Sunday 16 November 2014

November 16 - Sliema and the island of Gozo

We had intended to take the ferry to Sliema but as it did not run during the hours of darkness, we had to take the bus. 


I had mentioned to you earlier, dear reader, that after the taxi ride from the airport and the Maltese driving etiquette, I was putting my faith in ferry and bus modes of transport. I was to be alarmed when the crowded bus ( the bus station is conveniently situated 1 minute walk from the hotel) took off and the passengers were being thrown from side to side!! 

We arrived in Sliema and only alighted at the correct place by chance as there were individual stops in town but no mention of Sliema. We headed for a shopping centre namely The Point  ( as aforementioned ) for some retail therapy. It was very upmarket but the shops were international from Armani Jeans to M&S. No damage was done to the bank balance. 

Sliema was the first town to develop as a tourist resort. It was originally a retreat for the citizens of Valletta from the extremely high summer temperatures in the city. 

It has all the hallmarks of the excesses of an unplanned development with the scenic waterfront lined with cheap eateries, serving indifferent food and the promenade lined with stalls selling all types of tours.

As we sat in one of the restaurants a stretched white limo passed, reminiscent of Celtic Tiger days, followed some minutes later by another with the female occupants hollering out the windows at the restaurant patrons sitting by the pavements. We declined an invitation to join a disco cruise!! The Maltese are a refined people so I doubt they were natives!

After imbibing their excellent, inexpensive wine and indifferent pastas, we returned to the welcome sophistication of the UNESCO heritage site of Valletta. 

Having been advised that a visit to Gozo, the second largest island in the group, was a must, this morning we set off on the 41 bus for a 1.15 hour (€1.50 return) journey across country to the nortwest of the island to  Cirkewwa, from whence we boarded the ferry for a 30 minute  (€4.65 return) sailing to Gozo. Thankfully, this bus driver drove in a careful manner - much to my relief. We quitted Valletta by the spectacular 16th century Floriana Gate called Portes des Bombes; built as an outer ring defence for Valletta. We passed through countryside and each small towns we passed appeared to be vying with the next as to who could erect the most impressive church  - these were not churches by our standards but what we might term basilicas or cathedrals; one more spectacular than the next in terms of site and architecture. Malta is a very Catholic country but so is Ireland and each Irish village didn't produce church buildings on such a lavish scale.  






We journeyed on towards the town of Mosta, which is about the half way mark, people embarked and disembarked along the route. 

As we approached Cirkewwa, we hugged the coast along St. Paul's Bay and Mehieha Bay, where people were sunbathing in mid November! 


Arriving at Cirkewwa, we had only minutes to wait for the ferry to Gozo. 

After a 30 minute crossing we arrived in Gozo. 




We had been advised that the most efficient method of seeing the island was to take a 'Hop on Hop Off' bus. We took a bus across the island 30 minutes to Zwegra where my geographer/ geology colleagues will appreciate an excellent example of a sea arch and the unusual geological formations visible in the area. 


From there we adjourned to Ta ' Pinu where the church is a great centre of pilgrimage, 


thence back to Rabat/ Victoria , the capital, which sports a citadel and thence to two beaches; Xiendi to the south and Malsanforn Bay to the north. The highlight of the trip was a visit to thecGgantija temples; a UNESCO heritage Neolithic site, which was most sensitively presented and because of the time of year, I was the only visitor bar one exiting as I entered. It appears it is one of the most visited sites in Malta so it must be thronged in high season. 





We continued to Ramla Bay - one path leads to Calypso's cave said to be the site of Homer's Odyssey, (read my Orient Express blog!) where Ulysses was held captive by the nymph Calypso, another village by the coast, exhibiting spectacular scenery. 


We  returned to the ferry terminal at Mgarr.


We had minutes to ferry sailing and we marvelled at how smoothly the day had gone only to have to wait 30 minutes for the return bus to Valletta. As we waited, we wondered if we'd get on the bus as the ferry passengers arrived at the bus stop in drives but mercifully a number if busses arrived together and the crowd dissipated as to our relief we not only managed to board the bus but to get a seat for the 1.15 hour journey back to Valletta in darkness.

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