2551 MILES - mostly by train from Pretoria to Dar - 26 * - 6 * south of the equator!
But the train, the Tazara.........
However, as I have been off air for the last three days, I'll fill you in, dear patient reader, on all that's happened - life goes on blog or no blog!
It's Friday for blog purposes. Last night we went to No 1 restaurant in Lusaka to celebrates CC 's birthday.🎂 The hotel porter had to run across the road to the taxi rank - if you could call it a taxi rank - it had no identification nor had it taxis!!
The taxi driver assured the hotel porter that he knew where the restaurant was. We agreed the fare in advance - (very important) and set off. Down the road,he made a kamakasi turn on a very busy road and returned to the rank whereupon he asked the other drivers where the restaurant might be located! They didn't appear to know! A net of phone calls later, we set out. I thought he was taking us back to Livingstone! Eventually he pulled in at a security gate and asked the security man - he couldn't help! No 1 restaurant and no one appeared to know it! CC gave him the telephone number and he rang - luckily, he had overshot by only a km or two!
We arrived. As it was an Indian restaurant, it was graced mostly by Indian families. We were given a very extensive wine list and after choosing three or four that were not in stock, I asked what they had - one, a South African Nederburg - red, white and rose. We get it in Ireland it's cheap and it gives me a headache. It did - the only one I've had on the trip.
We waited a half hour for starters and a long wait again for the main course. The food was only passable - even to CC who likes Indian food , I'm not a fan.
This morning, we had to rise at 05.00 hrs to be at the bus station for 06.00 hrs . We put on the mobile alarms but asked for a wake up call. We had left the room, and on our way to breakfast when the night porter met us - it was the 0500 wake - up call. It was now 0525hrs!!
They put on an early breakfast for us, the booked taxi didn't arrive so the porter had to run to the rank again. We arrived at the station. It was teeming with life,
We travelled through the countryside stopping at town and village to drop and collect passengers and their copious luggage.
The activity at each stop was frenetic. Hawkers selling their wares to the passengers through the bus windows. It was noticeable that it was women and children only - no men to be seen. At the roadside were stalls selling all types of vegetables some recognisable; others not.
Finally after 3 hours we arrived in Kapuri Moshi - the station from which the Tazara left for Dar el Salaam.
It was now 0930 and the train didn't leave til 1400 but we could not take a chance on the later bus as we might miss the train.
We got our tickets,which like everything in Africa, takes time! However, they did recognise the reservation that we had made three months ago. We booked a complete first class carriage for ourselves as we did not want company- a carriage contained 4 bunks.
There was no coffee shop at the station but CC found a shop in a petrol station. However, like good scouts, we were prepared for this eventuality and had our flask of hot water, so we made tea. A visit to the toilets was an experience - they were the dirtiest toilets I have ever encountered anywhere. My CC took a photograph, suffice it to say that I won't inflict it on you, dear reader, I have some respect for your sensitivities!
I decided in the interests of all you train anoraks, who read this blog, that I would go out on the platform and take some video footage and a few stills.
I filmed the station, the loading of the Tazara,
the copper filled wagons (Tanzania is a major exporter).
I filmed the Tazara with all its logos. No one passed any remark. I returned to the waiting room and then my CC went to do the same only to be instantly ordered off the platform by a policeman! I had even videoed the police van!
My CC met a South Korean girl in her thirties im the waiting room (built by the Chinese and it showed its lack of maintenance since.....)
No trains on above timetable!
while I was filming, in your interests, dear reader. She was taking the Tazara too. We chatted and then a Japanese family appeared: father, mother and two young sons. We were the only 7 non natives on the train.
The train was to depart at 14.00 hrs but it didn't depart until15.20. We boarded and when I entered the cabin, I was appalled! The place hadn't been properly cleaned in years and dirt was ingrained. The toilet was just a slight improvement on the station version and in addition the bathroom was not conducive to washing one's self .... AND we had to endure this for TWO Days and TWO NIGHTS til 16.00 - two days later!
If I had any say in the matter, I would fire the management instantly - how they can preside over such filth amazes me. A day later I went to the Examiiner's room ( Crew Room) to charge my phone. I omitted to tell you that the plugs in our first class cabin did not work, neither did the fan, the reading lights, nor the windows; they had catches missing, which necessitated a crew member having to lift the window and mosquito screen up and down as required. The mirror hadn't been cleaned for years nor the ceiling light, which as a result didn't yield much light. We were not the only sufferers - the Korean lady and the Japanese family had a similarly neglected cabins. We joked with the Japanese couple - as we compared it to the Shinkansen in Japan, where the guard observes the clock and as the second hand reaches the time, the flag is waved and the train departs. No Bento Boxes or bowing, white gloved conductors on the Tasara!!
The first class cabin!
When I entered the Examiner 's room, there were two young men sitting there. I asked if they were drivers but no they were the Tasara's electricians!!!!! One asked 'cup of tea? Mama? ' I declined. A train driver arrived to join the boys who had their own Bunsen burner to make the tea -health and safety?? The train driver asked me how could I travel on this train? I admitted it was not up to standard. He told that he was married with three small children, who lived in Dar but he was transferred to the Tanzanian /Zambian border and that necessitated him renting. He told me his wife had a job in Dar and the children were settled in school. He was in his second year of Civil Engineering and did I think it possible that he could emigrate to Ireland? . He knew a lot about Ireland, including details of its property crash!! He added that it was impossible to improve one's self in Tanzania, as he would wish!
We invited Won, the Korean girl to join us for an aperitif. We had whiskey and wine. She was most embarrassed and kept apologising that she could offer nothing - that her mother had taught her to 'always bring something to the table' - a very kindly sentiment, don't you agree, dear reader?
Dinner arrived. It was as ordered - but one chicken wing and two circles of rice, garnished with a piece of Watermelon, nicely served though high on carbohydrate, low on protein but what can you expect for €1.50?
I asked the waiter - one got cabin service in First Class - it was indeed better than eating in the Dining Room, which exhibited the same characteristics as as the rest of the train - if I could have tea? He said for breakfast and I said that the Irish drink tea all the time. He laughed and agreed to fill the flask with boiling water and it was boiling! The staff were the saving grace of the Tasara - nothing was too much for them to do for you.
Day one was over - the bunk was dressed with one sheet and two blankets and one pillow for the 4 bunks! We were to receive a towel and s toilet roll but they never materialised- surprise surprise. !!
Good night!
