Eventually, we arrived at 0600 - only 14 hours late.....but Grif Rys Jones eat your heart out ... (Followers of Slow Train through Africa - BBC series)
We said goodbye to Won - CC thinks she is part of the Korean Secret Service, North or South, he wasn't sure? She may be but she has a Green Card and works in the U.S. She told us that she has travelled in Pakistan and Iraq and on this journey, she is researching the migration of southern Africans northwards! Maybe CC is correct?? We also said goodbye to the Japanese family. Earlier, they were going to book into our hotel but as the train was so late, they decided against it. They are to continue their journey to Lake Victoria, on a train reputedly worse than the Tasara. I cannot imagine it!! The journey is only to take a day but as we know that is not necessarily so.......He works for the Japanese Embassy in Lusaka. I don't know whether he was a diplomat or not - or maybe another spy!!!
Prior to our departure from Lusaka, We had booked online the Colleseum Hotel in Dar, expecting to arrive in Dar by midnight at the latest. We rang the hotel to advise that we might be very late.
The Tasara does not arrive at the main station. There were few taxis and those that were wanted a multiple of 500% which I refused to give them. Taxi men are the same the world over and as a consequence, I hate taking taxis! We went out to the main road and got a taxi. I'm not sure he was legit but he was pleasant and glad of the premium fare. Half way, he stopped and put petrol which he had in the boot, into the tank. I assume there's s problem with siphoning!
We arrived at the hotel at 0700 hours on Monday, instead of Sunday. A shower was glorious, having been deprived of adequate washing facilities for almost 3 days!! I know what you're thinking , dear reader, but you're wrong, we managed. I was grateful for the copious antiseptic hand sprays, wipes and tissues that I packed - a must on a journey such as this. CC thought that I was overdoing it - but he was very glad of them.
Our room overlooked Dar's main train station and appeared to included a train graveyard!
We checked with reception as to when the next fast ferry to Zanzibar departs. It was 12.30. As we hadn't tickets, we left by taxi for the ferry port at 1100- 4 hours after we had checked in but feeling great after a long, hot shower and breakfast.
We were dropped at the booking office. However, even though it had Kilamanjaro Ferries over the door and looked like the authentic bus booking offices, it was not. CC disappeared into the office for so long that I thought he had been kidnapped - later we realised the proprietor's disappearance can be explained by his departure for the Ferry company's booking office around the corner. We were overcharged - not much €10 but it's the principle. I hate being scammed! It's very difficult to avoid it here. They're all hustling and you just have to be firm with them, unsolicited guides, porters etc...... The fact that the taxi was called by the hotel put me off guard but of course , the taxi man got his cut in addition to a high fare!!
We boarded the ferry. It was very professionally run with a VIP, Business and Economy class. It departed and arrived on time into Stone Town's (capital of Zanzibar) harbour. The journey took 11/2 hours.
Even though it is the same country, we had to fill out forms for Immigration. They take this very seriously. We were advised that we would have to produce evidence of having been vaccinated against Yellow Fever. Luckily, ours were still In date from a previous journey, but it wasn't asked for.
Out the gate and the inevitable onslaught from taxi men, porters, would be guides etc. We had decided to have lunch at The Mercury named after Freddy Mercury of Queen fame, who was born in Stone Town. The view over the harbour was idyllic but the food was mediocre.
Before entering the restaurant, I had been approached by a Taxi man and when I said later, he remained outside the restaurant for the hour or so, while we lunched. I hadn't the heart to refuse him so after some bargaining, he agreed to drive us the 54 km to our hotel, which we had booked online earlier this am, based on Trip Advisor's recommendation.
As we drove first around Stone Town and then westwards and southwards towards Bwejuu - Paje, I was struck by the unfinished nature of the buildings Some fine old colonial buildings in a state of disrepair. It appeared to be an impoverished area but everyone was well fed and healthy looking. The towns reminded noof the village in Ryan's Daughter.
We came across a political rally. Hundreds of young people pouring out of busses , wearing shirts depicting the president, who is up for re-election next month. One young man jumped in front of the car, brandishing a stick. Our driver said he was drunk - that a lot of the crowd get drunk! I was amazed as the population, appears to be almost 100% Muslim - girls as young as six, wearing Muslim dress. I thought Muslims did not drink?
We eventually reached the hotel only to discover that they had overbooked. The receptionist said that he would bring us to another hotel nearby for tonight, I was not well pleased - previous experience had suggested caution. There was nothing for it but to take the offer. We were driven through the local village with its deeply pot - holed streets and unfinished houses only to enter the most idyllic place on earth- a small number of bungalows facing on to the sea; each with its own private part of the beach.
Upstairs was one huge bedroom , downstairs a lounge and outside a
magnificent stone bathroom., where one could shower under the stars.
We relaxed. We were very tired. An Zanzibar Margarita proved the perfect aperitif. We then dined on the freshest calamari followed by a local white fish and drank a grassy Sauvignon Blanc from Stellenbosch, South Africa with the meal. It was a stunning location for a meal. under the starry sky with a nice, warm sea breeze, and the Mosquitos kept at bay with a lathering of Deet spray Heaven!
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