French Quarter Day II

This morning, we awoke to a bitterly cold morning. As well clothed as our wardrobe would allow,  we set off for breakfast. The wind chill factor was high. We were freezing - and multiple cups of coffee made no impression!! 

We purchased a Jazzy pass for the street cars - $3 for the day. We decided to use this means of transport to see the city and remain warm.  As we boarded, a group of teenage students and their teacher boarded too. Immediately, the driver informed them that they would have to give up their seat if anyone over 35 got in!! One smart Alec asked if the person was 34 at which time the teacher replied if I give you the eye, you get up. Dublin bus / Luas take note! 

The first journey took us along the main hub of the modern city - Canal street - final stop the cemeteries !! Next we journeyed along the Mississippi - very scenic .  

We took the next journey to the Amtrax Depot to indulge the transport enthusiast among us. 

Finally, we took a trip along Charles Avenue. This had been recommended as a journey through upmarket New Orleans and indeed it was.... Huge houses, as one would see in the best southern movies, graced the former plantation, with their rocking chairs on the veranda. It is so cold today that many of their garden plants were covered in plastic to protect them from the frost. The area wax graced by many private schools andLoyola  University. 

It was interesting to observe that most of the people gracing this area were white while the population of the city as a whole is predominantly black - I assume descendants of the African slaves, who once worked the plantations hereabouts. 

They claimed  the Charles Ave street car, which commenced service in 1835, was the oldest continuous suburban railway in the world but they are mistaken .... Dublin to Dunlaoghaire (formerly Kingstown) has that honour,  as it opened the year before in 1834 ! 

Having completed our tour of the street car system, we returned to the hotel. 

Tonight, we left for the Red Snapper Gril. On the way, we stopped in at The Old Absinthe, a former forge, is reputed to be the oldest bar in N. O.  We met a couple from Oklahoma, who informed us that tonight was the bi - centennial of the defeat of the British by the French in N. O.  We had seen a fireworks display earlier in the evening and suspected so. 

Another, man joined us - he was from Ohio and was dressed in the French Infantry uniform of the period. He had driven from Ohio with a cannon and a number of uniforms. His wife had flown down to join him. He and his friends are re-creating battle scenes tomorrow - unfortunately we must depart early tomorrow.  

We were  to go to the Rooseveldt Hotel, the oldest hotel in NO  to sample the original sacerdote cocktail devised. For research you understand, dear reader,  I tasted the Planter's Punch cocktail at the Absinthe but on arrival at the Rooseveldt, though it was a beautiful hotel , neither of the bars had the ambience to attract one to sit and enjoy the cocktail. 

We adjourned to our hotel.    

Exploring the French Quarter and a visit to WW11 museum

This morning we breakfasted at the hotel and then took a walking tour of the French Quarter. 

As we left the hotel, we were wearing jackets / the temperature is akin to Dublin - 6 degrees. On the last occasion I visited here, it boasted a hot and humid September, with the temperature in the 30s and the humidity 100% I thought I'd never leave the place quickly enough as I was not used to humidity at that time. 

We commenced our exploration with a visit to the first convent, with its beautiful church, to be established in the city - the Ursuline convent, where girls and orphans were educated. President Jackson wrote them a letter of gratitude; their prayers having saved the city from the British! 

We continued along Royal Street (Calle Real) admiring the beautiful buildings with their wrought iron balconies ; festooned for Christmas.

We came across the precursor of the Irish pub but established earlier than its present exports.

It had a piano bar so we thought we might go there for a drink tonight. 

Further along Royal Street, we came across a band playing in the street - the first of many. 

 

We proceeded to the cathedral, reputed to be the fisrt in the US 

and after that repaired across the road to Cafe Du Monde where we partook of cafe au lait and beignets - a donut delicacy of French origin.  

There is a wonderful ambience here and it is delightful to stroll around in spite of the weather. The people are friendly and very laid back. 

We then set off - out of the French Quarter and into more modern New Orleans, which continued to exhibit fine architectural specimens inherited from their European masters - to the WW II museum. En route, we came to the Supreme Court and Court of Appeal - an pressure building 

Earlier, we saw the Distrct Court building 

The War Museum had a excellent exhibition of artifacts and an excellent chronological history of the war.

We took a Street Car back to the French Quarter and then walked down the famous Bourgon Street.

 

As we travelled along Bourbon Street, the famous street was preparing for the night ahead - the bars were getting into full swing and the restaurants were preparing for dinner

And other naughty signs which I will not assail your delicate constitution with, dear reader!!

We adjourned to the hotel and prepared to make an expedition in the sub zero temperatures ( the wind chill factor is lowering the temperature.) The wind, we were advised, was coming from the north, where temperatures are historically low, and not from the Mississippi. 

Later we set off and arrived at Pat O Brien's place to find it in full swing - an almost full house (though we did manage to find a table) and two excellent pianists playing requests for tourists as far away as Maine!! Being in the South,  I had to partake of a Mint Julep. It was really excellent - much nicer than my first taste of one in Prague!! 

 

We adjourned to the Oyster Bar on Bourbon St for dinner. The aim was to find a warm spot in the restaurant and it appeared to be everyone else's too! The waiters were even wearing outdoor jackets and the heat was on.  We shared a plate of excellent baked oysters followed by an oyster salad for me (ya I know I said it was cold) but it was excellent as my companion partook of crab cakes. The fish is so good and so plentiful here, we're spoilt. 

On our way home we took in an excellent Jazz session at a Bar where I foolishly ordered an indifferent Irish coffee; made without sugar and with squirts of cream from a can!! 

What did I expect you might say and you would be correct. We returned to the hotel.

To New Orleans

HWe departed Panama City Beaches aft the usual breakfast.  We drove along Beachfront Road in the mistaken belief that we would be hugging the shore - not so dear friends, we soon realised that the beaches were on average 14 miles from the road.  We weren't making much progress driving through town after town and as they all appeared to be the  same, we joined I - 10 and progressed towards the Alabama border.  

The borders are spectacular areas as each State is divided from the next by a very impressive bridge traversing a massive inlet. 

 

At each state line, we were to discover a Welcome Centre which provided travellers with maps and information about the state . All I had known about Alabama were words from a song I come from Alabama with a banjo on my knee... - for you dear readers old enough to remember!! 

On entering the Centre the following notice accosted our eyes - unusual by our standards but as we know the gun lobby is powerful  in the USA 

We continued towards Mississippi (I remember learning to spell it at school)?) again we crossed a spectacular bridge into the state  and again stopped at the Welcome Centre 

I don't recall being in either state before  but I possibly slept through as, as a student,  I traversed the US from

Pennsylvania to Niagra Falls across the Mid West to Vancouver, down the West  coast to Disneyland and San Francisco over to New Orleans; to Little Rock, Arkansas (does that little town ring any bells?) And thence to Wasington DC  and NYC - all in 21 days for $99 rambler Greyhound bus ticket!!! 

Onwards to Louisiana 

and as we crossed the bridge into the state, we were treated to a spectacular sunset.

The lady at the Welcome Centre had stayed in our hotel Le Richelieu and recommended it highly. It had been recommended to us by a neighbour and it had the advantage of being situated in the French Quarter while having secure car parking. We were given hotel directions at the Centre which was useful as the sat nav decided to lose satellite connection once we arrived in the French Quarter. A kindly passerby directed us - we were nearby but as it was dark, the street signs were difficult to see- luckily we spotted Chartres St. ; the hotel's location. 

We checked in. It is a beautiful, characterful hotel teeming with antique furniture and festooned for Christmas

 We hurriedly went to our room and quitted it within minutes as the procession in honour of Joan of Arc's birthday (January 6th) was about to commence and would pass a block from our hotel. 

It was a spectacular sight reminiscent of the Easter processions in Spain, with Joan of Arc siting astride a horse. 

The town was a buzz. It is as if all the hippies retired to here- though of a younger generation than the 1960s vintage. People are hanging about the streets drinking , dancing - all in good spirits. We adjourned to Coops 

recommended by the hotel and a former pastor, now turned carpenter whom we met while watching the procession.  Coops served traditional fare - I had Jumbaliah and my companion had a tasting plate of Creole food. Unusual for the States no dessert featured on the menu. I had remembered Jumbalaya 

as mentioned in a song and only now did I realise it was a dish. 

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Homemade_Jambalaya.JPG

It is a creole dish  akin to a Spanish Paella but French Provence has a similar dish so it appears an amalgam of the two traditions. It was delicious if a little spicier than the Spanish paella.  France controlled Louisiana, then the Spanish, then the French again until it was sold to the US so the influences of both European rulers influence their food, architecture and street signage. 

The streets were alive. It was a Mardi Gras  atmosphere. We retired - it had been a long day driving!

Hobe Sound and journey to Panama City Beaches

Saturday was to be a relaxing day so we took Maria to lunch - to the Sailor's Rest on the Marina. We had mains of fish and chips, chicken and fig with mozzarella and a turkey and bacon sandwich. It is very difficult to get reasonable portions here in this country but I did have the choice of fruit for my side.We decided against dessert but Maria thought she' d try the house special; an almond cake. I forgot to take a photo of it - it was an omission,  as the portion fed three of us and I wasn't feeling the better of my portion for hours!! 

We returned via the most expensive post  code in US - Tiger Woods, his estranged wife, who reputedly compromised the watertable by having a water park built on her property for the children,  lives near Woods so the children  can see their Daddy.  In addition to Celine Dion to name but a few, many celebrities have a vacation home here  ( note the Americanisms creeping in), We spent a quiet evening.

A trip to the shore colters the evening Tgere were people swimming and sunbathing.

On Sunday, John and I went to an upmarket Mall in Palm Beach only 11/2.hr drive We're Americanised already! We again did damage to the credit card. That evening, with Maria driving, we weren't far from the apartment (condo) when she noticed a light on the dash and knew it was a flat We pulled in and immediately a young man ce to our aid and was able to pump the tyre up to get us home. 

We took our car and drove 11/2 hours to Pietros on the ocean- (note another Americanism) However, by the time we arrived it was dark so we could only enjoy the full moon creating a fan of light on the Atlantic. Dinner was delicious - food of great quality. My companions had duck and pork chops and I enjoyed delicious scallops all washed down with an excellent Californian Sauvignon Blanc. Even though portions were more manageable here, we eschewed desert. 

On our return Maria was anxious to see the new season of Downton Abbey. However, I soon realised they are a season or two behind us so I left her to look at it. Much to my amazement, after the show finished, there was a full hour programme explaining Edwardian lifestyle, including its table manners, behaviour and deportment. It was fascinating . Obviously the programme makers are of the opinion that the Europeans don't need such explanations!! The programme employs an expert on the Edwardian period to advise and to think the Edwardians  performed all effortlessly.

Today,  Monday we depart for New Orleans - as we would not drive the 10/11 hr journey in one day, we decided to stop off at Pana City Beach. However,  Garmin (sat nav) took us off  the 1-10 too early and we saw less affluent iFlorida as we drove through town after town. Eventually we reached Panama City. We had been advised that it had a population of 35,000 and nearby beaches. Traffic through the city was woeful and the beach,14 miles away, stretched for miles. At this stage I thought I'd never find a motel. Eventually we found Sleep In - quite acceptable. We  had a brief respite and took a taxi to a local surf and sea restaurant where much to our surprise portions were appropriate and food excellent, healthy and enjoyable. After a pit stop at Mc Donald's  at lunchtime, I thought I might not eat again til I left the US such was the oily nature of the food . Mc Donald's In Ireland is of superior quality with the exception of the coffee,which is excellent here.

Weather rainy on arrival for first four days but warm and wet but pleasant, then warm and dry. On arrival in Panama City Beach at 19.00 this eve - temp 6* - had to abandon shorts  and tee - shirts for woollies.

Tomorrow,we depart for New Orleans pronounced New Orlens with the emphasis on the O by the natives!

Hobe Sound

We arrived at Maria's door without a hitch The Garmin is amazing Howdid we ever navigate without it?

We lunched and talked and then decided to take a nap, Maria promising to make us a special cocktail to ring in the New Year. Unfortunately, we never awoke and slept through the arrival of 2015 - a first for me.

New Year's Day commenced with a lunch in our honour. Maria is a member of a French group and an Archaeological Association (she has her doctorate in Archaeology) . Members of both groups, in addition to some other friends, graced her table. The guests were interesting, one couple having just returned from an archaeological tour of the Burren. Most had travelled widely though one guest  had only visited three states in her life and had no desire to visit more!! 

Yesterday we devised to go shopping We drove about 200 miles in all The petrol is only  $2.25 a gallon, less than a quarter of the Irish price. We filled the tank for $25!!

The outlets were jammed with shoppers. It was almost impossible to find a parking spot and people were not helpful as they would never indicate to you that they were leaving. On the contrary when I indicated to a lady that we were departing she wished me a  happy New Year and thanked me profusely. It's obviously every man for himself here .

We did a little damage to the credit card and made for Hobe Sound. En route the Garmin switched off, much to my horror but mercifully, it reloaded before we got lost!! 

We dined with Maria on crab claws and huge shrimps - the fish here in Florida is wonderful. This dining experience was in sharp contrast to lunch - in the outlets, malls and motorway service areas, the food choice is dismal - large portions of Sbarro pizza or Dunkin Doughnuts or if you are lucky a Subway. The old American cuisine has been replaced by all this junk. It is almost impossible now to find the American restaurant where for breakfast one  has the luxury of real crockery and cutlery as in the 1970s when I first visited the USA- not paper and plastic so prevalent today.

Florida

Arrived in Orlando Monday 29th 

We had quite an eventful departure as our flight was delayed 40 minutes and as we had to change terminals,we were unlikely to make it if the BA flight to Orlando wasn't held for us. As it turned out they did hold the flight for two delayed flights - Glasgow and Dublin. 

On arrival in Orlando airport, we were allowed to use the automatic passport control. I got it to work but got no receipt but it wouldn't take my companion's fingerprints!!  However even if  it did, one had to join a line to see an emigration official!! 

When we were called, he advised me that I was not on the System!! I replied that the automatic passport control did not work and he agreed and replied that it was not my fault. He found me phh!! He was unusually friendly for an immigration official. 

We then joined a long line to clear customs. When we met that official, he said that we had only one customs declaration We thought that was all we needed but it appeared that because I was lost in the system I had a different form to John who was in the system. He perused  all our passport visas, looking up from time to time, but made no comment. I was hoping there was no visa the US disapproved of!! However, he sent us back to the immigration official, who informed us that the receipt that the passport machine produced was the other custom's form!! The bureaucracy!!  As we had been told not to queue again but come back directly, I realised that with the length of the line, we were unlikely to get next or near the aforesaid official, Espying an officer, I explained my predicament She looked at both forms and told us that we were free to leave customs without a return visit to the original official - I've never experienced such a debacle. They need to put up clear signage as to the required procedures. 

It was the same confusion as we tried tofind  the hotel shuttle bus - no clear signage and no - one to advise. We have travelled widely - my sympathies with the novice traveller. 

On arrival at the hotel, we heard that a Virgin plane bound for Las Vegas had had to return to Gatwick because of technical problems with its landing gear As they had not long departed Gatwick they had to dump fuel and were shaking the plane to get the landing gear to drop, which thankfully it did and as the airport has only one runway, the airport was closed for four hours. We were lucky we had departed. What with the Air Asia crash, one feels a little tentative flying at present, although we had an uneventful flight with the captain advising us to proceed quickly to Immigration as a Virgim flight was due to land just after us and it would make for a busy Immigration area,

Staying at airport hotel,  as the car was not due for collection until tomorrow, we ate at a nearby restaurant - very typical, shack type with a heavy emphasis on deep fried food but on the positive side, the menu boasted plenty of fish. We had an In-house brewed beer together with deep fried shrimp  for me ( starter portion more than adequate ) and a steak for my companion. 

Tired, as it was 2100 local and plus 5 hours Irish time, we slept but awoke at 0300 and slept fitfully thereafter. 

Breakfast was the usual fare, though I suspect the omelette was made from powdered eggs, juice, cereal, Turkey  sausage, hamburger, pancakes, an extremely sweet cinamon cake and biscuits!! Now a biscuit is not a biscuit as Europeans know it but a scone! It is amazing that although we speak the same language many words vary - line / queue, sidewalk / footpath, biscuit / scone etc not to speak of the different pronunciation of words 

We collected the car and set out for an outlet. On arrival it was mayhem as it appeared every Floridian ?? was shopping!! We spent 40 minutes looking for a parking space and finally got one having parked in a bay and waited for someone to return. 

Tommy Hilfiger and Polo had enormous queues- lines!! I did a little damage at the alternative  Polo - US Polo Association. Logo somewhat like Polo, quality as good, less expensive and no queue!! Hadn't come across them before on previous visits

We proceeded to a shopping mall It was huge - with a Macy's - not of NYC size but large. Again the number of shoppers was enormous. One purchase here a Michael Kors handbag - on discount with a further 10% off for foreigners.!! 

We returned to hotel, parked the car and made a return visit to the Fish on Fire restaurant; iwalking - it was either that Mc Donald's or 7 Eleven unless one drove.! They appear to Drink and Drive here. I decided to eat local so I had barbecued pulled pork with black beans and coleslaw  as accompaniments. It was delicious - a welcome relief from the deep fat fryer.

 I am not a fan of fried food of any description as I was reared without a frying pan. My late mother would not allow one in the house as her health food guru Lelord Cordell advocated same. He was a precursor of the Atkins diet as he advocated a high protein diet with steak for breakfast. I remember as a child copious leaflets from self same guru coming through the letterbox. 

Today, we will depart the Holiday Inn for Hobe Sound where Maria, my companion's cousin, has her winter condo -apartment to you and I. I love the Americans with their summer homes in the North, out of Florida's tropical heat while  wintering in the pleasant Florida sunshine. . However, in the advent of the Celtic tiger, we Irish aspired to the self same lifestyle, which has unfortunately been sorely punctured by the demise of same.