Guangzhou

Last night we met at the appropriately named bar The Pilot. 

We had a drink there. We then repaired up the street to eat. The menu was western but our main aim was to find a restaurant with off street dining as the smog here is at a very high level, though today it was regarded as moderate.  

I think the air pollution is the only concern J has but it appears it is far worse in Bejing!!

We taxied back to the hotel. 

I slept quite well but with a 2 hour break and I awoke refreshed at 1100hours. 

We set off by Metro to Guandzhou South Station to collect our tickets for the train to Shanghai on the 2nd and Xian on the 5th. The Metro is priced depending on the Kms you travel We purchased a 24 hour ticket for 20 ¥ ( c. 7¥ =€1) or 50¥ for 72 hours. It simpler  to purchase one of the passes. 

We arrived at Guandzhou South. What a station !! I think it might be larger than Osaka, Japan, if not, it would definitely rival it! There were exits numbered A- L and each exit had numbered doors!

We decided to search out our tickets at Departures. It was the correct location and having waited in line for c.20 minutes, both sets of tickets were issued.   There was a small fee of ¥5 per ticket for the Xian tickets as we were not collecting  them at the departure station. I would advise to get tickets issued previously, the day before, if possible, and check location of the 'waiting area' as one wouldn't want to be arriving too close to departure time without having 'sussed the joint'. We asked where the departing platform was? The operator didn't understand and called another with better English. Initially, she did not understand. I was going to leave it and check at the hotel but she was anxious that I understood and finally I did. One goes to a 'waiting area'and then to the platform which number is written on the ticket and when the glass doors open, one boards the train. I have to say that the Chinese make every effort to answer any query one might have. 

We pre booked our tickets in Ireland through Iris Wang Travel Advisor- email iris@chinahighlights.me. On payment, she issued a confirmation, excellent instructions and the collection was faultless. One has to give one's passport number to book and bring one's passport to collect. Tabs are kept on your whereabouts!!

We retraced our steps by metro but when we arrived back at Tiy Xiu such was the crowd that we were not allowed to exit Exit E. We exited D but could we find E on the street- not a hope.? We could not re-enter the station either, there were so many people in the system that entrances were not to re-open again until 21.00 hrs - it was now 1830! A walk of 10 minutes became an hour as we tried to locate the hotel - and of course not a taxi to be found! 

We were advised not to go to Canton Tower as it will be very crowded but worse still - it would be impossible to get a taxi between 20.00 and 04.00hours so we're going to the Terrace Bar here in the hotel to ring in the New Year and hopefully see the fireworks display? Though staff speak some English, it is quite basic.  

We went out to get some Chinese food. We found a Chinese / Mongolian restaurant and had an excellent meal. We returned to the hotel to ring in the New Year. 

Today, I could taste the coal as I breathed!! So much for the Paris summit!!! 

Amsterdam

So how, you might well, ask was the Red Light District?? I will neither confirm nor deny that I was there....... You'll have to come and see for yourself ! 

We walked to a famous Brown pub. They are very small not unlike the Dawson lounge on said street in Dublin. It was Monday night but the street was buzzing as was Cafe Belgique. I was wondering if the Dutch partied every night but of course I remembered it was still Yuletide. 

We proceeded to Dam Square, where off the Square was restaurant no. 41 Ness Street. The Guardian had given it excellent reviews. It had a very simple ambience, no menu as the waitress recites the menu - a choice of 4 starters, 6 mains and 3 desserts. Prices recited as starters €4-6, mains €14-22 and dessert €4 if one wanted the precise cost of a dish one had to ask! The cuisine was excellent and a snip at the price! The meal commenced with a date and blue cheese melee and chicken pate, followed by an excellent beef fillet with a intense red wine reduction and a moist duck, a Dutch apple cake, loaded with cloves, completed an excellent meal.

As we retraced our steps towards Centraal Station and our hotel, we encountered another pub - the building was old - 1618 but the pub is of recent origin. This was explained to us by a local with whom I fell into conversation. We subsequently  discussed the Irish and Dutch economic collapse, the poor architectural standards in both countries and the disintegration of the inner city! And I mislead you, according to my friend the Amsterdam cyclists appear  to be as law breaking as their Irish counterparts!!!

Having finished our drink, we bid our friend good night. 

We retired

Amsterdam

                    ITINERARY

Dublin - Amsterdam - Guangzhou - Shanghai - Xian - Guangzhou - Amsterdam- The Hague- Dublin

I haven't been in the Netherlands for a while.......Flying over the Netherlands, one could appreciate the saying: God made the world but the Dutch made Holland! The symmetry of the polders was awe inspiring as were the wind turbines (similar to ours but) perfectly located to reflect as a piece of sculpture might. 

One can travel from the airport to any part of Netherlands by train. A16 minute train took us to Amsterdam Central 

(12km with trains running every 10 minutes) where on exiting the main door of the railway station our hotel, Hotel Victoria, on Prins Hendrikkade, lay before us - a couple of minutes walk across the canal. The area was alive with trams, cyclists and walkers. Bikes everywhere - proper bicycle lanes and cyclists observed the traffic signals, without exception in my brief survey!! 

As our room wasn't ready, a voucher for two drinks was immediately proffered. We repaired  to the Brasserie for lunch. 

We're sitting here at 1545 (we're an hour ahead), having flown from Dublin to Amsterdam, checked in for our flight to Guangzhou tomorrow lunchtime, taken the train to the Amsterdam Central, lunched and now settled on our room 

After a short respite, we left the hotel and walked down Damrak; the main shopping thoroughfare. 

It was alive with what appeared to be the population of Amsterdam bargain hunting at the sales, which are in full swing. We entered de Bijenkorf emporium. It was not dissimilar to BTs Dublin, no surprise as it is also owned by Galen Weston.

It is larger than the latter and had a wider range of goods, particularly of the more upmarket brands. After a stroll about, we engaged in some retail therapy but Ryan Air's baggage allowance curtailed excess!! Indeed on departure a bag weighing 16.3 kilos as opposed to the 15k allowance - I wonder does any authority check airline scales?- had to have something removed to accord with the allowance.  The old Ryan Air hasn't gone away you know!!' Ladies, I would recommend a weekend shopping trip to Amsterdam to lift the spirit! 

We're off to sample the infamous Red Light district - in the interests of blog research, you understand dear reader. More tomorrow........

 

Stone Town, Zanzibar

We arrived in Stone Town at 1100 hours. Our room wasn't ready, so we left our luggage and went for a stroll.

Our first port of call, forgive the pun, was to the port, to the Kilamanjaro Ferry Ticket office. We wanted to ensure that we could get the 0930 ferry tomorrow morning. The Idd al Haj Muslim festival commenced yesterday and continues over the weekend. Families get together for prayer and feasting and we were worried that the ferries and flights might be booked out. Much to our relief, tomorrow didn't pose a problem on the ferries, so we booked the 0930hrs to Dar- that should give us sufficient time to get to the airport. 

We are staying in the old town with its medinas akin to those of North Africa and Arabia with its bazaars and grand Arabian and Indian mansions. 

The city is located on a spectacular waterfront - the showpiece of the Sultan palaces. 

The promenade displayed wonderful, colourful flora 

The Old Dispensary on the waterfront - 

a charitable health centre in old British colonial style of India, built by Indian craftsman. 

Beside it the Palace Museum - once the residence of the last Sultan. The House of Wonders  with its clock tower is the city's most distinctive landmark built in 1883 as a palace. 

Finally the Old Fort and dates back to 

expulsion of the Portuguese in 1698. 

We left the waterfront and delved into the  medina.

Every shop calling us to inspect their wares. It was such a warren that we could not, for some time, find our way back to Hotel Zanzibar. 

On our way back, I heard Jambo (hello) It was the taxi man, who brought us to Bwejuu beach a few days ago!  Since we left Vic Falls, we haven't seen as many white people as we have here in Stone Town! There are many European tourists here. 

We ate lunch at a tapas bar located on the Post Office roof top - GPO, Dublin take note!  

We're going to African House, an old colonial club, for sunset drinks and on to 6 degrees  for dinner - for indeed WE ARE 6• south of the Equator!

I close this blog with views it the sunset over Stone Town harbour. 

 

            Usiki mwema ( good night ) 

END

ADDENDUM

My apologies for all the name dropping - just trying to document previous travels  when I hadn't the energy, with three children and CC in tow, to write a diary 

Bwejuu Beach, Zanzibar

Last night. We took a stroll on the beach at sunset. As this is a public beach,  a policy with which I agree, we were accosted by young tauts trying to drum up business for particular beach restaurants. In the past, much of the Zanzibarean coast was purchased cheaply by foreigners, who privatised many of the beaches.

We walked up as far as Indigo,where we stayed on the first night. Looking at the bungalows from the seaside, they appeared  incongruous; too modern as set against the African landscape. The interior however did reflect the location. 

On our return journey, we fell into conversation with a gentleman. He is a teacher in the local primary school comprising c. 700 pupils. Education is free in Zanzibar. He said he had recently been to Swansea (Wales), as his school is twinned with a school there. 

Dinner followed - a fish feast - although the teacher told us that the best catch is around Christmas - the high season - when the dhows can sail to the reef. Now however, as the sea is being whipped up by the winds, very welcome to us, it is too dangerous for the dhows to venture out to the reef. Dhows, he informed us are made from mango trees. They are not  dissimilar to curraghs. 

At this time of year, some fish are washed up on the shore and the women put down nets on the shallow waters and catch the fifth for the family.

The population of Zanzibar is two million at present and growing - the average family size is 7 - five children. 

This morning, I am here swinging on a hammock, looking out at the multiple shades of blue of the Indian Ocean. 

The Germans are here and have hogged the beach chairs early. Thankfully, there are plenty to go around! In Spain, many beaches are confiscating unattended beach accoutrements and the culprits must pay a fine or they will be sold for charity. In the article, I read surprise, surprise that the main culprits were German. It reminded me of a holiday in Kenya in 1983, when we endured such conduct and more at German hands.....

I hear the children from the local school at play. The children are in Muslim dress.  While Tasmania is Christian, 95% of Zanzibar is Muslim, though there is a growing Muslim population on the mainland!

We are leaving tomorrow for the capital, Stone Town - a brief glance at Stonetown as we journeyed to Bwejuu, didn't inspire! We must take the return ferry to Dar on Friday morning and then battle the horrendous traffic jams to arrive at the airport for our late evening flight.

Dusk fell and  after a relaxing day reading, we once again returned to our room to pack.  

What a surprise, they must think we're on honeymoon.!!!

Zanzibar- Paje / Bwejuu beaches

I awoke at dawn.

I observed the sun rising 

I went for a short walk on a beach of the whitest, finest sand I have ever walked on. 

Young boys are very deftly climbing the coconut trees to remove the dead leaves and ripe coconuts.

 

Staff were raking  the sand in front of each bungalow, removing the seaweed 

and all before most of the guests had surfaced!!

We breakfasted outdoors. 

The manager introduced herself. She is a Breton and manages the resort. It is really spectacular. I'd highly recommend it for a peaceful, relaxing holiday. She gave us her card. We returned to  the bungalow to pack. We are to be collected at 1100 hrs. 

So African, our transport arrived at 1130. Our bags were loaded by Maasai porters. They are very tall and slim but not as tall as their Kenyan brothers. The Maasai also work here in the Safari resort and are in Maasai dress with a sheathed sword by their sides. 

We arrived at the Safari resort and were met by the manager -  an Italian. All the hotel managers appear to be European. He apologised for the mix up, offered us complimentary dinner and when we asked if a washing service was available, he said that there was and for us it was also complimentary. 

This resort is very beautiful but hasn't the panache of the other. Though we have a sea view, the dining area deprives all rooms of a full sea view.

Its beach is a continuation of the latter resort but the attention to detail is not present here - seaweed is present on the beach. 

We have relaxed here this afternoon. I'm lying at present, as I complete today's contribution, on an outdoor day bed. I also have a choice of a swing, a hammock or a dip in the pool - 

                 Glorious!! 

Dar Es Salaam / Zanzibar

I awoke at 0300. We didn't appear to be in Dar.......

Eventually, we arrived at 0600 - only 14 hours late.....but Grif Rys Jones eat your heart out ...   (Followers of  Slow Train through Africa - BBC series)

  

We said goodbye to Won - CC thinks she is part of the Korean Secret Service, North or South, he wasn't sure? She may be but she has a Green Card and works in the U.S. She told us that she has travelled in Pakistan and Iraq and on this journey, she is researching the migration of southern Africans northwards!  Maybe  CC is correct?? We also said goodbye to the Japanese family. Earlier, they were going to book into our hotel but as the train was so late, they decided against it. They are to continue their journey to Lake Victoria, on a train reputedly worse than the Tasara. I cannot imagine it!! The journey is only to take a day but as we know that is not necessarily so.......He works for the Japanese Embassy in Lusaka. I don't  know whether he was a diplomat or not - or maybe another spy!!!

Prior to our departure from Lusaka, We had booked online the Colleseum Hotel in Dar, expecting to arrive in Dar by midnight at the latest. We rang  the hotel to advise that we might be very late.

The Tasara does not arrive at the main station. There were few taxis and those that were wanted a multiple of 500% which I refused to give them. Taxi men are the same the world over and as a consequence, I hate taking taxis! We went out to the main road and got a taxi. I'm not sure he was legit but he was pleasant  and glad of the premium fare. Half way, he stopped and put petrol which he had in the boot, into the tank. I assume there's s problem with siphoning! 

We arrived at the hotel at 0700 hours on Monday, instead of Sunday. A shower was glorious, having been deprived of adequate washing facilities for almost 3 days!! I know what you're thinking , dear reader, but you're wrong, we managed. I was grateful for the copious antiseptic hand sprays, wipes and tissues that I packed - a must on a journey such as this. CC thought that I was overdoing  it - but he was very glad of them.  

Our room overlooked Dar's main train station and appeared to included a train graveyard!

We checked with reception as to when the next fast ferry to Zanzibar departs. It was 12.30. As we hadn't tickets, we left by taxi for the ferry port at 1100- 4 hours after we had checked in but feeling great after a long, hot shower and breakfast. 

We were dropped at the booking office. However, even though it had Kilamanjaro Ferries over the door and looked like the authentic bus booking offices, it was not. CC  disappeared into the office for so long that I thought he had been kidnapped - later we realised the proprietor's  disappearance can be explained by his departure for the Ferry company's booking office around the corner. We were overcharged - not much €10 but it's the principle. I hate being  scammed! It's very difficult to avoid it here. They're all hustling and you just have to be firm with them, unsolicited guides, porters etc...... The fact that the taxi was called by the hotel put me off guard but of course , the taxi man got his cut in addition to a high fare!! 

We boarded the ferry. It was very professionally run with a VIP, Business and Economy class. It departed and arrived on time into Stone Town's (capital of Zanzibar) harbour. The journey took 11/2 hours. 

Even though it is the same country, we had to fill out forms for Immigration. They take this very seriously. We were advised that we would have to produce evidence of having been vaccinated against Yellow Fever. Luckily, ours were still In date from a previous journey, but it wasn't asked for. 

Out the gate and the inevitable onslaught from taxi men, porters, would be guides etc. We had decided to have lunch at The Mercury named after Freddy Mercury of Queen fame, who was born in Stone Town. The view over the harbour was idyllic but the food was mediocre. 

Before entering the restaurant, I had been approached by a Taxi man and when I said later, he remained outside the restaurant for the hour or so, while we lunched. I hadn't the heart to refuse him so after some bargaining, he agreed to drive us the 54 km to our hotel, which we had booked online earlier this am, based on Trip Advisor's recommendation. 

As we drove first around Stone Town and then westwards and southwards towards Bwejuu - Paje, I was struck by the unfinished nature of the buildings Some fine old colonial buildings in a state of disrepair. It appeared to be an impoverished area but everyone was well fed and healthy looking. The towns reminded noof the   village in Ryan's Daughter.

We came across a political rally. Hundreds of young people pouring out of busses , wearing shirts depicting the president, who is up for re-election next month. One young man jumped in front of the car, brandishing a stick. Our driver said he was drunk - that a lot of the crowd get drunk! I was amazed as the population, appears to be almost 100% Muslim - girls as young as six, wearing Muslim dress. I thought Muslims did not drink? 

We eventually reached the hotel only to discover that they had overbooked. The receptionist said that he would bring us to another hotel nearby for tonight, I was not well pleased - previous experience had suggested caution. There was nothing for it but to take the offer. We were driven through the local village with its deeply pot - holed streets and unfinished houses only to enter the most idyllic place on earth- a small number of bungalows facing on to the sea; each with its own private part of the beach.  

Upstairs was one huge bedroom , downstairs a lounge and outside a

magnificent stone bathroom., where one could shower under the stars. 

We relaxed. We were very tired. An Zanzibar Margarita proved the perfect aperitif.  We then dined on the freshest calamari followed by a local white fish and drank a grassy Sauvignon Blanc from  Stellenbosch, South Africa with the meal. It was a stunning location for a meal. under the starry sky with a nice, warm sea breeze, and the Mosquitos kept at bay with a lathering of Deet spray Heaven!