare having passed the impressive theatre as we walked. The Castillo site guards the eastern gate to the walled city. Covering 27 acres, it is the largest fortification built by the Spanish in the New World. 

We returned to the shopping area, lined with impressive colonial buidings 

One sported the following: 

and visited a few shops but didn’t purchase. Shopping is supposed to be better in St. Thomas, tomorrow’s destination. 

It was now dark as we returned to the ship

 

San Juan was a pleasant surprise. It was a more beautiful city than I had anticipated, the locals were very friendly and there was little evidence of the effects of the hurricanes that swept the island  late last year. 

We dined, attended a comedy show and retired   A long day awaits tomorrow in St Thomas. 

READ ST THOMAS before reading ST KITTS 

Day 5 At sea.

Last night we went to the Grand Cuvee for dinner. We had a window table to ourselves. One is only seated for dinner, breakfast and lunch is free seating. 

The menu bodes well - among the many choices for starters were scallops, muscles salmon etc and mains consisted of hake, lobster tail, Beef Wellington etc.  Desert choices were  baked Alaska (I haven’t had it for years - not since my first trip to the US in the 70s), and varieties of cakes, puddings and ice- creams. The portions were small but when one has lunch, there is no need for large portions. 

After dinner, we adjourned to the theatre for the show. It was entertaining as a foursome - two guys and two girls performed songs with orchestral sounds made by their microphones  alone!! 

After an hour, we adjourned to the pool area (Level 12) to ring in the New Year. 

It was alive with people. 

As the midnight hour approached, more guests joined in. I’d estimate the area comfortably held 2,000 people and the champagne was flowing! A lively band entertained us and counted down the New Year.

There were also other venues celebrating the birth of 2018 - probably a little more sedately! Last year, we celebrated New Year in Wellington, NZ. It was a wet, cold night with a chilly wind blowing in from the Cook Straits, which marred the celebrations somewhat - so much so that I had to check my NZ blog to jog my memory!!

I had the best sleep I’ve had in years. I suspect that the ship sung me a lullaby! 

We breakfasted in the Grand Cuvée restaurant - the main restaurant. If one books the Aqua or    Suite class, one has different restaurants. 

A great selection of juices, cereals, eggs, waffles and pastries were available. The staff are very polite and attentive - they will accommodate your every wish. I can understand then why Celebrity  Silhouette, our ship, has been awarded the world’s number one cruise ship. 

                     Celebrity Centre

A view of Celebrity Centre from Deck 15. 

We then went for a seminar on shore tours. The tours are very expensive starting at US$99 pp. As the ship docks near the cities, I think we’ll do our own thing. Apart from the cost, I’m not a fan of being herded around in a tourist bus!!! 

Shopping is big in these islands- especially precious stones. I think that when we land in St Thomas on Wednesday, I will make a purchase - what, I haven’t decided ..... We also attended a seminar  on shopping (I swore I wouldn't) but the fact that Celebrity Cruises will guarantee your purchases at a number of designated stores is tempting! 

Lunch beaconed. I know I’ve just had breakfast!! For lunch there is a choice of venues but I prefer the dining room. Again a great selection ... The Maitre D’ enquired if we’d like to join a table. We agreed and joined a family of four from NYC. He was a doctor, she a nurse, their son in IT and their daughter a speech therapy undergraduate. Their son had just returned from a visit to Ireland, stayed at the Shelbourne, ate at Guilbauds and Chapter1 and took tours around the country. His mother was most anxious to visit and we advised to visit in the Spring or the Fall (Autumn) . 

Afterwards, we adjourned to the pool deck at Level 14 and  realised why there were so few lunching in the Dining Room. Out on deck were three restaurants in addition to the Ocean Cafe nearby. 

On the deck above (Deck 15 - the highest deck) was the Lawn Tennis Club - an area of grass where lunch is served on white clothed tables. It was all so civilized - a British institution with an American twist. 

I am now sitting by the pool. The temperature is perfect with a nice warm breeze. I believe from Britain Today (one of a number of publications which keeps us in touch with the outside world) that it was only 7 in Dublin and the west has experienced Storm Dylan !! It must be at least 25 here! What a life!! 

Day 4 At sea.

Yesterday afternoon we took the 120 bus to the downtown terminal and then with a transfer ticket, boarded the 208 bus and arrived in Little Havana

Calle Ocho is 

in the centre of Little Havana, a centre for those who fled Cuba after the Revolution. (Fare $2.60pp)

The street was full of colour - men playing dominoes in the street 

restaurants reminiscent of Havana 

and many cigar stores selling what proposed to be Cuban cigars but I believe it is illegal to sell Cuban cigars in the US!!! 

We had a Cuban coffee - rich and sweet. Then we continued down Calle Ocho (8th Street) 

and boarded the 208 to return to the terminus. We waited in vain for the 120 and eventually settled for the S bus which dropped us reasonably near our hotel at Collins and 17th. 

We ate at Via Emilia, an Italian restaurant at 15th and Lennox. The food was excellent especially the pasta made in-house on a daily basis.  

We quitted Miami Beach today. We were pleased with the Hotel Flora’s location adjacent to all city attractions. Be warned however that in high season, around X-Mas and New Year, hotels here in South Beach are very expensive. Our 3 star hotel cost $300 per night. However, it’s convenient location on Collins Street with buses on nearby Washington and 13th st. - 50 metres from the hotel. Here one may board free trolley buses around the city, take a bus 120 to Aventura Mall or downtown. or to the airport no.150. All fares are $2.35 pp. 

To board Celebrity Cruises Silhouette, our home for the next week, we had to go to Everglades cruise terminal. This necessitated a bus to airport €2.25, a train to Fort Lauderdale €5 and a taxi from the train station to the cruise terminal €22. This was all done so we could experience the train journey aboard Tri rail !!!!  

On arrival our bags were taken from us and we set about checking in! It was organised chaos, passports checked numerous times, once through a security scanner, ESTA checked and finally, one hour later, we got our passes and boarded A welcome glass of Vueve Cliquot greeted us. The Queen Mary was much better organised but in fairness not all passengers embarked at Southampton, some had earlier boarded at Hamburg and others still were doing a return trip!! One elderly gentleman told me that he took multiple cruises annually, it was cheaper than a nursing home!! So there’s an idea for your old age.!! 

Finally we reached our state room. Our bags had been delivered. 

From our balcony, the port lay before us. 

It was beautifully appointed with a balcony to enjoy the evening sun. We adjourned to the Ocean View Cafe for lunch. Food from around the world was available, from Asian to Mexican to American and European. All tastes were catered for. 

After lunch we attended the mandatory fire drill and afterwards we returned to our room to rest as the ship sailed out of the harbour,  on time at 16.15 hrs  accompanied by the US Harbour Patrol with a machine gun to the ready!! 

Destination: San Juan, Puerto Rico 

It’s been a long day as we had quitted the hotel at  0930 this morning.! 

Dinner is at 20.30 and after it is a show at 22.00 and various venues are available to ring in 2018, depending on one’s taste.  And so we sail the high seas.....