After a wonderful breakfast of Eggs Royal, my favourite breakfast, we set out on a 45 minute drive to Burtonport, from whence the ferry departed for the island.
There are two ferry companies operating the route. The ferries are frequent, about one per hour. As tourists are fewer, there is no necessity for foot passengers to pre book. If one wishes to take a car, one may.The Free Travel Pass applies - otherwise €15.00 pp. as a foot passenger. The company offered to take our car but we declined as we had read that the roads are particularly narrow.
The crossing was most efficient - the ferry left on time and arrived 20 minutes later.
We had hoped to rent electric bikes as the chief attraction was the lighthouse (we appear to be chasing down Irish lighthouses!). However, no electric bikes were available- book in advance - the Aranmore Ferry has a most instructive web site. As a consequence, we decided it was better to walk. I could not find any information as to the distance involved so we set off. Then I recalled that there was Internet access on the island so I turned on Google maps - 4.7 km about 1 hour’s walk taking into consideration the steep incline at the commencement of the walk and a stop at the Beaver Memorial, possibly a little more!!
The sky was overcast. The initial third of the walk was very hilly. I was pleased that we hadn’t taken push bikes as a group who started out with us, had to take frequent breaks and we constantly caught up with them However, the latter two thirds is flatter.
As we progressed, we looked back at spectacular views of the Atlantic, if a little marred by low cloud.
The road was dotted with abandoned cottages
and modern houses most of which appeared incongruous in the landscape.
We arrived at Beaver’s Island Memorial - built to honour the local people who emigrated to Beaver Island, in the Great Lakes USA, as a result of a 19th century land clearance by the local landlord. The two areas are now twinned.
From there we continued to the Lighthouse. Picnic areas abounded
As we arrived, the fog was enveloping us though it was only early afternoon. The lighthouse was off limits.
My walking companion saw a bus pass us as we climbed and decided to investigate. It belonged to a local man driving a group of Polish tourists but he agreed to take us back to the ferry! He categorically refused to take payment, saying he was returning to the ferry anyway! He was a very interesting gentleman - he had left the island in his youth but returned. He pointed out the RUC barracks burnt out during the War of Independence,
the abandoned WWII lookout post and the famous steps - one can walk down the steps and touch the sea.
Our guide said that it was a dangerous undertaking at anytime but particularly in today’s damp conditions. The island has an RNLI boat - our driver was a volunteer for the last 25 years, a helicopter service which can have one at Letterkenny or Sligo hospitals within minutes and an ambulance to service the helicopter. Our driver continued that the helicopter and /or the RNLI are frequently called to those who attempt walking the steps. And end up in the Atlantic!!!
There have been some spectacular rescues around the island.
An American, Wayne Dickinson, yachtsman left Boston in October 1982 on an 8ft 9 inch yacht and caught in a force 10 wind, his yacht smashed on the rocks near the lighthouse. He thought he had landed in Scotland. He sought refuge in the lighthouse and his view from there would have led him to believe that he had landed on an un inhabited island as there are no signs of human habitation from that viewpoint. He was found by a local man.
On the return journey, Sebastian the Polish guide, from Krakow, informed us that he had come for a day to Aranmore four years ago and hadn’t left. He now runs a successful hostel and is training with the RNLI. Many of his visitors return again, he advised. His Polish group were all Poles working in Dublin - the group was comprised tourists of all ages, including children born in Ireland of Polish parents, Sebastian added.
The population of the island had been falling continuously. In the recent past, the island emailed residents of the USA and Australia inviting them to settle in Arranmore. I asked our driver how successful it was, he replied in the negative. Many who came thought work was available, but the email had specified that it was an invitation to work remotely as there is excellent broadband on the island!!
Back at the ferry terminal, we lunched at Earlys - an institution on the island, where in better times the pub/restaurant would be resonating with Irish music. On our return to the ferry terminal, we saw our Polish friends dining at The Only Plaice, suitably supervised by Sebastian.
We returned by ferry
and as we sailed, we saw lovely retreats with private beaches
If one is a local, one can buy a site for €60-100k or if an outsider, one can purchase a rundown property but not a site. The cost of building or renovation must be expensive as all materials have to be shipped from the mainland.
We returned to the hotel via Finntown, as the direct route from Glenties to Burtonport had road works most of the way, which necessitated stopping at multiple traffic lights to allow for a one way system - at one stage we thought we might miss our preferred ferry!
A very enjoyable day - one to be highly recommended.
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