I had the impression that the Meseta plateau was a flat table top mountain but this was untrue. The Meseta is punctuated by numerous sierras. As we drove north, the landscape became greener, a reflection on the increasing rainfall.
The ubiquitous bull accompanied us.
We stopped in the Ribera del Duero area and purchased a few cases of wine. Two of the Bodegas were closed when we called -well after all it was siesta time!!
We drove through the town of Lamia just south of Burgos. It was a picturesque village dominated by a Parador on one side of its impressive square. In the plaza, were located many restaurants, where people sat outside enjoying the sunny afternoon
On arrival in Bilbao, the rain was lashing down. Luckily we got the last parking spot in the hotel carpark.
We ventured out to see the Old Town. It was dark as we reached it by the tram, which stops right outside the excellently appointed Zenit hotel. The tram circles the city and stops st the main sights- €5 per day or €1.50 per trip.
We alighted at the Old Town. The rain was pouring down so we sought refuge in a Bar and had a glass of wine and a pintxos (Basque for tapas).
We sought out the nearest restaurant for dinner - menu del noche €17.50pp. The latter included a three course meal with bread, water and wine. We ordered red and white and were surprised when a bottle of each was put on the table and we were requested to help ourselves! Usually it's a glass of wine with the Menu del Dia. We drank half a bottle each and the price remained. We noticed all tables were provided with a bottle of wine - a Rioja 100% Tempranillo - very acceptable and the white did not identify the grape but was also very acceptable. How will we ever face Irish prices again? The food too was excellent - my starter of prawn tagliatelle was the best I've tasted.
This morning on checking the weather apps - all but one stated that rain was not imminent!! Do I believe them - no! Having breakfasted locally, we took the tram to the Guggenheim Museum.
The museum is composed of titanium curves which appear like running water in the sun, with computer cut rectangular and triangular windows. To me it is an architect's design set to impress and not user friendly. If one alights from the tram, other than that one is wheelchair bound, one has to climb at least 50 steps up and as many down again to access the main reception area!
Up to the 1970s, This was a ship building and port area. With the demise of the ship building industry, the City decided to revive its fortunes and rebuild much of the old industrial landscape. The Guggenheim foundation aided Bilbao's development. It continues to have a similar function - today it brings tourists from all over the world to the area as the ships brought sailors in the 19th and much of the 20th centuries. On the water's edge is a photographic exhibition of this transition.
A view of the river from the 3rd storey
The sky darkened and we considered going to the Old Town while it was dry and returning to the museum once the rain arrived. However, as we considered our options, the rain arrived and we sought refuge in the Guggenheim! It acts as a European showcase for the Foundation's art. Picasso' s Guernica is not on display. The Basque's have been requesting its return !
It is a very impressive building, designed by the American architect Frank Ghery. My question is, is the structure a homage to the architect or the artist?
The interior is designed with massive open spaces - but the exhibition space dwarfs in comparison.
While it exhibited the old masters,
Monet
it also exhibits some very avantgarde works
including Warhol's depiction of Marlyn Munroe. (no photographs permitted).
Having completed our visit, we adjourned to the restaurant area for lunch. There were three - the 55th best restaurant in the world at €80pp, a Bistro lunch at €28pp and neither unlike last night's included wine!!! The final choice was Bar food reasonably priced. After some deliberation, we chose the Bar as we decided that if we lunched, we would be incapable of continuing our city sightseeing. Three pintxos and a glass of wine sufficed €9.
I would like to return to both San Sebastián and Bilbao to sample their culinary delights but on this trip, we do not have time to enjoy gastronomic delights. After a day's sightseeing, we're exhausted!
We took the tram to the Old Town and alighted this time at Ribera and explored the medieval Siete Calles. (Seven medieval streets)
The area abounds with restaurants and Bars.
The shops were closed as it was again siesta time!! Some of the Bars and restaurants are long established. Their interiors exhibit all the grace and eligence of a bygone era.
We went to see Santiago Cathedral, but only to evaluate the exterior-there's only so many churches a gal can take!
From there we returned to the Nirvion river alias Bilbao river. We admired the Arriaga theatre (1890)
and on the other side of the river stands Santander station (1902).
We returned to the medieval interior once again to visit Plaza Nueva (1849), built inNeoclassical style.
It appeared similar to the converted bull ring in San Sebastián but there is still a bull ring in the new town. Here in the sunny plaza I sat enjoying the most densely chocolate flavoured ice cream, I've ever tasted. I won't tease you with a photograph. All afternoon we were blessed with sunshine, having escaped the morning rain whilst in the Guggenheim.
Having quitted the Plaza, I returned to the hotel by tram, CC leaving me to take the funicular railway. Now we must decide where to eat tonight?😙
After much deliberation, we decided to dine at the Guggheim bistro. The booking system is quite confusing - when we tried to phone, we were informed the restaurant did not open til 20.00 hrs, when we tried to book online, it stated that we were joining a waiting list. When we phoned after 20.00, we were informed that we had secured a booking online!! This would lead one to believe that the restaurant was full but on arrival, it was catering for only c.20 guests, when it could accommodate at least 100!!
We chose the Tasting Menu st €38 and €12 for matching wines.
The food was extraordinary. The waiter explained each course and the wine which accompanied it.
Egg roasted st low temperature etc
The hake etc
Pan fried French toast etc
The dessert wine had been made in house!! The waiter gave us the recipe but I think I'll pass on it! All other wines were impressive. (Apologies - omitted to photograph the tuna tartare and the delicious lamb).
An enjoyable end to a perfect sight seeing day.
Tomorrow, we leave Spain for France - next stop Bordeaux........
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