Arles and Le Camargue

This morning, we set off for the Camargue - the  delta region between Arles and the Mediterranean, with its wetland area sporting distinctive flora and fauna. 

The big three to see are the Black Bulls, the white horses and pride of place the flamingos.

The area teems  with bird life - an ornithologist's dream. 

The area is vast and its chief town at the most southern end is Les Stes Maries- de - la - Mer. It is your typical tourist town reminiscent of Irish sea - side towns, we of a certain vintage holidayed in, in our youth - before we all headed abroad on holidays in search of the sun.

The Park Naturel Regional de Camargue  was reasonably busy as it attracts people on activity holidays - walking, hiking and cycling are extremely popular and many areas can only be reached on foot or by bike! 

The lagoon was quite choppy, though it is some miles from the Mediterranean and there was a bracing breeze to fill the lungs. We had a pleasant walk along the promenade.  

We returned to Arles by another route, which necessitated a 5 minute ferry crossing and once again negotiated the narrow streets of the historic city enroute   back the hotel. One needed a code to access the street as it is 'pedestrian only' except for access to the hotels. 

This afternoon, we devoted to sightseeing in Arles. It is a small town with a population of 55,000, but a very important centre of Provençal culture. Van Gogh priduced many of his greatest painting here, because of the brilliance of the light. We visited the Van Gogh foundation 

but was disappointed to discover that the gallery had only one of Van Gogh's paintings: 

An exhibition of 31 of his works here is imminent!! The foundation was promoting the works of 20th century painter, the Italian Georgia Griffi. 

This visit was followed by visits to the  amphitheatre 

constructed in the the first century AD, it became a fortress in the Middle Ages and later it was almost destroyed as town of 200 dwellings was built from the stone of the amphitheatre. Restoration began in 1825 and is ongoing!!

The Roman theatre 

built by Augustus 27-25 BC suffered a similar fate  and by 5AD , it's stone was being used to build churches before it disappeared beneath houses and gardens. Excavation  also commenced in the 19th century. 

We continued to Place de la Republique 

which Place is dominated by a spectacular Hotel de Ville 

for such a small city and l' Eglise St - Trophime built in the 11th century, had an intricately carved portal 

With a vast, cool, stone interior, a welcome relief from the warm, Provençal sunshine in the Place outside. 

We returned to the hotel and en route purchased some savon ( soap) , particular to Provenance, smelling of roses, lavender, strawberry and mojhito among others!!  

 

Montelimar - Arles

What a day!! But to digress - last night, we booked into Logis Le Printemps in Montelimar - famous for its nougat!! 

The hotel had 2 lamps - 3 is best but not available in this town. It was passable for a night's stay. We walked to the nearby town centre  through the town gate - the only surviving of the original four. We found a fish restaurant in the old town. The waiter was originally gruff but on discovering that we were Irish, he couldn't do enough for us! An excellent meal especially the seafood chowder, which tasted of the sea even though we are many miles from the sea, in the Rhone  valley!! 

This morning, after an excellent breakfast, served in a most friendly manner, we quitted the hotel and purchase the noughat, for which the town has a reputation. 

We  continued to the Rhone valley south. This is a larger and less exclusive area than Cote du Rhone north , we visited yesterday. 

The signage left a lot  to be desired and we spent an hour or so traversing the area in the vain attempt to visit Gigondas. Eventually, we arrived at Chateau Neuf du Pape which, if your church history is up to scratch, you are aware that at the beginning of the 14th,  Pope Clement V migrated to Avignon to escape political turmoil in Rome and Avignon became the capital of Christendom for almost a century. Pope  Clement certainly knew how to choose a location for his chateau, a site overlooking the town of Chateauneuf du Pape on one side and the stately River Rhone on the other. Today the town is very touristy in comparison to all other towns we had visited on the Route du Vin.  

 

 

We purchased some Chateauneuf at a Domain outside the town and had to drive due north again to the towns of Gigondas, Vaqueras and Beaume de Venice, where we sampled and purchased accordingly.  

 

 

It was now time to head for Arles - tonight's destination. We quitted the area more expeditiously than we entered it and soon arrived in Arles. We had difficulty driving to the hotel as we came across a pedestrian barrier! An elderly lady with no English and my poor French,  eventually sorted the problem. We arrived at the hotel in the spectacular old part of Arles. The hotel is excellent and in tune with the ambience of the area so we have checked in for a further night. 

The hotel receptionist recommended three restaurants  - One was closed tonight - it appears they had a feria here at the weekend , with a bullfight and the place was thronged, yet tonight both of the other restaurants were full and we had  to wait a half an hour to be seated!

In the interim, we adjourned to a local hostelry, who took us to their hearts when they discovered we were Irish. I had to disabuse them of their belief that we got the wooden spoon in the Five Nations this year!   

 

We repaired to the restaurant, where we enjoyed an excellent meal... Tomorrow a tour of the Camargue. 

 

Lyon - Northern Rhone Valley to Montelimar

Last night we ate at the funky restaurant we saw yesterday evening.- Epicerie. Although the manager had told CC there was no need to book, a queue had formed - we were nos. 8&9.. The weather wasn't as pleasant as the previous night, so most people wished to eat inside. However, some lost patience with the queue and sat outside to eat , wrapped up in their coats snd scarves. 

After 20 minutes or so we were seated at a long table occupied by 5 other couples!! The house speciality was Tartines- a slice of bread with hot or cold toppings of limited choice. Tasty but not exceptional! CC had a French Burger ie a burger between two slices of bread. I had seen it advertised elsewhere now I know!!  We had ordered the house special oysters and a glass of wine but they never materialised!! The pace was frenetic! Observing  the French diners (we appeared to be the only foreigners and our neighbours were very solicitous of our needs) and the funkiness of the ambience made for a pleasant evening. 

It was raining again this morning, but it didn't intrude as we were leaving Lyon for the Northern Rhone Valley.  My impression of Lyon was of a city that needed some TLC. It has fabulous buildings but they are poorly maintained and whilst the Pl. Terreaux appeared beautiful in the fading light of Saturday evening last, on a dull Sunday afternoon it had all the appearance of faded grandeur.  I had great expectations for Lyon, only to be disappointed and with no great expectations for Vichy, I was most impressed. 

As we travelled down the valley the weather improved as the rain stopped and the temperature rose to a pleasant 17•. As it was Bank holiday Monday, many of the chateaux were closed. The French don't upset their holidays in the name of commerce!! We did find one chateau and two caves  open and that did enough damage to the bank balance. 

The Northern Rhone area has the finest wines, more highly respected than their Southern sister wines - which we will check out tomorrow. Our first stop was in the town of Ampuis, here is the home of Cote Roti ( roasted slope) and the vines can be seen growing on the very steep slopes, supported by low walls.  

We continued to Condrieu, home of Condrieu Blanc and thence to the first open chateau we saw and made some purchases. 

We passed village after village, hugging the mighty and stormy Rhone as we went. The scenery was spectacular - the Rhone as a backdrop to acres of vines. 

We crossed the Rhone 

to Tain - l' Hermitage and it's more affordable sister Crozes Hermitage. 

We drove up to the hills, passing chateau after chateau until we arrived at Tain - l' Hermitage. The descent into the town was panoramic as we swapped the dizzying heights of the slopes to the town below. 

We departed Tain L'Hermitage and the Northern Rhone for Montelimar - gateway to the Southern Rhone... Tomorrow's Adventure!  

Lyon

This morning we woke to find that unfortunately, the weather forecast was correct and it was raining heavily. We also realised that we had lost another hour- it appears Lyon is 2 hours ahead of Ireland.!!

Fortunately, by the time we were ready to commence sightseeing , the rain had abated and we set out for Vieux Lyon, on the other side of the River Saone. 

We travelled on the funicular up to Fourviere. We travelled singularly as the tram left while CC was photographing it!!  

At the summit was Notre Dame de Fourviere, a spectacular church on a spectacular site.

  

We walked down the hill into Quartier St Jean with its cobble streets, 

and tranoules - passages which led to courtyards, situated perpendicular to the streets.

  

In addition to its Roman origins, the city has Renaissance buildings Musee Gasagne occupies the largest site;  the best  illustrated in the building below.

  

The area was teeming with people and restaurants to entice every palet. We lunches at the 19th century Salon de The. 

And of course an the Irish pub has woven its way into French  life - note its first cocktail!

Charles VIII developed this area as a trading centre in the 15th century. Later, Louis XII introduced silk weaving. Long distance trading developed, inns and hostels were improved and clearing houses, the forerunners of banks, were established. Printing  came to the Saone in 1485 and the area thrived and progress continues to this day.  

Our final call was to the Cathedral St Jean, which was very austere in comparison to our  earlier visit to Notre Dame de Fourviere. 

It was now mid afternoon and we went our seperate ways - CC to Centre d'Histoire et de la Resistance de la Deportation, but as all the display was in French only, it disappointed. It is noticeable that there is little accommodation of the English speaking tourist at tourist sites. Nevertheless one must dust off the school French to survive here in rural France.  

I adjourned to the Musee des Beaux Arts,    which is acknowledged as one of the finest French museums with 35 Impressionist  masters on display in addition to numerous Rodin sculptures 

        The Tempation of St Anthony

Before 1900 acquired from the artist for the museum 1903 

                         Le Penseur 

                          La Baise  

but was disappointed to discover that  the Picassos were on tour in Mexico! 

I returned to the hotel. Tonight we dine at last night's discovery......

Lyon

We traversed the Auvergne as we drove towards the Rhone Valley and Lyon THe landscape was composed of very fertile, verdant pastures, pockets of rich arable land interlaced with forestry. As we drove the national route N 7, we passed through village after village - all well formed as if sculpted into the landscape. As is their wont every village had a patisserie and boulangerie. 

We stopped at a picnic area to lunch on petit quiches purchased at the B&P in the prior village and continued to drive the steep and torturous decent into the Rhone Valley. The road had been surprisingly quiet until we joined the motorway near Lyon, the second city after Paris or third after Marseilles, depending on the tourist information literature one reads. My friend Lady Sat Nav steered us directly to Hotel Victoria, chosen for its proximity to the city sights and its parking facilities rather than its comfort. It has the smallest ensuite I have ever encountered - one has to stand on the shower tray to enter it! 

Parking was another matter. The hotel had parking facilities at the railway station but it necessitated a number of attempts to find the correct spot!!! 

It was1600 hrs, when we left the hotel. It was a glorious evening with a temperature of 19• and we had to walk under the railway bridge, along the tram lines to enter Place Carnot.

 

In my opinion the city has been destroyed by roadways and tunnels, which traverse the city. The traffic was manic with young people hanging out of cars, shouting and  from whence  loud music played - not very French!! 

We entered La Presqquile, the 'modern'area of Lyon, sited on a long alluvial penninsula, washed down by the mighty Rhone. It was developed by Henry IV  and Louis XIi in the 18 and 19th centuries. We walked down Rue Victor Hugo crowded with Saturday shoppers. The street sported the usual international shops. We arrived at Pl Bellecour, 

reputed to be the largest pedestrian square in Europe, though cars did traverse its perimeter! Iits size was breathtaking, the square thronging with people all enjoying the evening sunshine and the street entertainers.  It reminded me of the main square in Marrakesh , Morocco, but for the absence of restaurants and snakes!! 

We turned onto the Rhone Quays 

to admire the Hotel Dieu (1740), facing the Rhone, which according to my guide book, marks a significant stage in the evolution of French architecture. Alas it was partially covered for restoration. 

We adjourned to nearby street Rue Marronniers suggested to us by the Vichy gentleman, a street of restaurants sporting typically French. 

We booked a table for 1930hrs at La...... 

We continued to Rue Monnaie , sat for a drink outside on its cobble-stoned road and further along we espied a funky brassiere 

(tomorrow night's dinner venue) and on to Rue Merciere, pedestrianised, but once one of the main arteries of Lyon -  its name suggests 'merchants' and it and the surroundings arches sported numerous small shops now selling to a niche market. 

We continued up Rue de la Republique 

until we arrived at Pl. Terreaux, an area designated  as a world heritage site and the Square itself a Monument Historique. In the late evening sunshine, it was resplendent in its grandeur., teeming with the citizens of Lyon, enjoying a Saturday night out. 

On one side of the Pl was the Musee des Beaux Artes, 

on another the Opera House, 

which has kept only its facade and has been totally modernised inside.  Opposite the Opera House on the other side of the  Pl is the spectacular Hotel de Ville. 

By the Musee is Palais St Pierre, a 17 and 18th century building, one of the oldest Benedictine Abbeys in Lyon, whose nuns were recruited from among the highest ranks of French aristocracy. 

The total sightseeing area is c 3 km as the crow flies between Place Carnot and Pl Terreaux, but you will be enticed  down little streets, under archways and into alleyways to see the vestiges of the older parts of the 'modern city' situated between the mighty Rhone and Saone, which confluence is here at Lyon. 

We quitted Pl Terreaux and set out once again for Rue Marronierre, where we were to dine. The street was now busy and many people were sitting outside in the warm evening, though I suspect that it may ace been to facilitate smoking. Smoking here in France is more prevalent than in Ireland. 

The cost of eating out here is amazingly inexpensive. Lunchtime and evening offer two, three and four course set menues for €18  - €30. CC commenced with a set menu for €20 which included a salad large enough to be a main course containing prawns and smoked  salmon, followed a very tender entrecôte and an apple crumble completed an excellent meal. My monstrous pot of Mussels with Roquefort  cheese was sufficient.  The French must be shocked by Irish meal prices! 

We decided to follow the Rhone back to the hotel but for reasons that still can't be explained, (and lest you, ungrateful reader,jump to erroneous conclusions, it wasn't ...,....,)  we found ourselves on the other side of the river and only for CC observing the lights of the famous  Brassiere George, adjacent to the hotel, on the other bank , we might have been wandering the streets of Lyon all night.