Tuesday 8 September 2015

Pretoria - Waterkloof

It's Day 3

We awoke very refreshed after a good night's sleep. 

Dinner at the hotel last night was indifferent. We had a main course choice of chicken or chicken - roasted or schnitzelled!! We opted for the roast chicken served with veg and coleslaw - it wouldn't excite your taste buds but washed down with a decent SA wine, it was tolerable. I don't think that SA, in general, is known for its culinary excellence? I only recall two memorable meals on my previous trips to SA - dinner on the Blue Train (1987) where James, being too young at 2 yrs of age to have dinner in the dining room, on being presented with dinner, served on a silver salver, in cabin, said to the waiter 'take that plant out of my dinner' much to my embarrassment as I have ALWAYS garnished his dinner with parsley! The other meal worthy of note was a most enjoyable lunch at the Spier Winery, where we sat outside the pavilion while James watched with fascination the washing of the vats- an excellent recommendation by a tourist information official in Capetown. When we returned to the winery in 2002, after apartheid had collapsed, it was unrecognisable - it was huge - a Walter Disney of wine. We could not locate our original luncheon venue, so transformed had it become and not for the better, in my opinion at any rate. 

Now I know what you're thinking!! Don't jump to any conclusions before you read the following: the reason we went to SA on 1987 was  to visit friends working in Lesotho (Lesotho , as you all know is landlocked by SA) We arrived in J'burg, met our friends. They put us on the Blue Train to Capetown, we then drove the Garden Route (spectacular) on to Port Elizabeth and flew across the homelands  
to Durban, where we met up with our friends again and drove to Lesotho - a very interesting country). 

In 1987, Dunnes Stores workers were on strike because they would not sell South African fruit. Correspondence  from SA embassy had to be sent in an unmarked envelope. A number of years later in a staff room, a young HDip student was pontificating on the ills of SA. I asked him if he'd ever visited the country and he replied in the negative. I recounted to him the following incident. 

We had been travelling along the Garden Route. Early one morning, we drove through a small town. We were searching out a coffee shop and finally saw people entering what we thought was a coffee shop. We sat down and ordered. When  the people around us heard the accent, they inquired as to our origin. They were delighted to meet us and were aware of anti SA sentiment in Ireland. They explained to us that they were concerned  as they were aware that apartheid was about to collapse and most had no passport other than an SA one if circumstances forced them out of the country. They said they were middle class people, who did not own a mansion with a pool and a fleet of servants !! They asked us to inform our friends in Ireland of this fact.They said that they did the best for their staff and paid for their education.  I believed them. The Irish media had a very ............( I won't  add the tasteless metaphor b/w ) view of the apartheid situation. Prior to my visit, I had assumed that black people did not hold positions of influence - that proved to be incorrect.  Not an apologist for the Apartheid regime but I believe in balanced reporting. As we were departing the 'coffee shop', we asked for the bill - they laughed no charge - and explained that it was an after church service cuppa -  Were we embarrassed ??

This morning the sun is shining as I sit on on the terrace, under a clear blue sky, looking down over central Pretoria.  The hotel is situated in Waterkloof, a safe area as it's dotted with embassies - the Irish Embassy is just down the road. Pretoria is the administrative capital. Gaye so far so good!! Our hotel manager is reluctant to allow us to explore alone. I suspect she is correct - the manager is to drive us to a safe shopping mall in Brooklyn (yes we're still in SA - we haven't jetted off to NYC ). I think this time, we will take a guide - much as I hate to be taken about - much more fun exploring one's self. 

Our car is ready to take us to the Mall.
As we leave the terrace and enter the dining room, we are greeted by two ladies sitting at a table, working on computers.  I suspect this is the Lithuanian Ambassador and her official. Last night, our hotel manager informed us that the Ambassador had  been staying with them for the last two months as the Lithuanians are about to open an embassy here and she is searching for a suitable property in the area. In the area too is the President's luxurious summer home which has caused a lot of controversy here. Does anything change in African controlled countries ? 
 
I am in the Brooklyn Mall at present having lunch. It is very upmarket though their couture would not 'pass muster' in Europe!  It gives us a flavour of the well to do SAs. Yesterday, outside station, we saw the otherside. 

CC wanted to purchase an Italian jacket in one of the upmarket shops. The price was very reasonable but when we got to the counter, they had neither a suit carrier or a bag sufficiently large to accommodate the jacket The sales assistant tried the shop next door to no avail. We had to abort the sale - we couldn't go about with a jacket over arm!! 
The hotel manager, who picked us up informed us that most SA s could not afford to shop there!! 

Tonight, an Italian restaurant, recommended by the hotel, is our last port of call for today. It is around the corner but the hotel will take us and collect us if we wish but it IS safe to walk back!! You MAY hear from me tomorrow!!


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