San Sebastián has stolen my heart! What with its crescent shaped beach lapped by the deep, blue water of the Bay of Biscay, the city is in a spectacular location. The town is watched over by Christ on his pedestal, high above the city.
The old town is encircled by the new. It is a lively city, with proper secure cycle lanes and as it is a beach side town, the crowds are constantly making their way to and from the beach via an extensive promenade.
The city abounds with parks providing shade from the noon day sun.
The temperature is in the late 20s at present but as we depart, tomorrow promises rain and temperatures in the teens. However, the forecast for Madrid is a warning of 40 +!!!
We again strolled through the old streets and stopped for lunch at a tapas bar. There are numerous bars in the area and some specialise in a particular tapa such as for example prawn or crab, together with an endless supply of other varieties
Following lunch, we continued to the San Telmo Museum, where an excellent history of the Basque region is depicted from earliest times to the modern era. There was also a very interesting temporary exhibition depicting the development of the career of Alfred Hitchcock
The museum is rather interesting as the entrance is an example of modern Spanish architecture,
while inside the museum proper is a converted Benedictine friary!
Afterwards we repaired for more tapas - why not ?
We visited the Pesquera building - not unlike the English market in Cork - many of the stalls were temporarily shut - after all it was siesta time!
A coffee at the La Plaza de la Constitucion , once used as a bull ring with its striking architecture,
completed a very enjoyable day. We boarded the bus and returned to the hotel.
We chose a restaurant and to our surprise, it was only a 10 minute walk from the hotel. A tasting menu €35 included 5 courses and a half bottle of wine. The quality was unbelievable.. why is this quality not available on the Costa del Sol?
I forgot to photo the starter of a wonderful Gazpacho. The taste of tomato, basil and a cheese, not unlike Parmesan, was delicious. This was followed by fois gras and beans
Followed by cod and scallops
And oxtail
And to complete the meal
Strawberries, mustard ice cream and strawberry coulis . Delicious!!
Tomorrow night, we dine with the monks on more basic fare....
This morning (Saturday), we awoke to 'soft rain' not unlike what we get in Ireland. The temperature had dropped into the teens and the forecast boded ill!! We were lucky with the weather on our 2 day visit.
We set off for The Valley of the Fallen - a monument on a grand scale to honour those who died in the Spanish Civil War. I think the Sat Nav sent us to Cork via Galway!!The only saving grace is that it was all motorway, except that we veered off near our destination to see the countryside and had coffee in a quaint village near Sargovia.
At the entrance to the site, our reservation for the Hospeteria was checked. Our accommodation is in the Benedictine Monastery, built as part of the site.
What a monastery - the Catholic Church supported Franco!! Don't they always support the powers that be ! Why was Maynooth built ??
Franco's mausoleum is situated here in the Basilica. The Basilica is located across an enormous courtyard in front of the monastery.
The Basilica hewn into rock beneath the cross
Entrance door to the Basilica
The breadth of the place is incredible! Franco commenced the building in 1940, a year after the Spanish Civil War ended, ostensively as a tribute to all who died in the war but regarded by the Republicans as a monument to Franco's victory though later Republican victims were also buried there, often without their families permission. It is said many politicalprisoners died building - number undetermined!
The Spanish have not yet come to reconcile what occurred during the civil war. Each side is afraid to open old wounds! There were attempts to remove Franco for burial in Madrid but it caused such an outcry from the Conservative (Facist) side that the attempt was abandoned - temporarily at least. At present he is buried behind the high altar of the Basilica - we visit tomorrow! The Basilica is hewn out of rock and is vast inside. Atop the Basilica is the Cross, which can be seen all over the area. (If interested, one can google Valley of the Fallen, where many articles give the precise information re the Basilica and the Cross!!).
I'm here awaiting dinner at 21.00. The Bar is closed - it only opens from Saturday and Sunday Noon until 1600 hrs - right day but arrival too late!! Well we are in a monastery after all ! We're promised a bottle of Rioja at dinner - here's hoping......
Dinner was acceptable - as one reviewer said the bottle of Rioja smoothed its passage! The clientele were mainly elderly ladies and some religious young people. I would say most were on retreat or stayed frequently as they all appeared to know one another. We were the only non Spaniards there but everyone saluted us and were very polite. No English so my poco Espagnol had to suffice!!
Breakfast was frugal - no juice but a small packet of cornflakes and a roll together with coffee, graced the table.
We packed and set off for the Basilica, the entrance was 500m down the road though another door was opposite the Hospeteria such is the size of the Basilica.
The location is breathtaking! My photograph does not do it justice - situated in a huge parkland, the views from the entrance are stunning.
The entrance was on a grand scale.
As we entered- a nave c 300 m long led to the altar with 6 chapels - three on either side. Franco was buried behind the altar. No photos but I did sneak one to give you an idea of the scale of the place!!
As we left, people are arriving for the 1100 hrs sung Mass - no tourists allowed during services.
We commenced our 51/2 hour journey to San Pedro. The motorway was amazingly quiet as we skirted Madrid and traffic didn't pick up until 1300 hrs. However, the driving was not as difficult as it was on the previous day. The temperature outside as we drove through the Meseta measured 41 degrees.
Midway, we encountered a forest fire It is so dry and so hot that there are signs everywhere warning of the dangers of fire.
The fire was near a road tunnel. Up above helicopters were flying to and fro with buckets of water.
It seemed a hopeless task!!
After a 20 minute delay, the police allowed us to access the tunnel and we were on our way again.
The western side of the Meseta did not appear as barren as the eastern side we drove some years ago. This may have been because we were driving in parts of all four river valleys Duero, Tagus, Guadiana and Quadalquivir.
The hillsides were planted with trees in a very orderly fashion.
We finally completed our 3, 000 km journey and arrived in San Pedro. CC is to be commended as I was of little use!!
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