Lyon - Northern Rhone Valley to Montelimar

Last night we ate at the funky restaurant we saw yesterday evening.- Epicerie. Although the manager had told CC there was no need to book, a queue had formed - we were nos. 8&9.. The weather wasn't as pleasant as the previous night, so most people wished to eat inside. However, some lost patience with the queue and sat outside to eat , wrapped up in their coats snd scarves. 

After 20 minutes or so we were seated at a long table occupied by 5 other couples!! The house speciality was Tartines- a slice of bread with hot or cold toppings of limited choice. Tasty but not exceptional! CC had a French Burger ie a burger between two slices of bread. I had seen it advertised elsewhere now I know!!  We had ordered the house special oysters and a glass of wine but they never materialised!! The pace was frenetic! Observing  the French diners (we appeared to be the only foreigners and our neighbours were very solicitous of our needs) and the funkiness of the ambience made for a pleasant evening. 

It was raining again this morning, but it didn't intrude as we were leaving Lyon for the Northern Rhone Valley.  My impression of Lyon was of a city that needed some TLC. It has fabulous buildings but they are poorly maintained and whilst the Pl. Terreaux appeared beautiful in the fading light of Saturday evening last, on a dull Sunday afternoon it had all the appearance of faded grandeur.  I had great expectations for Lyon, only to be disappointed and with no great expectations for Vichy, I was most impressed. 

As we travelled down the valley the weather improved as the rain stopped and the temperature rose to a pleasant 17•. As it was Bank holiday Monday, many of the chateaux were closed. The French don't upset their holidays in the name of commerce!! We did find one chateau and two caves  open and that did enough damage to the bank balance. 

The Northern Rhone area has the finest wines, more highly respected than their Southern sister wines - which we will check out tomorrow. Our first stop was in the town of Ampuis, here is the home of Cote Roti ( roasted slope) and the vines can be seen growing on the very steep slopes, supported by low walls.  

We continued to Condrieu, home of Condrieu Blanc and thence to the first open chateau we saw and made some purchases. 

We passed village after village, hugging the mighty and stormy Rhone as we went. The scenery was spectacular - the Rhone as a backdrop to acres of vines. 

We crossed the Rhone 

to Tain - l' Hermitage and it's more affordable sister Crozes Hermitage. 

We drove up to the hills, passing chateau after chateau until we arrived at Tain - l' Hermitage. The descent into the town was panoramic as we swapped the dizzying heights of the slopes to the town below. 

We departed Tain L'Hermitage and the Northern Rhone for Montelimar - gateway to the Southern Rhone... Tomorrow's Adventure!