Day 4

Today, we decided to visit Seamus Heaney’s Home Place at Bellaghy, Co. Derry. It was a most impressive structure mainly funded by NI with some aid from the EU. 

The Exhibition was very instructive and we had the museum almost to ourselves. Covid, we were advised,  had substantially reduced visitor numbers. It traced his young life, his time St Columb’s College Derry, to which he won a scholarship from the 11+ examination.   On his departure, his parents presented him with a gift of a pen with a gold nib  - a very expensive gift for an eleven year old! They must have foreseen what was to come, his time at Queen’s, later his professional career as a lecturer there and his time at Harvard and the award of the Nobel prize for literature. 

The exhibition is interactive and one can hear the poet reading his poems - his favourite poem was, he acknowledged, from Clearances 

There is a café on the premises, which serves light meals. It appears that it must be patronised  by the locals as the number of diners greatly exceeded the number of museum visitors! 

We quitted Bellaghy and drove to nearby Toome. 

A canal walk has recently been opened there. 

We set off on the walk along the canal, bathed in the warm afternoon sunshine. 

to Lough Neagh 

Ireland’s largest fresh water lake. 

We returned to the car, en route we sought some refreshments at the lock keeper’s cottage and heritage centre 

We returned to Ardtara and sat on the lawn in the warm evening sunshine imbibing an aperitif as we awaited dinner - a very satisfying day. 

Today, we departed Ardtara, having first had a walk around the perimeter of the estate. On our walk, we came across the remnants of the linen industry associated with Ardtara.  We first saw a dilapidated  building, dated 1929, once used in the industry 

in addition to a number of ruins of stone buildings adjacent to the nearby stream 

and finally evidence that the tradition of linen manufacturing continues in Upperlands 

The present premises 

to this day in the hands of the Clark family. 

All in all in all a great break. 

Day 3

Yesterday, we departed Glenties. The weather has now improved so I decided to have a swim in the Atlantic ( it’s waters are much warmer than the waters of the East coast, as a consequence of the North Atlantic Drift). The nearest beach, we were advised was Narin. We had to traverse some of the same route we had taken to Burtonport the previous day and arrived at a sunny, fine sand beach. 

I togged out and ventured in -  the water felt icy at first but once submerged, it was so refreshing !! The beach was full of holiday makers enjoying the glorious sunshine 

The area had an association with St Conall, whose island retreat is accessible on foot at low tide. 

Afterwards, departed for Ardtara House, adjacent to Maghera, Co Derry. We drove through the scenic Sperrin Mountains and arrived in the late afternoon. It is a beautiful house, built 1895 by linen magnates. 

The property had been sympathetically restored and the gardens and are a wonder to behold.

We were allotted  one of the best rooms in the house with views of the garden and woodland to the front 

Friends joined us on the lawn for drinks as we soaked up the sunshine - in fact we had to retreat to the shade after a time. 

Aperitifs in the drawing room followed by a sumptuous dinner, in what was formerly the games room, was a gastronomic pleasure. After a digestif, we repaired to our rooms. 

A very pleasurable evening.   

Covid Break Two - Day Two

As we had extensively toured Donegal in 1983 and as the weather was not conducive to a day on the beach, we decided to visit Aranmore Island. 

After a wonderful breakfast of Eggs Royal, my favourite breakfast, we set out on a 45 minute drive to Burtonport, from whence the ferry departed for the island. 

There are two ferry companies operating the route. The ferries are frequent, about one per hour. As tourists are fewer,  there is no necessity for foot passengers to pre book. If one wishes to take a car, one may.The  Free Travel Pass applies - otherwise €15.00 pp. as a foot passenger.  The company offered to take our car but we declined as we had read that the roads are particularly narrow. 

The crossing was most efficient - the ferry left on time and arrived 20 minutes later. 

We had hoped to rent electric bikes as the chief attraction was the lighthouse (we appear to be chasing down Irish lighthouses!). However, no electric bikes were available- book in advance - the Aranmore Ferry has a most instructive web site. As a consequence, we decided it was better to walk. I could not find any information as to the distance involved so we set off. Then I recalled that there was Internet access on the island so I turned on Google maps - 4.7 km about 1 hour’s walk taking into consideration the steep incline at the commencement of the walk and a stop at the Beaver Memorial, possibly a little more!! 

The sky was overcast. The initial third of the walk was very hilly. I was pleased that we hadn’t taken push bikes as a group who started out with us, had to take frequent breaks and we constantly caught up with them      However, the latter two thirds is flatter. 

As we progressed, we looked back at spectacular  views of the Atlantic, if a little marred by low cloud. 

The road was dotted with abandoned cottages

and modern houses most of which appeared incongruous in the landscape. 

We arrived at Beaver’s Island Memorial  - built to honour the local people who emigrated to Beaver Island, in the Great Lakes USA, as a result of a 19th century land clearance by the local landlord. The two areas are now twinned. 

From there we continued to the Lighthouse. Picnic areas abounded 

As we arrived, the fog was enveloping us though it was only early afternoon. The lighthouse was off limits.  

My walking companion saw a bus pass us as we climbed and decided to investigate. It belonged to a local man driving a group of Polish tourists but he agreed to take us back to the ferry! He categorically  refused to take payment, saying he was returning to the ferry anyway! He was a very interesting gentleman - he had left the island in his youth but returned. He pointed out the RUC barracks burnt out during the War of Independence,

the abandoned WWII  lookout post and the famous steps - one can walk down the steps and touch the sea. 

Our guide said that it was a dangerous undertaking at anytime but particularly in today’s damp conditions. The island has an RNLI boat - our driver was a volunteer for the last 25 years, a helicopter service which can have one at Letterkenny or Sligo hospitals within minutes and an ambulance to service the helicopter. Our driver continued that  the helicopter and /or the RNLI are frequently called  to those who attempt walking the steps. And end up in the Atlantic!!! 

There have been some spectacular rescues around the island. 

An American, Wayne Dickinson, yachtsman left Boston in October 1982 on an 8ft 9 inch yacht and caught in a force 10 wind, his yacht smashed on the rocks near the lighthouse. He thought he had landed in Scotland. He sought refuge in the lighthouse and his view from there would have led him to believe that he had landed on an un inhabited island as there are no signs of human habitation from that viewpoint. He was found by a local man. 

On the return journey,  Sebastian the Polish guide, from Krakow,  informed us that he had come for a day to Aranmore four years ago and hadn’t left. He now runs a successful hostel and is training with the RNLI. Many of his visitors return again, he advised. His Polish group were all Poles working in Dublin - the group was comprised tourists of all ages, including children born in Ireland of Polish parents, Sebastian added. 

The population of the island had been falling continuously. In the recent past, the island emailed residents of the USA and Australia inviting them to settle in Arranmore. I asked our driver how successful it was, he replied in the negative. Many who came thought work was available, but the email had specified that it was an invitation to work remotely as there is excellent broadband on the island!! 

Back at the ferry terminal, we lunched at Earlys - an institution on the island, where in better times the pub/restaurant would be resonating with Irish music. On our return to the ferry terminal, we saw our Polish friends dining at The Only Plaice, suitably supervised by Sebastian. 

We returned by ferry 

and as we sailed, we saw lovely retreats with private beaches

If one is a local, one can buy a site for €60-100k or if an outsider, one can purchase a rundown property but not a site. The cost of building or renovation must be expensive as all materials have to be shipped from the mainland. 

We returned to the hotel via Finntown, as the direct route from Glenties to Burtonport had road works most of the way, which necessitated stopping at multiple traffic lights to allow for a one way system - at one stage we thought we might miss our preferred ferry!  

A very enjoyable day - one to be highly recommended. 

Another year 2021 - another Covid holiday

It’s a year now since we were able to leave Dublin

In July 2020, we had a lovely break in Glengariff, Co. Kerry, followed by a stay with friends in Ballyconeely, Co.  Galway. 

We departed for Schull, West Cork, on July 1st  - a long 3.5 hour journey from Dublin. It was a beautiful, sunny evening. We had booked into the Harbour Hotel,  the only hotel in town. 

Later, we had a walk around the town. It appeared to be a little rundown. 

We walked to the pier and sat in the sunshine for a time watching the boatmen at work 

The choice of restaurants was poor - it appears that the deep fat fryer is king. We got into conversation with a couple, who ran a well known Limerick restaurant. They closed during Covid and now on their sixties, they will not re-open when restaurants are permitted to open again. It was the gentleman who informed us that most restaurants now survive without a chef but with two deep fat fryers.  It does appear that the demand is for deep fried food - not very healthy. Another disappointment was the lack of fish on the menu considering we were in West Cork!! What there was, was deep fried. However, I was delighted to dine on a beautifully poached Black Sole at the hotel.  

The sun was shining and it was a perfect evening to eat outside. We are at the Town House - one could either eat at the rear of the restaurant, which wasn’t very appealing or out front where all traffic including large trucks, traversed the Main Street. We dined at the latter venue. The food was adequate. 

Friday’s forecast was for rain. The sky was overcast and it was cool for a July day. We set out for Mizen Head. 

On arrival, we were very impressed with the area. Last time we were here, over 20 years ago,  it appears, the bridge to the Lighthouse was under construction. 

We arrived at the lighthouse 

The lighthouse had an informative display of life as a lighthouse keeper and even sported its own logo on its China

A very informative museum and well stocked gift shop completed a worthwhile visit 

From here we continued up to the next peninsula - our destination Sheep’s Head.

The approach road was tortuous - a very narrow winding road where one had to drive with extreme caution. We arrived. The boirín  (very narrow road)  to the Lighthouse was 2km and as it had commenced raining heavily, we decided to forego this walk and returned to our hotel at Schull. 

Next day, we departed for Cork City. We took the coastal route through Ballydehob, on to Skibbereen where we visited the museum which illustrated the effects of the Famine of 1845-1848 on the lives of the local people,

and Clonakilty. We had a walk around the latter town which was thronged with people. 

On arrival in Cork, on Saturday evening we checked into the Metropole Hotel. The bedroom was small  and very warm at night  but it was well presented in all other respects. That evening friends had invited us to dine at their home in Maryborough Woods. It was a beautiful area with small enclaves of houses dotted among the woods. I have never seen a nicer urban development. Other friends joined us and a great night was had by all. 

On Sunday, we took a train to Cobh. 

We walked around the picturesque town whose claim to fame is its cathredal. As we sat outside having a drink, we experienced a monsoon like  shower which sent everyone scuttling for cover!! 

As we were seated at the base of an incline, a half a foot of water passed beneath our feet nestled for safety on the table rungs. 

We returned to Cork and dined in the Metropole. The weather was so cool that we were glad to be  residents as otherwise we would have had to eat outside!! 

Monday morning was spent shopping in the English Market made famous by Queen Elizabeth 11’s visit there ten years before. 

En route home, at our friends’ suggestion, we visited Haulbowline Park. 

This was a former steel works which had been abandoned,  left in an unsightly manner  but now a real asset to Cork. It is quite small 1 km full circle but there are beautiful views of Cobh 

Spike island was also visible in the harbour 

A great break ...