Rottnest Island

Today Friday, Good Friday, we took the train from Perth to Freemantle. Trains depart every 15 minutes and the journey takes 25 minutes. 

The sight of the P&O office reminded me of my departure on a P&O liner to Singapore from thence by air to London on our return from our 6 month gap 1/2 year in Australia. (was the term invented then?). 

From Freo (Fremantle to you and me) we  set sail  for Rottnest Island.

It  is an island 11km and 4.5 km at its widest point  and ferries leave from  Freo every hour. 

The crossing is 19.7 km takes 25 minutes. A number of tour companies operate ferries. (c $60 return fare) 

The island had 63 beaches and 20 secluded bays. There one encounters the famous Quokka, 

colonies of Sea Lions, Fur Seals and Whale - September to December only. The island sports  the remnants of Coastal Defence systems installed in preparation for WW11 and a maze of tunnels beneath the impressive WW11 gun on Oliver Hill. 

Like much of Australia, Rottnest was once a penal colony and early colonial cottages dating from the 1840s were Home to prison wardens and pilot boat crews. 

On arrival, we visited the tourist bureau. No motorized transport is allowed on the  island with the exception  of tour buses (I saw one)  and the hop on hop off buses which pass various appointed stops  every half hour ($20). The only other acceptable mode of transport on the island is the bicycle. You can bring your own or hire one. 

We embarked at Thompson - the only point on the island where you can buy food with the exception of Geordie Bay, close to Thompson. We hadn’t realised this and consequently had nothing from breakfast (a slice of toast) to 16.00 hrs, when we arrived in Geordie. Some tourists arrived well equipped with their cool boxes but alas not us!! 

CC took the Oliver Hill Railway to Oliver Hill Guns, a defence settlemebt with guns and a maze of tunnels built to protect Perth in the event of invasion during WW11. The gun was never fired in anger- the area never suffered attack. 

J and I commenced our trip on the southern side of the island. Our first  stop was Little Salmon Bay.

It was a virtual paradise with its aquamarine waters lapping the finest sand and peppered with yachts - the playground of the wealthy of Perth. 

We walked to Salmon Bay and caught the next bus to Cape Vlamingh, where seals are visible in summer but alas it is Autumn! Here we had a view of the Indian Ocean. The waters were quite rough

and during WW11 two lookout post were built here   This is the most western point on the island. 

We continued north and on to Narrow Neck, the narrowest point in the island where both coasts could be seen. The north coast was not as attractive as the south as the bays and coves were larger. We arrived at Georgie Bay, where we purchased some food and took the bus back to our point of departure at Thompson Bay. 

We returned to Thompson and decide to have a glass of wine - but alas no alcohol was being served without food. I thought it might be a State Law but no the island’s decision as visitors frequently  get too drunk, the cashier informed us!! The food option was a rather large pizza!! As we had eaten we declined ! Hence no alcohol!!  

The 17.55 ferry took us back to Freo. Dinner and an early return to Perth.   Tomorrow Margaret River - we have to be ready for collection at 07.20!! More anon!! 

Perth, W.A.

If it’s Thursday, it must be Perth. 

Perth’s  first inhabitants arrived c. 40,000 -60,000 years  ago.  In March 1827, Captain James Sterling of the Royal Navy arrived in the Swan River with its many natural attractions;  previous navigators encountered only inhospitable environments. In 1829, the first settlement was established. Due to severe labour shortages, the British sent convicts between 1850 and 1868 to help establish the settlements of Perth, its port Freemantle and Guilford - the latter a rich, fertile area to supply the inhabitants with food. 

In 1890, gold was discovered in Kimberley and Kalgoorlue. A population explosion resulted and Perth became the area’s capital. In the 1940s it supplied minerals for WW11.  Today, it’s economy relies heavily on minerals 

On arrival last evening,  we tried to stay up until midnight but I awoke at 03.45 and couldn’t sleep again! I finally surfaced at 11.00 ! 

We walked the 2 km Riverside Drive, the Swan river pedestrian walkway,  into Barrack Street Jetty, where most of the tour operators are located. It was 25’ with a pleasant breeze.  

En route we met the camels that  can take you on a tour down Riverside Drive and its environs. The camels were the long haul method of transport in WA  in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. 

 

I had booked online a trip to Margaret River, famous for its wineries, through Aviator, whose agents are Adams Pinnacle Tours. I visited them at Barrack St jetty to confirm our pick up at the hotel on Saturday morning - more anon....

The city is only 200 years old so it does not have the attractions of a European city. At nearby Barracks Square, we saw the Bell Tower.

The bells, dating from the 14th century, originated in the Church of St Martin in the Fields, London.  The bells were rung to celebrate many historic occasions such as the defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588 and the victory at El Alameinin 1942 and the coronation of every British king since George 11in 1727. If you fancy, you can chime the bells yourself, an experience, I am reliably informed, is not available elsewhere on the planet!!

We continued up Barrack St towards the CBD. We passed the Supreme Court of W.A. set  in a beautiful palm filled park. Match that Dublin! 

Further on, what I thought was a Church, was indeed the Town Hall - the plaque outside recounted its history- almost 200 years old!

We turned into pedestrianised and smoke free Hay St Mall lined with colourful,  autumnal trees to protect shoppers from the sun.

We continued into Murray Mall, where the Wesleylian Church was holding an exhibition on a modern interpretation of the Stations of the Cross - it is after all Holy Thursday! 

We took the CAT -a 3 line circular free bus service servicing the CBD and its surroundings. The red line took us back to our hotel, where we will await J’s arrival. En route we passed St George’s Cathedral, of architectural interest in that the old church has a very modern extension to the front. 

Two other points of interest which time may deny me a visit are the Perth Cultural Centre and Kings Park, reputed to be the largest city park in the world!

More tomorrow - from Rottnest Island.......

Doha to Perth

That whiskey again!! We had to clear emigration and security before picking up the bottle. Having acquired it from Customs, we proceeded to the gate, where we were again put through security and guess what the bottle couldn’t go in hand baggage - the Australian Customs  will only allow Duty Free purchased at envarkation even though it was in a sealed bag! It had to be put in the hold! So readers beware of taking alcohol to Australia.!!

11.05 hours to Perth.!  It’s 01.55 and all passengers are aboard. We’re scheduled to take off at 02.05 and the engines are beginning to roll. The flight is only about 60% full. We’re surrounded by small children so I hope they sleep! 

As I had surprisingly slept for most of the trip, I didn’t notice the time passing. I finished watching The Lady in the Van, interrupted on arrival in Doha. Maggie Smith is a wonderful actor. 

On arrival, the automatic passport machines made emigration  painless, unlike Qatar, where the waiting was endless. We collected our bags and were out on the concourse awaiting the bus to the city - frequent service Aus $3.80. On arrival at the depot, there appeared to be a lack of taxis but we were soon directed to a rank and within minutes we arrived at Mantra on Hay Street.  

A snack and its off to bed. We’ll check out Perth tomorrow. ....

Doha, Qatar.

Sand, sand and more sand, replied a friend who had spent some time in Doha.  Add to that skyscrapers and traffic and you have the picture!! 

I awoke to the sun peeping  through an aperture in the curtain. It was 0530 and the sun was high in the sky. I slept again and awoke too exhausted to go to breakfast. 

I felt refreshed by 1100hrs and I arose. We had missed the early sight seeing tour and were too early for the later one so the concierge suggested we take a taxi. Taxi fares are inexpensive. There are very well regulated The metre vocally tells the passenger what the fare is and the tip is included. I haven’t seen this before. Taxis are necessary as the temperature today was 38’!! In summer the temperature reached 45-50c !!! Unimaginable!!  

We taxied to the  Museum of Islamic Art.  

It was a beautiful space. It is located on what I presume is a reclaimed area, adjacent to the Corniche, a very pleasant 7 km, palm fringed promenade surrounding Doha Bay teeming with dhows, traditional boats. It is to their credit that these have been retained. In Singapore the city was sanitized and the dhows which I saw on my first visit in the 1970s had disappeared on a later visit in the 1990s. 

There are two floors of exhibits and a library floor. It was designed by the renowned architect I. M. Pei. It is an airy space -a good juxta position to the heat outside. It is the largest exhibition of Islamic art in the world. 

The exhibitions include not only Qatar’s art but Iranian and Syrian too. Here  are a few examples of the richness of these cultures: 

                                The Koran

                     A Horseman passed by!!

                          Exquisite jewelry 

Fancy a spot of opium - on the left is an opium cup!

              14th century Mosque lamps

All the exhibition rooms display the exhibits to best advantage. 

                 10th century ceramic bowl

                  9th century ceramic bowl

From both floor but particularly the 2nd , there was a great view of the Cornice and the CBD 

On quitting the Museum

 I discovered that I had lost a pair of reading glasses. I was to regret enquiring as a full scale search of all information booths ensued, resulting in my being taken all over the Museum.  The glasses,  having  been located and my ownership established, I had to produce ID.  All I had was my driver’s licence, which was duly taken together with a form  detailing my personal data. After what seemed an interminable time, the gentleman returned bearing  my Driver’s License! 

 Meantime CC baked in the sun as the sleuthing continued -  all for the sake of €3 glasses but there was no halting the process once it began!   The Qataris are a  very obliging and friendly people and at pains to enquire if you are enjoying your stay. 

Glasses secured, we took the short walk across the road to the Souk., which re-opened in 2006. It was 1600hrs and the Souk had just opened at 15.30 hrs. 

              Awaiting the opening of business 

As a result it was quiet - usually the Souk is teeming with life! 

The Souk is divided into areas - the Bird Souk, the Textile, the Gold etc. 

The Tea Souk , where the men repair for tea before the evening’s business begins. 

The Gold Souk  is in a class of its own.

The shops are beautifully appointed. It is enclosed and air conditioned! 

One of many! In Dubai in the 1980s, I purchased a 22carat golf bracelet and chain. On having it valued in Ireland, I had done incredibly well. Later this and other jewellery was stolen from home. The jeweller who visited us to assess the loss told of how he was duped in Dubai - on returning home he asked a colleague to size the ring and to his horror the ring had only a film of gold. This time I made no purchases!! 

We taxied back to the hotel.   En route we saw the very imposing parliament building 

and a few Qataris out on a camel ride!  

Two other areas are said to be attractions - the residential area namely The Pearl  Qatar, 400 hectares with two circular offshore islands that mirror Doha Bay’s natural shape. 

It reputed to have a Mediterranean feel  with its marinas and striking architecture - a refuge for the wealthy. The other attraction within the city area is Katara, a cultural centre. I cannot say whether it’s a legitimate site or a cross between Disneyland and Bunratty Folk Park. When we return, we’ll factor them in with a foray into the surrounding desert.....

A well earned rest followed by dinner and we taxied to the airport 30/40 minutes (fare 65) to board our 02.05 for Perth.   .....

Dublin to Doha, Qatar

We arrived at Doha International airport aboard the Dreamliner  at 00.10 local time - 20 minutes early. Local time in Dublin was 22.10 hrs. We were quickly taken to the terminal but endured a wait at emigration. 

Most passengers were transmitting to African and Asian countries or to Australia and New Zealand. Our fellow passengers at emigration were mainly young Indian boys, work visas in hand, coming to do the menial jobs here. The Qataris, I believe, are given a government allowance to hire foreign workers!! 

CC had bought a bottle of spirits, and as a consequence we were taken to customs, where they will hold it until we board the flight to Perth. The officer was very pleasant about it, explaining that no alcohol can be permitted to enter Qatar !!

That settled, we collected our bags and took a taxi to the  new Intercontinental hotel (there are 2 in Doha). At the Dublin Holiday Fair,  the Qatari Airline’s agent informed us that as we were travelling in the off season the Qatari Tourist Board were offering a free night’s accommodation in one’s hotel of choice. It is an attempt, he explained, to entice visitors to Qatar.  We are quickly checked in to room 2904 on the 29th floor.- it’s 59 story’s high!!  We have that room until we depart for the airport at 23.00 hours, which is most civilised. 

Initiallly, I couldn’t sleep but was I glad to break the trip after 7 hours;  the thought of another 11hours to Perth with a 2 hour  stopover in Doha was more than the body could bear!!

   Views from the 29th floor towards the CBD 

Until tomorrow then.......