November 17 - Mdina, Malta and the SE coast

Last night, when we returned to the hotel, there were people doing the tango in the main bar . We had seen them on Tuesday as we arrived at the hotel around midnight. We sat in to watch as some were excellent. It appears they were the Maltese Argentinian society who meet weekly on Sundays but had met on the Thursday  because they had a couple of dancers visiting from Argentina.

Today we started out later after a long day yesterday. We grabbed breakfast on the hoof - a delicious warm croissant oozing with chocolate and warm multi layered pastry filled with a ricotta type cheese. Street food is really excellent here, widely available and cheap. 

We boarded the 53 bus for Mdina - the former capital , prior to the Knights of St John's arrival in 1530, the Turks having taken  their Rhodes' home. The knights based themselves in The Grand Harbour, which became the focus of activity and Mdina declined. The Knights' original site of their settlement had proven difficult to defend against the Turkish Seige of 1565 and were it not for the cunning of the GrandMaster, they  would have been defeated by the Turks. Thus after the seige, Valletta, a defensive site, was chosen as the new capital.  

As we approached Mdina, we saw the walled citadel (medina means wall). We entered the city. It is carefully preserved with tasteful shops and restaurants. 

We walked the ramparts which provided a great view over the surrounding countryside, 

We had lunch in Palazzo de Piro

 

Thereafter we entered Archbishop's Square  and had just entered St Paul's Cathedral (said to be the site where St Paul converted Publius to Christianity in 60 AD) when it was closed to all further visitors as a funeral service was about to commence. I assumed it was someone of importance as numerous  wreaths were being placed on the altar. 

Dear reader you might wonder why St Paul? It appears St. Paul was shipwrecked off Malta in 60AD as he was being taken for trial to Rome where Paul intended to appeal for clemency from Caesar. He stayed three months in Rabat, adjacent to Medina, converting the islanders  to Christianity.

The Church was quite similar to its namesake in Valletta, with the beautiful dome, the knights' graves beneath the marble floor and the numerous side altars

Very well dressed people in black commenced arriving at the church and as we departed the Main Gate, the President  arrived with a slight wave to acknowledge her people. Shortly afterwards the hearse arrived followed by numerous limousines. It would not be the norm, I suspect, to have one's funeral in that Church unless one were of importance. 

We took the 101 bus around the south of the island as it appeared to be very scenic. We were not disappointed as the bus travelled by the coast. The bus driver drove very fast and I had visions of tumbling over the Dinglin Cliffs.  

We passed  Hagar Qim, another Neolitic site - the island abounds with them - an archaeologists' delight. As I had visited on Gozo yesterday, we proceeded to the Blue Grotto, 

akin to the one in Capri and then continued on 101 bus to the Airport where we picked up a bus to Paulo and thence to the picturesque village of Marsaxlokk where lies the largest most colourful fishing fleet in Malta.  The eye on each side of the bow is freshly painted each season to ward off evil out at sea. 

It was late evening and as it was getting a little chilly to eat outside, so we took bus 81 back to Valletta. 

We decided to eat at Guza; number 1 restaurant in Valleta. Unfortunately, as it was Monday night, we erroneously thought that we need not reserve a table. Arriving at the restaurant  at 20.50 we were disappointed to find that a table was not available til 21.30. We walked down Republic St. and discovered Strait St. It was the preserve of the sailors post WW11. It declined when the British fleet left in 1974. Now the street is being revived with some bars, sympathetic to the period architecturally at least, re-opening.

We returned to Guza and had an excellent meal comprising if an amuse bouche of a rabbit (very popular here) to start followed by a very large rabbit cake , which we shared, then a rabbit ragout with home ms pasta - a variety I had never heard of and a penne with dried porcini mushrooms and truffle oil. We finished by sharing the best Tirimisu I have ever eaten. For wine, we were recommended an excellent Chianti from their Italuan selection. Italy, being so close has a major influence on the Maltese particularly their cuisine.  We returned to the Phoenicia immediately outside the main gate.

We had originally wanted some sun and considered Gran Caneria. After some thought, we decided against it and thought of Malta. I knew nothing of it and was pleasantly surprised to find it abounded with interesting sites to be seen and enjoyed. We could have spent longer here quite happily enjoying what we hadn't time to explore - home tomorrow Tuesday - spectacular trip - couldn't recommend Malta more highly.