In July 2020, we had a lovely break in Glengariff, Co. Kerry, followed by a stay with friends in Ballyconeely, Co. Galway.
We departed for Schull, West Cork, on July 1st - a long 3.5 hour journey from Dublin. It was a beautiful, sunny evening. We had booked into the Harbour Hotel, the only hotel in town.
Later, we had a walk around the town. It appeared to be a little rundown.
We walked to the pier and sat in the sunshine for a time watching the boatmen at work
The choice of restaurants was poor - it appears that the deep fat fryer is king. We got into conversation with a couple, who ran a well known Limerick restaurant. They closed during Covid and now on their sixties, they will not re-open when restaurants are permitted to open again. It was the gentleman who informed us that most restaurants now survive without a chef but with two deep fat fryers. It does appear that the demand is for deep fried food - not very healthy. Another disappointment was the lack of fish on the menu considering we were in West Cork!! What there was, was deep fried. However, I was delighted to dine on a beautifully poached Black Sole at the hotel.
The sun was shining and it was a perfect evening to eat outside. We are at the Town House - one could either eat at the rear of the restaurant, which wasn’t very appealing or out front where all traffic including large trucks, traversed the Main Street. We dined at the latter venue. The food was adequate.
Friday’s forecast was for rain. The sky was overcast and it was cool for a July day. We set out for Mizen Head.
On arrival, we were very impressed with the area. Last time we were here, over 20 years ago, it appears, the bridge to the Lighthouse was under construction.
We arrived at the lighthouse
The lighthouse had an informative display of life as a lighthouse keeper and even sported its own logo on its China
A very informative museum and well stocked gift shop completed a worthwhile visit
From here we continued up to the next peninsula - our destination Sheep’s Head.
The approach road was tortuous - a very narrow winding road where one had to drive with extreme caution. We arrived. The boirín (very narrow road) to the Lighthouse was 2km and as it had commenced raining heavily, we decided to forego this walk and returned to our hotel at Schull.
Next day, we departed for Cork City. We took the coastal route through Ballydehob, on to Skibbereen where we visited the museum which illustrated the effects of the Famine of 1845-1848 on the lives of the local people,
and Clonakilty. We had a walk around the latter town which was thronged with people.
On arrival in Cork, on Saturday evening we checked into the Metropole Hotel. The bedroom was small and very warm at night but it was well presented in all other respects. That evening friends had invited us to dine at their home in Maryborough Woods. It was a beautiful area with small enclaves of houses dotted among the woods. I have never seen a nicer urban development. Other friends joined us and a great night was had by all.
On Sunday, we took a train to Cobh.
We walked around the picturesque town whose claim to fame is its cathredal. As we sat outside having a drink, we experienced a monsoon like shower which sent everyone scuttling for cover!!
As we were seated at the base of an incline, a half a foot of water passed beneath our feet nestled for safety on the table rungs.
We returned to Cork and dined in the Metropole. The weather was so cool that we were glad to be residents as otherwise we would have had to eat outside!!
Monday morning was spent shopping in the English Market made famous by Queen Elizabeth 11’s visit there ten years before.
En route home, at our friends’ suggestion, we visited Haulbowline Park.
This was a former steel works which had been abandoned, left in an unsightly manner but now a real asset to Cork. It is quite small 1 km full circle but there are beautiful views of Cobh
Spike island was also visible in the harbour
A great break ...
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