Later, we walked up the famous Parc des Sources, with its tree lined walkway covered by a wrought iron canopy on both sides of the park. Here housed one of three spas of Vichy. In the past, it attracted the crowned heads of Europe to take its waters. Later the town became infamous as the centre of the puppet government under Petain, set up by the occupying Germans forces during WW11 but there is no mention of that period now.! If you wish to read about that part of Vichy history, I highly recommend the article in Wikipedia, which ably describes the period. At the end of the walkway, a little to our right at 4 Rue de Casino, was the Brasserie de Casino - again evoking the Belle Epoque with tables covered in crisp linen and crowned with sparking glasses and silverware. The very professional staff were bedecked in black with long white aprons.
Menues were presented. We chose a tasting menu at €32 per head - (there were less expensive menus) I thought that as it contained 4 courses the portions would be small - not so. I was glad that I had eaten little all day!! First course - pour moi a warm egg and asparagus pate, pour lui what he described as a French onion soup without onions but the colour of same with mushrooms and an unidentifiable onion shaped vegetable. For CC's second course was duck and for me fish - I think Skate, then a generous cheese plate for which the restaurant is famous, followed by two very large desserts of chocolate cake, ganache and cream all accompanied by a bottle of very acceptable vin du Maison. A short walk back to our hotel completed the long day.
This morning we left the hotel early to see Vichy by day. It is an extraordinarily beautiful city though our Michelin Guide only devoted a page to its delights- did the writer ever visit it?? In my opinion Vichy is definitely worth a weekend visit. I would equate it with Valetta (see Malta blog) and Verona, Italy (see Orient Express blog) as cities that really impressed me and cities one does not often hear of as destination attractions in their own right.
We strolled up Parc des Sources as we did last night. It looked even better by day.
The only evidence of the regime was a plague to Jews rounded up by the Vichy government for the concentration camps.
This was revealed to us by a local gentleman whom we met when he saw us poring over a map. He was at pains to tell us that the citizens of Vichy were unaware of what was going on!!!!
On we went to the end of the Park, where stood what was originally a casino now a cultural centre promoting ballet and opera.
From there to Rue Belgigue with its beautiful houses
and thence to Parc Napoleon 111, a gorgeous setting overlooking the Allier River, a tributary of the Loire, on which the town of Vichy is built.
Our next destination was the old Vichy quarter built on Celestin's Rock where the population of Vichy dwelt in the Middle Ages. A church built in the Art Deco Style 1925-1937 and dedicated to St Blaise, which austere exterior
belied a sumptuous interior.
You of a certain vintage can correct me if I am misinformed but was he not the saint your mother brought you to church to have your throat blessed with warm candles to prevent sore throats. It certainly worked with me- I didn't know what one was until I reached adulthood.
On our return, we were lured into a chocolateria by the enticing window display of Easter eggs
and thence to the Parc des Sources, where we imbibed the thermal water - think Alkaselser ! Think Lisdoonvarna, Co Clare. Ireland.
We returned to the hotel, checked out and commenced our 2 hour journey to Lyon or as my Sat Nav. Guide pronounced it - Lions!!
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