2015 February 21

It's our final day here in Rome. I am not feeling too well. We stayed around the hotel and we left for the airport. 

Though we were 'under the weather' and I was pickpocketted, we enjoyed the trip. The people we encountered were for the most part extremely pleasant and helpful - from the people who directed us to the underground passage in the Underground, to Firenze where an extremely pleasant  female, police officer on the Piazza dell Duomo, directed us to Casa Medici, to the ticket checkers, who facilited our earlier return train to Rome, to the obliging owner at the Trattoria - more impressive in cities teeming with visitors. 

There was a very high security, particularly in Firenze. One was screened  entering many buildings. It appears the Italians are very concerned at the collapse of Libya and that Isis may use it as a base to attack Mediterranean countries. Army and police were very visible but their presence did not intrude on one's enjoyment of the cities. 

2015 February 21 Firenze

I was  PICK POCKETTED in Flrenze ( Florence) !!!!! First time ever in more than 40 years of travel!!

If it's Saturday , it must be Firenze. We departed Termini Station on the 0920 train to Firenze.

It took 11/2 hrs; and the train was doing on average 240 /245  per hour. It was a very smooth journey. We passed through a number of tunnels as we went through the Appenines. 

As we arrived at our destination, it had commenced raining. It was forecasted but luckily for us it stopped quickly. 

We repaired to the Tourist Information office, just to the left of the terminal,  and got a very useful map of the city. The tourist official said that the city was walkable which indeed it was. 

We repaired first to the famous cathedral, down  Piazza dell  Unita dItalia, 

down Via de Panzani over Via Ceretani and into Piazza Duomo. 

There was a small queue but we entered the cathedral within minutes. It was spectacular. 

The nearby Museo was closed for renovations and will be close til the Autumn. 

You can climb to the top of the above 414 steps and no lift so as my PC was still 'under the weather', we declined the view. 

It was lunchtime, so we repaired to a small Trattoria on a side street. It was obviously a popular local haunt but the owner assured us that we would we seated in 5 minutes. PC had a dish similar to Boeuf Bourginon and I had the usual Totellini. The only wine was Vino de la Casa and though white was on the list, everyone appeared to be drinking a half carafe of red wine, so we went native. We concluded lunch with a chocolate tart for me - delicious and a homemade, and Tiramisu for PC . Two expressos completed a very enjoyable meal. 

We continued our tour to see the Chapelle Medici, a spectacular church, ensure  you arrive no later than 1320 or you will not be admitted. 

As one enters:

which houses the tombs of the Medicis, sculpted by Michelangelo, and two of his drawings; unfortunately, before completion as he repaired to Rome to work for the Pope. 

From there, we went to palazzo Medici Ricardo with its chapel, vestibule - a mini version of the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles and no less  lavish   

We proceeded to Ponte Vecchio

passed 

another Medici palace, now the Town Hall and on to Ponte Vecchio, on the Arno, reminiscent of the Rialto bridge in Venezia (Venice) 

We decided to go back to the railway station and see if we could take an earlier  train back to Roma. We had booked on the 2020 and it was now 1900. I had the train E ticket on my mobile and earlier in the day, I had written details on a sheet of paper in case I ran out of charge. However, as I had not got the booking reference written down, they couldn't help us. Both ticket checkers were so  apologetic. Then I saw that one of the ticket checker had his I phone 5 on charge, so I asked him if I could use it ? He agreed. As the phone was dead, it took a few minutes to charge up, I gave him the reference. He quickly stuffed  two tickets into our hands and told us to run and that the staff on the train would find us seats . Running down the platform, we jumped on, just as the official was about to close the door. Having secured the door,  he told us we could sit in any vacant seats,  as the train would not be stopping again until it reached Rome. We wouldn't have made it except for the fact that it was running 5 minutes late but the later train we are supposed to take was running an hour late so thankfully we arrived in Roma at 2100 instead of 2200 and as that train was delayed the ETA was 2300

It was a relief, as I had been feeling cold all day. We arrived back at the hotel and decided to call it a day. The lunch was so good, and I suspect the fact that the two of us were not up to par, we didn't feel hungry and so we repaired to our room. 

2015 February 20 Roma day 2

We breakfasted at the hotel (included) There was a wide selection of juices, cereals, bacon, scrambled egg and sausage, croutons, cold meats, cheese and pickled herring. 

After breakfast we left the hotel and walked 5 minutes down Via Cavour to the Coleseum, 

where for a February morning there was an enormous queue to enter. As I had been to Rome many times previously,  I was delighted not to have to join the queue. It was a bright crisp morning as we continued down Via del Fori, past the Forum (more queues) past underground C now under construction - to be completed in 89 months!! ( presently there are only two lines: A and B) 

As we strolled along, there was a lot of street entertainment 

We arrived at Piazza Venezia where we espied the impressive statue of Victorio Emanuele 

and thence to the shopping street Via Corso 

where I did a little damage with the credit card. My PC and I diverted to see the Trevi Fountain, disappointed to find that there were no fountains to be seen but still plenty of tourists (no doubt their guides were telling them that they saw it at an unusual time, which reminded me of going to Ayers Rock in the 1970s and instead of seeing the sunset on the red sandstone rock, we saw it with the rain streaming down - a very rare occurrence according to our guide and when I returned with the family in 1999, I nearly had a repeat experience but just before sunset the skies cleared and the sun came out. The latter time, the experience was compromised  by the noise of helicopters hovering about - no such distractions on the first visit) and there was scaffolding everywhere on the Trevi Fountain!! 

We retraced our steps to Via Corso and turned into Via Condotti, 

the ultimate shopping experience with all the big names Dior, Gucci, Burberry, Jimmy Choo etc - they were all there on quite a short via. Serious damage was done to the credit card - you believe me, don't you dear reader? 

We stopped at magnificent coffee shop 

Caffe Greco  established 1760 and partook of their delicious cakes.

At the end of the street was the Spanish steps. 

We turned right into Via Due Macelli, on to Via  Tritone, Via Barberini, right into Via Firenze til we reached the Teatro dell Opera 

and across the street stood our out chosen restaurant  for tonight Trattoria Matriciana

And on to Termini - the main bus station where on the far side of Termini was Via Marsala where we were to get a bus to 

Castel  Romano, an excellent outlet with all the big brands you find on Via Condotti - 45 minutes by bus from Rome (€13) return. 

As we were purchasing tickets, I asked for a return and the ticket seller understood that to mean that I only wanted the return leg of the journey and asked me how o was getting out there? He spoke excellent English but the vagaries of usage. A young Chinese guy was listening to our conversation and was perplexed so I had  to explain my understanding of a 'return ticket' to him also. 

On Via  Marsala, we moticed the Ryan Air airport coach which is €6 one way to airport, so if unlike us, you coach to and from the airport, either buy the return ticket on board Ryan Air or at the airport on arrival  (€8 return). 

We took the 1500 hrs bus to Castel Romano and arrived there at 1545. We 'shopped til we dropped' and took the last bus the 2000hrs back to Termini and arrived punctually at 2045hrs, walked the 5 minutes to the restaurant and arrived early at 2050 for a 2100 booking. 

We were seated immediately. This is one of the oldest Trattoria in Roma, established in 1870. It had a very pleasant ambience with many dining en famille.  Unfortunately, we weren't that hungry and my PC has not been feeling well since our arrival - so antipasti was foregone 

and for main course PC had Escalope of Veal with lemon and spinach and I had Tortellini with Porcini  mushrooms and an Italian cheese I regret that, as it was not known to me, I have forgotten its name, together with a delicious artichoke. We imbibed a half bottle of white for PC and as usual a half of red for me with a bottle of San Pelegrino,; the Italians are very loyal to this brand. 

We had to forgo dessert 

as C was exhausted, we taxied back to the hotel - a  5 minute ride. An early night as we leave Termini for Firenze ( Florence) tomorrow morning. 

2015 February 19th Roma

Just arrived in Roma on 1630 flight from Dublin - though it was a late arrival, I can't take these red eye flights any longer. Rome is one hour ahead - so the three hour flight arrived at 2030. 

Ryan Air were selling a bus directly to Termini station (Rome's main train station) at €4. It was ok as we noticed that others at the airport were charging €3.90

We decided to go native and take the local bus 2 to station and then take the train to Termini. While we had to wait for the bus, the direct bus (Ryan Air) was very slow in loading and some passengers had to await another bus. Once we left on bus 2, we  caught a train immediately and were in Termini in c 15 minutes. I think we beat the bus and if it were rush hour the train would definitely have been speedier.  

The bus / train was slightly cheaper €1.20 and €1.50 respectively. As dear constant follower you are aware, using these means of transport has nothing to do with cost but rather with my present companion's (PC) interest in public transport more especially trains. ( remember the late Hugh Leonard always spoke of his present wife, even though he had only one!)

On arrival in Termini, we continued the exploration of the public transport theme by taking the metro B line one stop to Cavour station. On arrival, we exited on Via Cavour, turned left crossed the road, took a downward flight of steps  and c 100 metres in front of us was the hotel Duca D'Alba a 4 star, historic hotel in the heart of old Rome, at c €80 per night - great value for Rome . 

On checking in, we were taken to an annex.  I was a little dubious  but on entering the room I was pleasantly surprised - the room was small but beautifully appointed with quality bed linen. However, if you can't cope with about 10 steps up to lift, insist on staying in main hotel. 

As it was  now 22.15, we quickly adjourned to a nearby restaurant, where because of the late hour, our choice was confined to the Chef's menu. My PC had meatballs and potatoes - very tasty while I endured an indifferent risotto with porcini mushrooms. This was washed down with a very acceptable house wine - a Montepulciano D'Abruzxo at a welcome 121/2 % unlike many Italian wines we get at home which are up to 17% and of course a bottle of San Pelegrino. The clientele was Italian and they appear to favour SP. 

There was a young man sitting next to us. I thought he was Italian but when he asked the owner how to ask for the bill in Italian,  I asked him where he was from? He was Argentinian and had spent the last 25 days in Europe. He had visited Paris,  Madrid, Barcelona, Amsterdam, Berlin, Zurich, Prague and was returning to Buenos Aires via Madrid in two days time. He informed us that he loved Europe with it diversity of cultures contained in such a small area and bemoaned the fact that once one left the Euro area it was so expensive He found Switzerland  extremely  expensive but Prague was inexpensive. He was very interested to hear that we had visited Argentina and we chatted about the places we had visited and he suggested further areas such as Mendoza; the wine region as places of interest for future visits - he obviously got our measure!!

As we left the restaurant,  he was checking with the restaurant owner as to the location of some bar - the youth don't differ except they don't appear to use drink to excess.