Our driver was awaiting us as we went to the hotel exit to meet him. All modes of transport are very punctual here.
There are temples everywhere, we even had our own temples by the hotel.
From the 11th to the 13th century, more than 4000 temples were commissioned. The crumbling structures are all that remains of the grand city of Began. Authorities cannot agree as to what brought about its demise.
The standard of restoration has been poor but historically the temples have always been poorly patched up as temples periodically suffer, being in an earthquake zone. Following the 1975 earthquake, UNESCO spent US$1million on restoration. During the mid 1990s, wealthy locals and some foreigners sponsored the restoration under the auspices of the government. The 2016 earthquake that struck Central Myanmar measured 6.8 on the Richter scale damaged numerous Bagan temples but no one died here. After the earthquake, UNESCO officials returned to work with locals on repair works.
Old Bagan, with its numerous temples dotting the landscape is hugely impressive.
Three towns make up what is broadly termed Bagan. Coming from the Ferry port the towns are New Bagan, Old Bagan and Nyaung-U. We stayed at New Bagan.
I chose an itinerary - there is little point trying to visit all. We drove to the furthest point, past Old Bagan to Nyaung-U, to visit Shwe zi gone Pagoda (the buildings with the gold spires). This is the town’s main religious site.
The gilded zedi sits on three gilded ascending terraces.
At the Four cardinal points are stairways (closed)
a Buddha at each.
At the entrance to the Eastern stairway was a footprint embedded in concrete with filled with water to allow former monarchs to look st the reflection of the hti without tipping their heads backwards and having their crown fall off.
Above some of the compromised Buddhas
The highlight was:
This is a spectacular working temple
The entrance is through very impressive teak doors
At each of the cardinal points a Buddha is located- north and south are original - east and west were lost in the fire of 1600 and are replacements in a later style. To commemorate its 900th anniversary, the temple spires were gilded. The remainder is whitewashed.
It is the most revered of all Bagan Temples. The temple and its vast courtyard is awe inspiring! It is so vast that I couldn’t initially find where I had entered to reclaim my shoes but one of the numerous vendors kindly obliged and pointed me in the right direction.
We continued through the walls of Old Bagan, through the Tharabar Gate to Thatbyinyu reputedly Baganda highest temple - 207ft. in height. Some scholars believe the temple was never consecrated because of the absence of plaques which would have show scenes from Jataka.
This is an example of Bagan’s Middle period, architecturally.
Architecturally, it illustrates the end of the early period and the commencement of the middle period. Again it’s inner passages off limits due to earthquake damage!
Our guide was rather taciturn and at this point though it was only 17:00, he wanted to take us nearby to view the sunset!!! The sunset was timed for 17:50!!
I told him that I wished to visit one more temple nearby and I didn’t mind if I missed the sunset as I had seen many already! Dear reader how many have I shown you to date ?
He drove us to:
where having de shodded myself once more, I entered the temple At this stage CC had opted out - he was templed out!!)
As I entered, a young man (about10 years old volunteered to be my guide) l. He was delighted to be photographed!
His English was impeccable! In fact the younger they are the better their English. It was difficult to understand our driver’s strong accent. My ‘guide’ was very self assured, bright as a button and very knowledgeable about the Temple. I had read up on it prior to my visit and what he told me was accurate. We walked along, pointing out the one Buddha to be seen and that all the others were all bricked up, the tremendous height of the ceilings, the arm sized grooves, where workers who failed to fit stones together so accurately that even a pin couldn’t pass between them had their arms chopped off ! Il spare you the picture!! King Narathu had built the temple to atind for his sins - he smothered his father and brother to death and executed one of his wives, an Indian princess for practising Hindu rituals. He himself was later assassinated - this may be only a colorful legend.!!
He pointed out the Twin Buddha’s (my guide had me so absorbed as he recounted their history, I omitted to take a photo - and it’s the only temple with twin Buddha’s!!
No restoration work has commenced on this temple . perhaps because of its bad karma.
As we walked the vast corridors,
an official guide looked with amusement at me and my young guide as we both continued our tour pretending not to notice!!
At the conclusion, he asked me if I would come to his shop? I replied that I had only a small case and I couldn’t fit anymore souvenirs. He shook most graciously shook my hand and said ‘ thank you’ , Now here was my dilemma - I wanted to give him something but if I give him too much, it will encourage him to come here and skip school. I remembered when we were travelling in Africa, for the same reason, we were asked not to give the children money but to donate to one of the Charities. I gave him a small donation. Given the chance, that young boy will go far.
We were then driven to view the sunset - not another you may cry.
Dusk with numerous temples on the plain
As we drove back to New Bagan and the hotel, darkness had fallen and we passed a stunning pagoda lighting the night sky.
Another great day ..
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